Remember while changing the points, you don't put the "hot" points wire on the ground side of the points when installing the new ones. Just thought I'd throw that in.
Pull the vacuum advance hose off the distributor. Plug the hose with a golf Tee. Turn the crank until you see what WayneC has described. Dwelling the points is the way to go though. But if you can't, make sure you set the feeler gauge in between the point gap without the guage being lose, or when you do put the guage in between the points, make sure you have a slight drag to it. The slight drag should not open the points even more when you finally tighthen the screw. It will take awhile to get that gap where the guage is not lose and the points won't open when you push the feeler guage in between the points for the final check.
Then mark your static timing mark on the timing chain cover, and the line stamped on the balancer with white chalk.
Loosen the distributor bolt so you can move the dist. shaft kind of hard, but not easy enough where you can watch the dist. vibrate and walk on it's own when the engine is running.
Watch your timing marks and see if they lined up on the balancer/static mark as the car idles. If by luck they didn't line up, move the distributor (either way) until you have this setting fixed on their marks. Tighten the dist. bolt. Go back and see if the marks moved. If they didn't, you now have the ignition set. Start the car once again. You should just have to tap the ignition key. It should fire right up. Keep the timing light still connected to the engine.
Now install the vacuum advance hose back on the distributor. Start the car and rev it up a few times. Did you see the advance movement on the balancer when you pointed the timing light at the static mark? If you saw full advance and it returned close to the marks at idle, you have a good advance diaphram. You are done with the ignition system.
You are now ready for the carb/idle adjustment.
