Power Window Problems

[Fun81]

Hello all. I've been ebjoying this forum for a while, and finally decided to log in.

I have a beautiful 1981, completely original with only 26,000 miles. Recently the drivers side power window stopped working. I don't believe it's the switch, so it's either the regulator or the motor. Or perhaps it's just jammed. When I press the switch, the ammeter jumps, but there is no sound in the door, and no movement of the window (which is luckily frozen in the closed positon).

I've heard this is a difficult fix, and I'm wondering if I should just bring it in to a shop to have the work done. Is this a do it yourself job for someone with basic mechanical skills? How much can I plan on spending if I have the work done at a shop?

 

[1974vette]

this too happened to my 74. when i would press the switch, the ammeter would move but the window wouldnt. a year before this i had replaced the motor and regulator so i decided to check the switch first. when i got to the switch, it was corroded. i cleaned the corrosion and voila! my windows worked...may not be the case in your problem but just thought i'd try and help.

 

[Tritium007]

Fun81,

Welcome, glad you decided to jump into the forum. I recently had the very same problem on my '81 except that my window was down. The guidance I got here seemed a little crazy, but it worked and the logic makes sense. I just didn' think I would be lucky enough for that easy a fix. Anyway, these very old power window motors accumulate quite a bit of carbon as the brushes wear with use over the years. Sometimes this carbon can create grounds if too much builds up inside the motor armature. Here's a simple thing you can try first before taking it to the shop. Remove the interior door panel. Now this next part may require an additional hand, so your significant other or drinking buddy (if you're lucky, that's the same person) can lend a hand. While operating the window switch in the down direction, manually apply some slight downward pressure to the window while at the same time tapping the metal motor casing slightly with a tool of choice ( a hammer works well). This can jar loose that pesky carbon dust and get electrical continuity restored to the motor windings. This worked for me and I haven't had a problem with the window for months now. Good luck!

Mike

 

[Fun81]

Super! It sure is worth a try before I try to pull the door panel off.

I haven't pulled the inside console skirt off yet, but it looks pretty easy.

Thanks for the reply!

 

[Sensei]

This may or may not work, but for some reason, my window occasionally won't roll down with the door closed. If I open the door a bit and start the window down, it will go the rest of the way down, and back up with the door closed. It's like the angle of the window with the door closed somehow breaks the connection. Wierd!

 

[bill81vette]

This may or may not work, but for some reason, my window occasionally won't roll down with the door closed. If I open the door a bit and start the window down, it will go the rest of the way down, and back up with the door closed. It's like the angle of the window with the door closed somehow breaks the connection. Wierd!

sounds like you may have a wire getting pinched in the door when it closes..

bill

 

[goingballistic]

Check the switch with a voltmeter across the switch. Open and close the switch in the ohms position and see if you go from open to closed ( zero ohms to infinity) if the switch appears to be OK check the voltage to see if the switch is passing 12 volts to the motor. If it is, check the motor to see if it's getting 12 volts. If the motor is getting voltage and not spinning it's a good bet it's the motor, the ammeter jump may be from the motor binding, hence the large current draw.

 

[srs244]

Check the switch with a voltmeter across the switch. Open and close the switch in the ohms position and see if you go from open to closed ( zero ohms to infinity) if the switch appears to be OK check the voltage to see if the switch is passing 12 volts to the motor. If it is, check the motor to see if it's getting 12 volts. If the motor is getting voltage and not spinning it's a good bet it's the motor, the ammeter jump may be from the motor binding, hence the large current draw.

while you didn't mention it, from your description it can be assumed that the other window is functioning ok. if so, and if you DON'T have a meter, JUST SWITCH OUT THE 2 WINDOW SWITCHES. very simple first step to check the switch out. also keep in mind that the 2 window switches run through the power window regulator (it is mounted just in front of the shifter under the console cover). if switching the actual switches doesn't change anything, take a meter to the relay to see if you are getting power to it in the different switched positions. if you are (and the switch switch didn't work, lol) you have a problem more likely inside the door. remember just as mentioned above regarding corrosion on the switch, if your motor wire contacts are corroded, you will also have a problem. needless to say, that would be the best scenario.

steve

 

[srs244]

This may or may not work, but for some reason, my window occasionally won't roll down with the door closed. If I open the door a bit and start the window down, it will go the rest of the way down, and back up with the door closed. It's like the angle of the window with the door closed somehow breaks the connection. Wierd!

if your door was a bit out of line, (or your weatherstripping was installed a bit out of line toward the outboard side) you may have just a bit too much pressure on the window from the weatherstripping causing it to bind some. will the window go all the way up with the door completely closed?? if so, i cast my vote for the pinched wire (probably within the rubber loom boot between the door itself and the jam). if not, the door, or stripping alignment might be the culprit.

just my 2 cents worth, however.

steve

 

[Fun81]

Thanks for the help, everyone!


I'll do a little investigating and let you know what I find.

 

[Eric]

Fun81,

I merged your two threads together into one so all the replies can be seen by everyone. Hope the info everyone has given helps you out.

Regards,

 

[Fun81]

Well, thanks again to all who have responded. Today I took my first step. I pulled apart the console to look at the switches first. The vette scored first blood (literally). I've read several posts indicating it was worth taking the seats out first, but I thought that might be too much work. Now I can see why it might be worth the trouble.

Anyway, I successfully pulled the parking brake cover and the trim plate apart, and gained access to the switches. I tried swapping the switches out, and both switches worked on the passenger window. But the driver's side window was still dead, and activating either switch on that side still showed a drop in the ammeter.

So tomorrow, I guess I'll pull the door panel and try checking the motor connections...even tapping on the motor as suggested above.

Any other suggestions??

I'll keep you all posted on my progress.

 

[wishuwerehere82]

Remember, there are no clips holding the door panel on. If the panel is not coming loose from the door, you haven't found all the screws yet.

 

[Fun81]

Thanks for all the help everyone.

I just had the door panel off, and sure enough, the hammer trick worked!!! While I was at it, I greased up all the moving parts and cleaned the electrical connection.

Everything seems to be working fine now...except for the radio. It seems I shorted out the power locks when I pulled the wire off the back of the switch. One 20 amp fuse and I should be good to go.

I never would have been able to do any of this without the help of this forum.

Thank you!