Pulling the Power Control Valve

[Bob Chadwick]

John,

I was hoping you would post the good news here. I always look forward to your input and advice.

Bob

 

[Robin7TFour]

BOB, thank you for doing all the r & d for me.now i know just what to expect. i'll have to do the pump also. so i will label the lines to avoid the confusion.

ride fast , turn left.

robin

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Robin,

The thanks goes to everybody, especially JohnZ, who followed the post and answered questions and gave advice.

Bob

 

[Bob Chadwick]

I filled the system, removed the bolt on the end of the ram, started the car and adjusted the valve. Turned the bolt one way until the ram started moving. Stopped turning and waited until it went all the way in that direction. Turned the bolt the other way until it started moving again. Stopped turning and let the ram go all the way in the other direction. Did this two or three times until I determined that there was about 1/2 turn of the nut between where the ram started moving in each direction. Centered the nut between these two points, put the dust cap back on and the nut on the end of the ram, which takes 20 - 26 ft/lbs of torque according to the AIM.

John, The clunk goes away when the system is under pressure. Turn off the engine and it comes back. This can't be normal can it?

Bob

 

[JohnZ]

Some rebuilt valves do that, some don't; it may get better with time when the seals are bedded-in.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Thanks John. As I recall the last one did that as well.

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

John, The clunk goes away when the system is under pressure. Turn off the engine and it comes back. This can't be normal can it?

Bob

Mine has always done that, I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Doesn't sound like anything to worry about but I definitely don't like it. ad

 

[vmrod]

Bob, I had used a pickle fork to remove mine. Just take your time, and you'll figure it out. I rebuilt mine, and have had no leaks or probs. I think I used snap-ring pliers too.

When you take it down and apart, lay everthing out in a logical manner, then go back with the new seals and such. It is a good time to clean and repaint the unit too.

Before I attached the rod to the car. I started the car and carefully adjusted the control valve. (using the set-screw and followed instructions in one of the threads on this site)

I say go for it and rebuild your own. At very worst case, you would waste $20 bucks, but you still gain knowledge. However, I bet it will work for you.

-Vic

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Vic,

If this one eventually leaks I will definitely rebuild it myself. When I first replaced it two Summers ago I was in a time crunch getting my car ready for SharkFest at the NCM. The company that sold me that valve gave me another rebuilt for free even though it was outside of warranty so I went with it rather than rebuild the one that I had.

Bob

 

[wishuwerehere82]

That Clunk is normal when the engine is not running. It's the valve moving and pushing on the steering rack.

 

[vmrod]

Mine does not clunk.

 

[wishuwerehere82]

You might want to check to see if the bracket that the end of the power steering rod bushings goes through is loose. Mine was loose and made a clunking sound. It is attached to the frame with 4 bolts with 1/2 in. heads. Get a friend to turn the steering wheel and watch to see if it moves.

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Thanks for the input but it's not there. I replaced those U shaped bolts last year, torqued them to spec and torqued the end of the ram to specs.

It appears that the movement is in the valve and only with the power off. Once you get pressure in the system, everything seats and the clunk goes away.

 

[Robin7TFour]

HELLO FOLKS, i think i am going to watch the swaps for a control valve and cylinder, just to have both pieces rebuilt and ready for later in the car's life.

robin