Power Steering Control Valve

[minifridge1138]

Hello everyone,

I am hoping to replace my PS Control Valve this weekend. I have read the instructions and the Service manual, but still have a few questions from people that have actually done this before.

1) If I don't use a wedge or a fork, how can I remove the control valve stud from the pitman arm?
2) What is the best way to flush the system?
3) The install instructions do not mention greasing the control valve. Does that mean i should NOT grease it? I ruined my old one by over-greasing it and don't want to do that again.
4) In the adjustment procedure, i'm supposed to remove the aluminum end cap from the valve assembly and adjust the lock nut. I don't see the aluminum end cap? Where is it?
5) is there any trick or tip that might make this job easier?

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

1) can't help you there without the proper tools.
2) it doesn't need to be flushed, just filled and purged of air by turning the steering from lock to lock then checking the level and refilling as required.
3) never ever grease a control valve. not one drop
4) it's on the blunt end and looks like a mini wheel bearing cap. It can be pried off with a screwdriver
5) read the chassis manual.

 

[Yoda]

Here are the instructions that came with the replacement unit I purchased from VetteBrakes.. ahumm a few years ago.

For me the pickle fork, didn't work, by itself... but with a little HEAT (torch) and the fork, it came right off Yep I had ma down there with the fire extinggy just incase I got really Stupid

Check out:
Instructions Page 1
Instructions Page 2
Instructions Page 3
If the instructions are difficult to read, enlarge them a bit

At one point during the installation I tried to preserve the paper with a shot of Power Steering Fluid

Bud

 

[minifridge1138]

i can buy a fork. It is just that the instructions said not to.
Any idea what the "proper" puller they refer to is?

I'm going to replace all of the hoses too, so that should help with the "flush".

I see the "cap" you're talking about. It doesn't look like it comes off, but i'll take a screw driver too it and see what happens.... wish me luck.

any other thoughts/suggestions will be appreciated.

THANKS!

 

[Yoda]

Take another look at item 4 on Instructions Page 1 (Section: "Removal")

It mentions "Pickle Fork or Ball Joint Removal Tool"

Bud

 

[minifridge1138]

ok, i'll buy a fork.
My instructions said NOT to use a fork because it may damage the old control valve. Oh well!

Thanks for your help everyone!

 

[GTR1999]

The problem with using the fork is it usually rips the rubber boot. If you plan on replacing the valve then no problem but if you were going to remove the steering box then you wouldn't want to damage the boot. They make smal 2 jaw pullers that fit and will not damage the boot. Some parts stores rent tools and you may find one there as well.
Some things I've found working with these:

• Boot gets ripped
• Valve doesn't unscrew because the last installet rolled the threads. Be sure to remove the pinch bolt.
• Rebuilt valves have some QC issues so be careful and make sure all is well with the new one.
• Check your AIM there is a gap spec when installing the valve on the centerlink.
• rebuilt valves should be balanced but some are not. Do not put your hand through the window and steering wheel for the first startup. If not balanced it will rapidly shift back/forth.
• follow the bleeding and balancing procedures
• GOOD LUCK

 

[minifridge1138]

I'm not sure which rubber boot you're talking about, but i'll look for it next time i'm under the car.

It is a rebuilt one. How can i make sure "all is well"?

I was planning on being in the car the first time i started it.

Thanks for the tips!

 

[GTR1999]

A lot of complaints I heard with some of the rebuilt ones are leaks and slop. You'll know if there is a problem. If not balance it will pull to one side or the other giving one side super sensitive steering.

 

[minifridge1138]

The pulling to one side/sensitivity you mentioned, isn't that what is adjustable?

 

[petes74ttop]

Hi again, Yoda's instructions are just what you need.
You can borrow the pickle fork from the auto store.
In #3 the boot is below the nut in the picture at the top, on the left is the cap that you have to pop off to get to the adjustment nut.
Leave the piston rod disconnected from the frame.
When turning the balance nut do it very SLOWLY untill the piston just moves, then turn the other way SLOWLY untill the piston just moves the other way. Then turn turn the nut midway.
Then push the piston in enough to insert it into the frame mount.
It's way easier than it sounds.
Last thing, get some flare wrenches so you don't round off the hose nuts. PG.

 

[GTR1999]

Yes. It should be all set but just be aware of it.

 

[petes74ttop]

One last thing, you'll most likely need an alignment, PG.

 

[wishuwerehere82]

One last thing, you'll most likely need an alignment, PG.

Why? You're not changing any of the alignment points( Camber, Caster, or Toe) when you replace the steering control valve. It's just the linkage between the pitman arm and the steering rack. If it goes back in the way the original one came out, the steering wheel angle wil not even be changed.

 

[petes74ttop]

When I screwed the control valve on to the relay rod the cv bottomed out with the ball socket facing the rear of the car. at 1/4 turn out the ball socket was in the up position, but at 1&1/4 turn out the gap was too large. This thru out my toe, and that's why you might need an alignment. PG.

 

[KOPBET]

ok, i'll buy a fork.
My instructions said NOT to use a fork because it may damage the old control valve. Oh well!

I used one of these.

I hate swinging a large hammer. I tend to miss more than I hit. :bash Actually a bit easier too.

As mentioned, use flare wrenches and start with the smaller fitting on top. If you do the larger fitting first it may interfere with the flare wrench on the smaller one. Don't over-torque the hose fittings. They will split the aluminum hoses and leak, and cost you another $25. hnoes


You cannot go wrong here: http://classiccorvetteparts.vstore.ca/

 

[Wayne robson]

best tool

this is the best and correct tool

 

[minifridge1138]

hey everyone,

I got the new valve in, but it seems to be leaking a little bit.
It doesn't appear to be leaking out of a hose or a hose fitting. It looks like it is leaking where the adapter housing mates to the valve housing.

Is there anything there i am supposed to tighten?

 

[wishuwerehere82]

If it leaks, they didn't rebuild it right.
Take it back and get another one.

 

[minifridge1138]

actually, i took a better look today and it was coming out of a hose fitting. I tightened it a bit and put some thread sealant on it.

Hopefully the problem is solved.

Thanks for your help!