Power Window Problems

[Mark'syellow80]

Hello Everyone,

Well I just had her repainted (it took five weeks; but she looks GREAT!!) and on the drive home last week I was feeling real good driving her when the problems started!! Nothing too serious...I heard this strange intermittent squal/grind noise and pulled into the drive and raised the hood. After a couple minutes listening and watching...........I thought .....I KNOW that noise.....water pump going bad!! Shut her off and looked on the floor.....small puddle of anitfreeze! Replaced the water pump (which was actually real bad) and while I was in there......replaced the AIR pump, power steering pump and all the belts. Now on to the problem at hand.

I did a search on the power window topic and got some good info but here is my problem: the power windows will go up and down when they want to! Hit the drivers side switch the window may or may not go up or down.....same for the passenger side window. Keep playing with the switches.....may or may not work....totally random. When they do work the windows go up and down pretty fast like they always did. I am hoping that it is just the switches but I am wondering why they both would go bad at the same time?? Are they interconnected somehow that if one goes bad they both will not work? Or is it more likely that the relay is the culprit? I am certain that I am not the only one who has had this problem! Just want everyones opinion before I tear the console apart. Thanks to all!!

MARK

 

[slyone1000]

Used to have the same problem..........It turns out, it was the wiring going through the door, If the wiring is original.....opening and closing the door over all theses years wears it out. After I replaced the wire from the Kick Panel to the Motor. It has been fine.

 

[jdp6000]

The other possiblity is the connections. The one that attachs to the motor sometimes goes bad. You can check by removing the door panels and the access plate at the bottom of the doors.

Jim

 

[wishuwerehere82]

Mark,

I had exactly the same problem with my 82 for a long time until I bought new switches. Along the way I had repaired both plug-in connectors on which the wires were hanging on by 1 strand. But the problem didn't get fixed until I spent $40.00 for new switches. No problem since.

And you don't need to tear the console apart, just the doors.

P.S. I'm still enjoying the Carlisle video you sent me last fall!

 

[JohnZ]

It's unlikely that both switches or both motors would go bad simultaneously; the only common point is the power window relay - if it's bad, you'll get exactly the same response no matter which switch you use. When you push the switch, that circuit only operates a relay - the relay then feeds power to the motors. The only other common point is the 30-amp circuit breaker between the relay and the motors.

 

[wishuwerehere82]

1 relay for both motors or 2 separate relays operating off 2 separate switches?

 

[Mark'syellow80]

Thanks for the advice so far. I ordered two new switches to start with. I will try that first then go from there.

Pete, You said that you replaced the switches and the problem went away.....when you said you repaired the wires did you mean the connectors at the window motors? You confused me when you said I didnt have to take the console apart just the doors? Educate me on what you meant.

Also I read on a different post that there is only one relay for both windows and it is under the console as well. I could have misread that though.

I am also now wondering when I had the car repainted if they could have done something by accident to the door wiring for the windows? I know they had the doors apart and the glass out so they could remove the mirrors, door handles and locks before painting. Didnt have this problem before I took the car for painting!!

MARK

MARK

 

[wishuwerehere82]

Mark,

I would suspect a bad ground or loosened connector on the doors if they painted it. That could be the problem if they took the doors off the paint it.

 

[Mark'syellow80]

Update

Put the new window switches in tonight. When I hooked up the wires to the new switches I checked both windows before I put the console back together. BOTH worked FINE....up and down....up and down...up and down!! Great...problem solved!! Buttoned back up the console and thought I'd take her out for a ride. Got in, fired her up and NEITHER window would work!!! I sat there in total amazement....did I forget something....no...so I thought I would check the 30 amp breaker for the windows on the fuse panel. The breaker is the little silver box type....reached up to pull it and it was so HOT it burned the tip of my index finger!! I got it out and went to NAPA for a new one figuring this HAS to be the problem. Put the new one in............nothing. Windows still dont work and the new one was getting hot too. That has to tell me something? I also checked every fuse....what a pain in the A$&. All were good and I am at a total loss now.

I checked the catalogs for a relay and it appears that the relay was used up to 1978? I couldnt find one for a 1980. Any advice would be appreciated. If there is a relay I dont know where it is or what it looks like.

Pete, he didnt take the doors off...just the glass out so he could remove the mirrors and door locks/handles.

I am now looking through my assembly manual for help.

 

[wishuwerehere82]

Pinched wire in the console area? Isn't that the way it always goes? Works fine with everything ripped apart, but as soon as you clean it up, Nothing. Reverse the process to cure the problem, and rub a rabbits foot, throw salt over your left shoulder with your right hand and spit 3 times.:L

 

[jdp6000]

I agree with Wish....you pinched something.

Jim

 

[Mark'syellow80]

I just looked through the wiring diagrams in my assembly manual and I can find a relay for everything EXCEPT the power windows. I am thinking that the 30 amp fuse/breaker must have replaced an actual relay in 79 and newer. So you guys think that if I may have pinched a wire it would cause a short and therefore the HOT 30 amp fuse/breaker? That is what is getting me....why was that so HOT? There was plenty of clearance under the console when I reassembled it and it is not like you are really tightening it that much.....the console is plastic. I guess I will become an expert at removing the console!! I know exactly where all the screws are................and I swear half the car is metric and half standard!!

 

[jdp6000]

My book shows a 35 amp breaker and NO relay. I would think the 82 is similar to the 80.

It looks fairly basic. One fuse, 2 switches, 2 motors. Just to be on the safe side check the wiring.

Jim

 

[Mark'syellow80]

Thanks Jim, I am going to order the switch plug pigtails and replace the wires under the console at the switches. Somehow something is shorted out causing the breaker on the fuse panel to get hot when under power and using the switches. Since they worked fine before I tightened down the console I am thinking maybe it is the switch wire connections that are intermittently going bad on me. Doesnt make sense why they worked fine several times before I tightened down the console!


MARK

 

[cscarlson]

had the same problem... turned out that i changed both wiring harnesses.. fairly cheap and easy.. good luck

 

[Mark'syellow80]

Problem Solved!

OK Guys listen up cause this is a good one...........I was convinced that there was a short somewhere because of the 30 amp breaker getting so hot; so I wanted to see if the short was only when the switches were used or if it was all the time when the ignition was on. So I turned the key to the on position and DIDN'T touch the window switches. Put my finger on the breaker in the fuse panel and it immediately started to warm up..........short has nothing to do with switch operation.

Removed the side console panels so I could look under the console by the bottom of the switches. Now this is hard to believe but it was the problem...there is a small bolt that comes from UNDER the car thru the metal floor board under the console....(the bolt holds a small clamp on the cable from the battery to the starter) the end of this bolt lined up PERFECTLY with one of the electrical posts from the drivers side window switch that goes thru the electrical plug connector. The bolt BARELY touched the post from the switch. So I turned the key to the on position and moved the console a little and sure enough it arced out!! Raised the console more and windows up..windows down!!! NO problem. So I got the DREMEL out and cut off a few threads from the bolt. Now I have 1/4" clearance and the windows work!! Explains why the new swithces worked before I tightend the console and why the breaker got so hot with the key on.

Hopefully this troubleshooting will help others someday!! That is what this forum is all about right?

Thanks guys......I will post some pics soon......now on to the next issue with her!!!!

MARK

 

[wishuwerehere82]

Good find!

As a famous CAC'er would say.
Put some tape on it!
Don't you love doing your own work? Imagine how many months a dealership would have kept your Vette and charged you how many dollars..