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proper break in period?

Gaming Glen

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 16, 2002
Messages
48
Location
Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Corvette
1996 Grand Sport convertible, 2003 red coupe
The manual says drive the new car for 500 miles to break it in. What's the truth? Is 55 really the top speed you should? Does anyone actually do so? What are the levels/miles and activities for breaking in a new C5 (coupe)?

I got my new red coupe last Saturday! :beer



Glen
 
i am not certain of exact speeds and driving conditions... but i do know that you should not stay at one speed all the time...

for instance, don't drive the first 500 miles on the interstate while cruising at 75.... you should vary the speed and engine loads during this break in period....

congratulations on your new car...

Geof
 
Congrats on your new Vette!! It is not the speed that is so critical as the RPM's. You should vary the RPM's, vary the speed, and also seat the brakes. No real high speeds, no high RPM's, no hard stops until you are over 500 miles. Drive at different speeds and RPM's. Does it matter? It sure does.

After you break in the engine, you will have plenty of time to have fun up at the "red line". :Steer :v By the way, I did it this way as many others have before us.
 
I drove at 55mph top speed until I had 500 miles on mine. I varied the speed also. It was kind of embarassing driving 55 mph on the highway, with the license plate "C PAT GO" and everyone kept passing me. :)
Congratulations on your new red beauty!

:w
Patti
 
You are getting some very good advice on here. The best is that which said vary your speed. That is the key in respect to the engine.
You didn't say if you had a 6spd, or A4, but check your tach next time your out driving it, at 55 MPH it is probably about 1000 RPM, barely off idle, at 75 you may be about 1500?
Very important: Easy take-offs reduce the strain on those new drivetrain components so they can learn to live and work together.
2nd Most Important: Try to plan ahead for easy stops to allow the brake pads and rotors to get aquainted gracefully, not in a panic.
Believe it or not short trips that get the operating temps up to their normal levels followed by a substantial cooling period is the best thing. This is called cycling, and what actually happens is the metals expand when subjected to a run cycle that gets everything up to normal temperature for about 30 minutes, then fully contract during the cooling period.
It takes approximately 7000 miles of cycling for the metals in a new engine to reap the benefits of the synthetic oil. But you don't have to baby it for 7000 miles, 500 - 1000 is what I usually use as the rule of thumb, with 500 being the minimum.
Now many will quickly argue the next point, that is when should you change the oil for the first time.... that all depends on how deep your pockets are.
I usually shoot for about 3000 miles for the first oil/filter change, although I doubt if going until the "change oil now" light illuminates would have any substantial effect on the life of your engine.
Many will say change it at 500 miles, some at 1000 miles, to get rid of the "break-in" oil. The oil that comes in a new Corvette is not a special break-in oil, it is Mobil1 5W-30.
I would say, the price of Mobil1 is a little steep for me to dump out at 500 miles or even 1000. The better idea is to change the filter and top off what is lost from the filter. Then change the oil at the recommended intervals.
Well, as usual I got rather long winded on what should have been a short answer.
Best of luck with the new vette, and drive it, that's the best thing for these cars. :w
vettepilot
 
Thanks, everyone. It's a 6 speed.

My game store is about a 30 minute drive, either by a street (a few less miles, but with construction going on) or by interstates with speed limits of 55 and 70 (and rarely does anyone do 55). I've been hitting speeds of 70 on occassion. The street path lets me go through the various speeds and gears while the i-state lets me run at more even rpms for a bit.

Someone asked me yesterday why I didn't already have the 500+ miles on it. Well, just getting over a flu bug and taking medication (antihistamines really get me numb) isn't too conducive to driving; and I'm in no hurry: 6 months down the road and I'll hate myself for adding miles on just to have added miles on. :Steer

Oh, I'm reminded of another thing. Starting out in first, I tend to either race or lug the engine (and not just with this car). Any tips on getting the right rpms and clutch timing? Or just practice?

Glen
 
Just practice... listen to what your engine is telling ya. If it sounds like it is making a deep or low grunting rumble, and has no pick-up, then your probably shifting too soon. If it sounds light, peaky, and over revving, it probably is, you should have shifted long ago...LOL

The tach is useful, but mainly when running up through the gears while pulling the revs up to almst redline, for normal everyday driving, it's much easier to just learn how to interpret what your engine needs in terms of "which gear" will provide what I want, "acceleration", "speed", or "just get there" driving.
Many of us on here learned how to drive in a car that had three speeds on the column, "three on the tree" was a common saying.
I "car" I learned to drive in was a 1928 Model A that had been converted into a farm tractor, the forward transmission was a Ford 3 speed, the second transmission was a Chevy 4 speed. And they weren't syncromeshed either. With both tranmissions in reverse, it had such a low range that max speed was about 5 MPH! But it could tow a house off the foundations, just a saying, not actually practiced...LOL

vettepilot
 
(dang preview, lost my post... so a shorter one)

I remember my uncles talking about shifting at the right time based on the engine sound. I rarely pay attention to the tach (drove automatics for the longest time), but the HUD makes it easier.

Is the "55 limit" in the book for the break-in period based on the old US national speed limit and they haven't bothered re-editing those manuals? I never stayed that slow with the GS, and it runs fine.


Glen
 
The general rules that I have followed to break in an engine that is using Mobil One are:

1. Keep the engine revs below 2500 for the first 500 miles. The exception would be if the engine starts to lug - then downshift and increase the revs until you are past what has caused the engine to lug (typically, it would be a hill).

2. For the next 500 miles (from 500 to 1000), keep the engine revs below 3000. There will be less concern for avoiding engine lug, because you have more of the torque range to work with; however, still avoid lugging.

3. Vettepilot's comments about engine cycling, planning your trips, stopping gently, etc. are also applicable. Make sure the trips do not involve extremes.

4. Lastly, at 3000 miles, you might consider a complete replacement of the transmission fluid as well as replacing the oil and filter. While not required, would you want tiny pieces of metal from the break-in process floating around?

I used the above procedure on a 6.0 liter Denali that I bought in 2001, and had excellent results. (I get great gas mileage and the truck runs 0-60 in 8.5 seconds - this in a 5500 lb. truck....) I plan on following the same approach when I get my '03 Coupe (build date of Feb 17th). Enjoy your new 'vette!
 
Break-in Period - BAH HUMBUG!

My dad always told me to break in a new car the way you expect to drive it - I took my 2001 Z06 to the track the day after I bought it In July 2001 and have had no problems - I have autox'd with it as well
 
If you want the best chance of the car lasting, follow the owner's manual.

But, having said that, don't beat yourself up if you "forget" once in a while.
 

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