Pulling the Power Control Valve

[Bob Chadwick]

My 18 month old power steering control valve is leaking. I paid to have it replaced last time as part of the front end rebuild. This time I'm going to do it myself.

In looking at it, it appears that there are 4 lines and two bolts. Am I going to need any special tools to remove the valve where it attaches to the pitman arm or the steering linkage?

Bob

 

[68Roadster]

Bob,
I think you are going to have to get something like a gear puller to get it off the pitman arm. I converted to power steering so all my stuff was new and it was fairly easy but I did have to remove the old stuff.
Get your lines started but not tight before you hook it up, mine were a PITA.
You have the balance procedure for the valve right??

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Sure do. I helped the guy do it the first time. I was afraid I was going to need that gear puller. Can't be that expensive and I'm sure NAPA will have it.

Thanks.

 

[68Roadster]

Thats what I had to do.......had more time runnin to NAPA than I did putting the whole system on!

Good luck.....

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Thanks for the info.

 

[Robin7TFour]

BOB , before you go to NAPA, try autozone. they will loan you tools for such a job.i suggest you take pictures(or manual) with you. it's easier to explain what you need.
i am guessing you'll need a ball- joint tool(aka pickle-fork) and a pitman arm puller.
i will be watching to see your progress. i have to completely do my entire p/s system. leaks and noisy pump too!

best to you
ROBIN
P.S . if you don't have a set of LINE WRENCHES i recommend you get them. you'll get a better grip on the hose fittings. also less chance of rounding off the ends.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Robin,

I just think I'll need the pitman arm puller. The other end slides on to the suspension component and clamps in place. I'm told all I might need there is a ball peen hammer and a block of wood.

I alread did the p/s pump. Fairly easy with no complications. Just lots of parts to get out of the way. The pulley needs to be transferred from the old pump to the new and I paid someone to do that. Of course you have all the tools and I don't. :cry

Bob

 

[wishuwerehere82]

Bobchad:

I dumped the whole load of power steering fluid on the floor over the winter.
Do yourself a favor and get a new valve and not a rebuilt one.
I went through 3 of them by the time I got one that worked properly. Cardone brand. 1st one didn't thread on to the shaft all the way. 2nd worked for a week. 3rd one turned left, but not right.
I couldn't get a new one because they were all on backorder from the manufacturer due to a tooling problem.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Good advise Pete. I wish I could take it but my vendor is taking back a rebuilt unit out of warranty and swapping it with a new one.

 

[wishuwerehere82]

Just make sure the control valve moves both ways before you put it on.

 

[JohnZ]

The new valves made by Stainless Steel Brakes Corp. are missing the o-ring groove that should be in the divider plate between the halves of the valve. When they assemble the new valves they smear RTV on the two sides and bolt it together. More times than not they leak.... the original GM valves and plates are designed for the O-ring, and they don't leak when properly rebuilt.

You can identify the SSBC valves, as they have "SSBC-50A" cast into the outboard half of the valve.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Thanks John. Would this result in them leaking from underneath the collar that goes around the unit?

 

[JohnZ]

Yup- best bet is to rebuild an original GM valve - kits are about $20.00.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Great. My problem is that I no longer have the original valve having traded it in as a core when I got this one.

 

[Robin7TFour]

HELLO ALL, this was a good thread to watch. i'll definately take JOHN Z's advice and rebuild the original..BOB, i am going to do the same that you are. new pump hoses etc.
now, where did i put that credit card.....hmmm.

your pal

bubba the tree mechanic

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Rub it in Robin. :L

The unit is out. You need to put it up on jack stands and take the wheel off. It took me longer to figure that out than it did to take it off. I tried crawling around under the car and had a heck of a time.

4 hoses came off. Two on the top and two on the bottom. Make sure you note which goes to where on the bottom or you will have problems when you balance the valve later. I learned that last time. The top are two different sizes so no problem there.

Take out the cotter key on the castle nut to disconnect from the pitman arm. Take the castle nut off and the unit drops down. No tools needed.

Unscrew the bolt on the end where the valve attaches to the suspension and the unit screws off. Another one of those long learning curves as I tried to pull it off.

John, no SSBC numbers casted in to it. It looks like

6685459
021

Any idea on what that signifies?

If I read my AIM correctly 42 - 47 ft lbs of torque on the castle nut when I put it back on (this seems high). The AIM does not indicate what it should be for the brass bolt holding the unit in place on the suspension. Any ideas?

The last thing will be to add power steering fluid, take the cap of the end of the ram and balance the valve.

How many oz of power steering fluid does a fully drained system hold.

 

[JohnZ]

The clamp bolt torque where the control valve screws onto the steering relay rod is 15-22 ft-lbs. Filling a dry system takes a little over a quart of power steering fluid. The casting number indicates you have an original GM valve.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Thanks John.

I have the valve back in place. I screwed it on to the suspension component and it seated as it almost lined up to put the bolt through the pitman arm. I had to back it 3/4's of a turn to line it up. This leaves a dime's width between the edge of the valve and the suspension component. Is this excessive?

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Everything is back in. No fluid yet. There is a "clunk" that is coming out of the valve when I turn the wheel to the right or left just enough to put pressure on the valve.

 

[JohnZ]

The "clunk" will disappear when you fill it and bleed it; that's the spool moving back and forth in the valve bore with no fluid on either side of it.