Problem with my non-Vette...need help ASAP!!

[Stallion]

Yes, I will replace the coil. I know where it is, and it will be no problem. I just don't think it's gonna work. The problem wouldn't happen to be the injectors, do you think?

Any other ideas?

 

[bossvette]

if you have spark when you are turning the engine over and proper fuel pressure at the shraeder valve you may want to put a scan tool on it or take it to someone who has one to be diagnosed. My 96 truck is not getting fuel and I am not sure if it is the pump(most likely) or the computer. It is sitting outside the barn with a full tank of gas surrounded by snow so I know what you are going thru, I am thinking of breaking down and buying autotap so I can work on these new cars.

 

[bossvette]

any progress with your car?

 

[Stallion]

Well, I think it might be the EGR. I read that it could cause suffocation and a bad idle or not starting. Do you think this is possible?

 

[bossvette]

I don't know. I usually ditch the smog stuff :L :L :L as I understand it the EGR valve lets a small amount of exhaust gas into the intake maniflold to assist in emissions during warm up

 

[Stallion]

Yes, that's what it is there for. And Chiltons said that if it is stuck, then it could be causing my problem. But, I'm not so sure that's it, now. Becuase I have pretty much taken everything off up until the intake manifold. So, the only air going in is fresh air. Maybe the EGR is still acting on it, though. I can't seem to locate it. :confused

 

[wishuwerehere82]

Stallion:

I have had the same problem in the recent weeks,as cold as it has been in Rochester,NY. Since Jan 1st the gas companies have been prohibitted from using MTBE as a fuel additive.
My '87 Lesabre has been coughing and sputtering for 5-6 tries to crank it over,then finally catches.When It was 3 degrees it would not even run on 1 cylinder. I "fixed" my problem by adding Isopropanol dry gas and some fuel injector cleaner to the tank after using a cube heater under the block for an hour or so. I also draped a tarp over the car to keep the heat in and put hot water bottles on the fuel rails. It may not be spark or fuel, but frozen water in the fuel that is the problem.
Just a suggestion if all else fails. Good luck!

 

[Stallion]

Do you think that is the problem!? By golly, I hope so. I will do what you say. Hopefully this is it.

 

[bossvette]

Ok you have determined that you have spark correct? the next thing you need is fuel, and you have the proper pressure at the shraeder valve, correct. I thought your problem was that the engine would start but died when you released the starter.

 

[Stallion]

I have enough pressure at the valve. You know, boss, I'm not really sure if it starts, persay. I think the starter is just running the motor. Is that possible? I wish you were here to hear the engine and see everything going on.

 

[bossvette]

yea its hard to diagnose what you cant see or hear

 

[bossvette]

clear out your PM box

 

[Stallion]

I cleared it out. Go ahead and send.

 

[BigRed]

Take a 12V standard auto light bulb and solder or clip two wires on the terminals.

Now you have a NOID.

disconnect your injector (4 cylinder has only one) (six cyl just pick one)

Stick the other ends of the wires into each terminal of the injector plug. Have a friend crank the engine. If your little light turns on and pulses your pbly ok with your injection system. Pretty hard to check the actual injector here.

then pull off some spark plug wires and ground them to REAL metal being careful have buddy crank the motor. Its it very strong current or fairly weak?

Pull off the cap and inspect the cap (looking for corrosion) and the rotor looking for burns and even a small hole in the metal strip.

Next turn the ignition forward and listem for a very quiet buzz from the rear of the car. its only on the 2 seconds so mabe have buddy run the key and you can actually get your ears closer to the rear of the car (fuel tank)

Got Buzz? Cool Dude!

Next inspect your plugs Good? Now buy a 10 dollar compression tester and stick it into the plug holes and have buddy crank the motor in pulses. Should be over 100 psi.

Ok?

Now your probably going to have to tow it in....ugh...

Mechanics going to fuel pressure test/Spark test/computer scan/pulse and then scope test in the neighborhood of about 100-200 bucks

Hope that works out for you

 

[Stallion]

Sorry I didn't update you guys earlier, but we brought it in the shop. They told us that it was a problem in the distributor. Not exactly sure what (well, I had changed the cap and rotor, so it wasn't that). Something that I could have never figured out.

Thanks for everything, guys!

Stallion