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Prep fpr paint

  • Thread starter Thread starter ltmark
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ltmark

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I have an '85 that needs paint. I bought it 10+ years ago and the paint was perfect (orig Red). However, after waxing more times than I like to think, the paint was noteably thin and I could see through it. I began sanding and discovered that the seller (West Coast Corvettes) in california, apparently had sprayed it, lightly, since the original owner lived on the ocean and the salt probable took it's toll. The exterior color was slightly more red than the original red on the door jams.

I've sanded all the "newer red" off and a lot of the original to where it is a patchwork of (thin) original red, dark orig primer and some spots that go to the yellow gel. It's smooth as can be! Prior to sanding, there were only a few tiny paint chips on the hood and there has never been any body work. ie. bondo or fiberglass repair. No bubbles, craching, checkering, or any other problems.

Question. Is this current condition acceptable for the paint shop? It is my intention the have the exterior done, but not the door jams, etc. Although it's in very good condition, overall, I'm retired and am not looking for a show car....just a nice "SHINY" vette for my wife and I to use.

I'm leaning toward a place called McJacks in Santa Ana, Ca. He does only corvettes and has some real beauties in his shop!

As an aside, I would actually like to paint it myself, with PPG epoxy Prime, BC/CC, but I'm a little concerned about the handling hazards with this new stuff, not my ability to do a good job!


Thanks for any comments!
 
What you have done sounds good but what was the final grit of sand paper that was used.Did yousand by hand or with a da sander?Let me know what kind of price they give you,Im just curious.
 
paintdaddy said:
What you have done sounds good but what was the final grit of sand paper that was used.Did yousand by hand or with a da sander?Let me know what kind of price they give you,Im just curious.
The final grit was 1000 and it was all by hand! If I'd tried a da, I'd have gouged something, somewhere and my perfect body would have been a thing of the past!
 
You may want to prime it yourself, (hard to make a mistake with primer) then hit it with a "Guide Coat" Wet sand it again. Then put the epoxy coat on. I think 1000 grit is a little to smooth. The pait needs something to stick to. You may want to rough it up a little with a Scotch pad or wet sand it with 650 again. Once you get it all primed, send it out for a final coat.
 
JonM said:
You may want to prime it yourself, (hard to make a mistake with primer) then hit it with a "Guide Coat" Wet sand it again. Then put the epoxy coat on. I think 1000 grit is a little to smooth. The pait needs something to stick to. You may want to rough it up a little with a Scotch pad or wet sand it with 650 again. Once you get it all primed, send it out for a final coat.
Is the epoxy primer as toxic as the PPG BC/CC? I'd really like to do it all myself, but all the stuff about the risks has me a little gittery. I know how to set the garage up with fans, plastic, use a respirator, etc. but as much as I want to, I don't know?

From what I've read, you use the epoxy primer, than the high fill primer within a certain time frame. Do you sand the firat coat of primer before the fill coat?
 
ltmark said:
Is the epoxy primer as toxic as the PPG BC/CC? I'd really like to do it all myself, but all the stuff about the risks has me a little gittery. I know how to set the garage up with fans, plastic, use a respirator, etc. but as much as I want to, I don't know?

From what I've read, you use the epoxy primer, than the high fill primer within a certain time frame. Do you sand the firat coat of primer before the fill coat?
You are correct.Epoxy primer is a non sanding primer.Its made for adhesion promotion and corrosion resistance.It requires a urethane primer over it between 1 hour and usually 48 hours.Also 1000 grit is a little over kill 400 grit is the usual final grit to be sanded with.
 

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