put the motor back in the frame have some questions, 60 C1

[firstgear]

Got the motor back in the frame so that I can get the new motor mounts welded onto the frame and while I was at it, I thought I would put the headers on to see how everything fits....
First problem, where the header passes underneath the oil filter it is so close that the filter can never come off...it is actually touching the end of the header. QUESTION: Is there a shorter filter than the one I have on the motor that would give me perhaps an inch more clearance? or any other kind of solution someone might have....

I don't have the starter on the motor, but I am wondering if anybody sees any other potential areas of interference....do you think the starter will be touching anything? Anything else doesn't look right?

I would appreciate comments....thanks!!!

 

[Stan's Customs]

Yes they make a shorter filter...don't quote me but PF-38 may be right Delco #...

When positioning side mount brackets...allow a little for settling (rubber mount)....probably insignificant...but worth checking....not sure how close stock fan shroud clearances are...

Starter is close and gets hot...but will clear. Some use a tin or aluminum shield to deflect heat in hotter climates...especially with headers.

 

[firstgear]

Yes they make a shorter filter...don't quote me but PF-38 may be right Delco #...

When positioning side mount brackets...allow a little for settling (rubber mount)....probably insignificant...but worth checking....not sure how close stock fan shroud clearances are...

Starter is close and gets hot...but will clear. Some use a tin or aluminum shield to deflect heat in hotter climates...especially with headers.

I noticed in the Summit Racing Equipment book that they have "small" starters...would those provide more clearance?

The side mounts, you mention for allowing a llittle settling for the rubber, I have my original mounts that I was using, I was wondering if I should be using new rubber mounts when positioning for the side mounts....if you have any photos of side mounts welded on the frame, I would like to see them...

thanks

 

[68Roadster]

Check around, you may have to go with a remote mounted oil filter setup....

 

[bossvette]

They have smaller shorter filters, or better yet run thru a cooler and remote filter.

those "Mini HiTorque" starters work real well. I believe the C5s use them.

You have been pretty busy these last couple of weeks haven't you Herb, Looks good.

 

[firstgear]

They have smaller shorter filters, or better yet run thru a cooler and remote filter.

those "Mini HiTorque" starters work real well. I believe the C5s use them.

You have been pretty busy these last couple of weeks haven't you Herb, Looks good.

Craig, been real busy.....tried to weld the battery tray on...had it tack welded into place.....then had a pile of bolts on it and when I went to move the frame with the motor the dolly slipped out of the back position and the frame hit the ground and the battery tray fell off.....haha....I was not happy, I was so proud of getting that darn thing tacked in place...I had welded in 34 years...and from the number of times I got the welding stick stuck on the frame or tray it showed...I think I only got a couple of sticks to actually weld and feed right....I got that darn stick stuck so many times I was getting really PO'd.....oh well....I think I will save it for the professional welder to get it stuck on right....unless I want to try one more time...anyone have any good ideas on ways to weld and not get the darn stick stuck so many times??????

 

[Stan's Customs]

It won't stick if you crank up the amperage...Practice a couple of minutes on a piece of scrap metal till you get it right then work on the battery box...save you some clean up time. 6011 rod might help you too...it's pretty forgiving. Just keep the rod moving , if only minutely after you strike the arc...you can't just hold it still and let it burn.

I don't care for remote oil filters and coolers except in extreme duty applications like those used for towing. Just more opportunities for leaks....and I don't care for tube headers on the street either. There are some cast manifolds out there that flow well and dissapate heat better....which is a factor to be considered when running them close to a fiberglass floor and trying to keep your plug wires from melting. Tube headers are problematic in that they often leak at the collector flange after a while...in fact they are famous for burning out the gaskets at the heads too. For racing they are a must...regardless of these problems. On the street I avoid them alltogether..I would run stock 2 1/2" cast iron manifolds if I didn't like any of the aftermarket cast performance manifolds (they can be a little pricey and not that much better than the hi-po stockers..)

The high torque mini starters are the cat's meow in my view. Pricey but very nice and much easier to mount clearance wise.

Sorry, that I don't have any pics of side mounts I have done ...but they are a no brainer really. The main thing is to practice welding on some scrap till you get get a good burn (penetration). If you can knock it off with a big hammer it won't hold.

