Sorry I posted the schematic for a 89 instead of a 86. I edited my first post to correct that.
The difference is the color of the wires at the relay socket.
Pin A is a Red wire and is 12 volts is a fusible link and hot all the time.
Pin B is a Dark Blue wire and comes from the resistor network has a varying voltage depending on the speed selected.
Pin C Black wire is ground for the Relay coil.
Pin D Brown wire and is 12 volts when High speed is selected. (Orange at the switch and changes to Brown at the relay socket.
Pin E is a Black/Red wire and powers the Blower Motor.
As Antz81 mentioned the test I asked you to do applies 12 volts from the Red fusible link to the blower motor.
The resistor network is bypassed.
If you had 12 volts on the Orange wire which changes to a Brown wire at the relay socket,
12 volts on the Red wire from the fusible link and 12 volts on the Black/Red wire which goes to the motor, the motor should run unless as mentioned the ground wire which goes to the frame rail is bad.
If you have an ohm meter.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Measure the resistance from the negative battery terminal cable to the Black wire of the 2 pin Blower motor connector. Should read zero ohms. Anything above a couple of ohms indicates a bad connection at the frame rail.
If that checks out, reconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the relay from it's socket. Take a paper clip or piece of wire and at the relay socket, jump the Red wire to the Black/Red wire. That provides 12 volts direct to the motor.
If that works, the relay is probably bad. You can use a screwdriver and carefully
pry the cover off the relay and inspect the relay coil and contacts.

Ok...this is what i did. i bypassed the resistor and took a jumper and went from the red wire that is always hot and took the positive lead off the blower motor and hooked it up and the fan worked. so i'm guessing that the resistor is bad. correct??