Problem with my non-Vette...need help ASAP!!

[Stallion]

Okay, yesterday I tried to start up my 1989 Ford Tempo and, well, nothing. The engine turns but once I let off the starter, it stops. Nothing then. But, then engine is turning. And the first time it happened, after numerous tries, I got it started. But that second time, I couldn't get anything going. It's not like this is a gradual problem. It just arose the other day.

What I thought was maybe she wasn't getting fuel, so I changed the fuel filter. But, that didn't work. Now I'm lost.

Any help?

Thanks!

Stallion

 

[drags1998]

This will be quick & to the point!!!! check fuel pressure,if none replace f.pump. If you got pressure.check spark if none could be Ign.mod or coil GOOD LUCK

 

[atmmac]

This will be quick & to the point!!!! check fuel pressure,if none replace f.pump. If you got pressure.check spark if none could be Ign.mod or coil GOOD LUCK

hope this isnt going to be a big fix! You dont want that vette making an early appearence!!

-Andy

 

[Stallion]

How do I check if I have spark? I changed the fuel filter and there is pressure, so it must be ignition. And I changed the plugs, but still not working. What now?

 

[C V Man]

I'm guessing that an '89 Tempo has a distributor.

Well, here's how to check spark regardless:

Pull a plug wire off at the plug end.
Hold the plug wire so that the metal conductor is about 1/4" from a good ground (engine block, unpainted bolt head, etc...).
Have a buddy crank the car.
Make sure you use an insulated tool to hold the wire...
...if you don't, you could find out right away if you have spark!
I don't know how many times I've been zapped on the belly through the button on my Levi's!!!:eek :eek
You'll see a spark crack across that 1/4" gap if you "have spark".
Go ahead and check the other three wires the same way(we're assuming that your plugs are good since they are new).
If you get spark from all four wires, then spark is not the problem.
If you don't get spark from one or two wires, but do get spark from the others, then you need new wires.

If no spark at all:
Pull the secondary coil wire (the one from the coil to the center of the distributor cap) from the cap and do that same spark check with this wire that you did with the plug wires.

Spark?
If yes, I'd just go ahead and replace the cap and rotor.

No?
Well it could be the coil to cap wire (you could substitute another wire for that one and then check again).

It could be the coil. Before you replace it, check to make sure the connections to the coil are tight and the connectors aren't broken.

Or the ignition module (most likely screwed to the side of the distributor).

While I consider buying new wires, cap, rotor, and sometimes a coil just regular "tune up stuff", I don't like buying ignition modules. I'd save that one for the last one I'd buy (It's usually the most expensive single part in the list) (Maybe $40).

Hope that helps!


C V Man

 

[Stallion]

Well, it seems as though I have done everything, but no luck. I changed the plugs, the wires, the cap, the rotor, the fuel filter (I have enough fuel pressure). Now what? WHAT ELSE COULD IT BE!?

Please, HELP ME!!

 

[stu]

A motor needs fuel, spark, and air to run. If you've checked fuel and spark and you're sure the're okay, that leaves air.

I don't know the setup on a Tempo but I do know on a GM-2.8L in an old S-10 Blazer the EGR can get stuck and suffocate it.

 

[corvettecrazy]

that's a good point! Did you check all the intake components?

 

[Stallion]

stu, I'll have to check this out. But I'm also not too familiar with the breathing parts of the Tempo, so I'll have to do a little research.

 

[bossvette]

will the engine run as long as its cranking, then shut off?

if so it could be a ignition switch, check for 12 volts at the coil with the switch in the on position.
my 96 truck died a week or two ago right after filling it with gas and I suspect either a fuel pump or computer have not been able to get it in the barn to work on it with all the snow I'm to old to be working out in the cold:L :L :L

 

[Stallion]

Yes, the engine will run with the starter on it, but once I let off of the started, it stops.

 

[bossvette]

most likely ignition switch but could also be a bad wire. Get a volt meter and check for voltage at the coil with the switch in the on pos.
A decent digital multi-meter will be a tool you will use often on any car to chase the electrical gremlins roughly $30-$40

 

[Stallion]

My dad has one of those meters I can use. But, if it was the ignition switch, would the starter even work and cause the engine to turn over? When I try it, it sounds like it's just about to start up, but doesn't.

 

[bossvette]

the ignition switch has at least 4 positions
off- no power anywhere
acc- power to accessories only
run- power to ignition/computer and accessories
start- power to starter/ignition/computer
they have been known to fail, if you have 12 volts to the hot side of the coil and dont get spark the problem is in the ignition system.
start at the spark plugs and work back like the earlier posts until you get power/spark

ps some newer engines with computers won't run unless there is at least 12.5 Volts if your battery is not up to snuff they won't run. Computer controlled cars are a whole new ball game

 

[Stallion]

I see what you mean. So, I should go to "run", so the car doesn't start up. And check the voltage at the plugs? How would I do this? Just take them out still with the wires (obviously), and just hook it up? So the plug is in my hand, it should get voltage in "run"?

Also, what numbers should I be looking for from the meter?

 

[bossvette]

check the voltage at the coil, the wire that goes to the ignition switch

12.5 volts or better

 

[Stallion]

I think I understand. So, I just disconnect the wire from the coil to the distr. cap and then pop the meter on the coil where the wire was, have the ignition in the "run" position, and check for 12.5 volts?

Is this correct?

 

[JohnZ]

Nope - that's secondary high-voltage, and will fry the meter - check the small positive (+) terminal (with the nut on it) to ground for voltage - should be between 8 and 12 volts.

 

[Stallion]

Okay, I'll see what kind of voltage it's pulling. And if it is pulling fine, should I change the coil out?

 

[bossvette]

Stallion
the ignition has two circuts the primary or low voltage circut which consists of the ignition switch (which controls where the power is going and off and on from the battery/alternator) current flows from the ignition switch thru the coil and is triggered by either points or ignition modules. This current energizes the secondary voltage in the coil (the big wire) which in turn is routed thru the cap and rotor to the spark plug to ground (the engine)
If you are not getting spark from your coil wire (the big one that runs from the coil to the dist cap) and you have voltage from the ignition switch at the + side of the coil the problem is in the triggering device (ie points or ignition module) or the coil. I am not familiar with your particular car but they are either inside the dist cap or mounted nearby with wires going into the distributer a "black box" or "brain"
replace whichever is cheaper first or better yet both