 

[firstgear]

It won't stick if you crank up the amperage...Practice a couple of minutes on a piece of scrap metal till you get it right then work on the battery box...save you some clean up time. 6011 rod might help you too...it's pretty forgiving. Just keep the rod moving , if only minutely after you strike the arc...you can't just hold it still and let it burn.

quote]thats what I needed to know...that is good comments that I needed....I wasn't sure which way to go and had used the value that was recommended in the book that came with it....it stuck almost immediately, no chance to really get it close and drag it...or feed it....I will try again, but turn the amps up higher than they were before, I am using 1/16 rod...thanks....we'll see how that goes...

 

[cbernhardt]

...and from the number of times I got the welding stick stuck on the frame or tray it showed...I think I only got a couple of sticks to actually weld and feed right....I got that darn stick stuck so many times I was getting really PO'd.....oh well....I think I will save it for the professional welder to get it stuck on right....unless I want to try one more time...anyone have any good ideas on ways to weld and not get the darn stick stuck so many times??????

As Stan said, you probably need to turn the amperage up some. Also you might try some 7014 rod (also known as contact rod) which has a special coating that lets you drag (contact) the end of the rod against the work piece and the flux on the rod maintains the proper arc spacing.
Charles

 

[firstgear]

turned up the amperage....and that baby was humming and laying down some weld.....I got it stuck this time...I will have the "professional welder" make the whole thing look "pretty"....it is far from pretty....really couldn't seem to get it to stich a real nice weld down, but I got enough there that it is on tihs time....thanks all for the comments...worked well.....

also got a smaller filter at NAPA and that worked...I need to get the frame up on my lift so I can see if I can maneuver the filter out....while it is on the ground it appeared that I could just wiggle it out.....it is tight between the header and the engine when I was trying to squeeze it out of there.....thanks again everyone!!!!

 

[jims427400]

Herb,
Glad you got things tacked down.Wish I lived closer,I used to be a certified welded in my previous life.You got great recomendations w/cranking up the amps and switching to a 7014 or 7018(low hydrogen)rod.Not as much splatter as the 60 type rod.To use the 7018 type your metals have to be very clean.
BTW,still trying to figure out the best way to have my lift delivered.

 

[firstgear]

Herb,
Glad you got things tacked down.Wish I lived closer,I used to be a certified welded in my previous life.You got great recomendations w/cranking up the amps and switching to a 7014 or 7018(low hydrogen)rod.Not as much splatter as the 60 type rod.To use the 7018 type your metals have to be very clean.
BTW,still trying to figure out the best way to have my lift delivered.

I am a certified nut.....haha.....wish you were here, would have made for nicer welds for sure....let me know if you need help with the lift...

 

[firstgear]

Herb,
Glad you got things tacked down.Wish I lived closer,I used to be a certified welded in my previous life.You got great recomendations w/cranking up the amps and switching to a 7014 or 7018(low hydrogen)rod.Not as much splatter as the 60 type rod.To use the 7018 type your metals have to be very clean.
BTW,still trying to figure out the best way to have my lift delivered.

I am a certified nut.....haha.....wish you were here, would have made for nicer welds for sure....let me know if you need help with the lift...

 

[Larry Shermak]

Another problem with headers is spark plug clearance. That is why I will stay with stock manifolds on my 61' instead of headers.

 

[bossvette]

I had mine delivered to my Job and met the truck at the factory where they used a fork lift to load it on my Pick-up, going down the road home my Wife was having fits.

 

[IH2LOSE]

Herb 7014 is an excellent easey to work with rod,gives a nice "Tap" or penatration,

A good rod to practice with,or use on your battery tray is 6013.this is the rod I use to teach people how to weld,I wouldnt use it on your front suspention but it is a general purpose rod.

The biggest mistake I see folks make when arc welding is not getting good penertration,they just pile it on.

Beside rod size and style what effects penetration is your amprage,how far away you keep the rod from the work area,and how fast you move the rod. Miller used to have a nice online course on the princables of welding. When i was teaching my son how to weld he took an online course that took about 2 nights to complete for mig and arc.

Battery tray is a tough thing to weld because you have to heat the frame enough to penatrate it but not burn thru the tray itself.

It may sound silly but when i am trying to teach some one to weld, I get some angle iron and ask them to weld there intials out of the angle iron.

Normally a good weld is almost flat.If its standing proud of the work surface its probably not a strong weld,

Good luck

I also have invested in self dimming masks and will never go back to the old style,Makes things real easey