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Questions and advice

J

JB_68_Roadster

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Hi all, my name is Joe.

The 68 is the first carbeurated and non EFI/PCM type of vehicle Ive owned in about 15 years. I bought this Vette a couple of weeks ago and havent had a whole lot of time to get intimate with it yet but there are some obvious problems with it. I have my own suspicions as to what may be causing some of these problems but only a fool never listens to the wisdom of the experienced so I turn to the elder statesmen and young brainiacs for some possibilities I may be overlooking.

First off let me give you some background on the car. It was purchased by a restoration/muscle car leasing corp. and they're intentions were to lease it out for weekends, summers or even long term. Luckily I saved it from that fate by getting them to sell it to me. It has a base 327 with 300h.p. and 360 ft/lb. tq. and the standard 3spd. which Im going to swap out for a M21 or 22 at some point in the future. Not sure on the rear gearing yet, havent decoded it but the car is virtually all stock and in great shape.

The first and foremost thing that I noticed is that the car has absolutely no power. It starts fine, sounds good and seems to run well but there certainly isnt no 300h.p. as advertised. It feels more like 150h.p. and 175 ft/lb tq. To put it in perspective my winter ride is a 91 Jeep Comanche with a straight six and about 150,000 miles on it. My Jeep could walk all over this Vette... In every gear......Not cool.

It doesnt blow any smoke white, grey or black. It doesnt sound like it's missing though it does have electrical problems. It sounds kinda bogged down when I take off and is just way underpowered. One thing I know is that the large rear butterfly on the carb isnt opening at w.o.t. and Im thinking the timing might be way too retarded. I have even wondered that since this was going to be a lease car if it wasnt governed but I wouldnt know what a governor would look like if it smacked me in the mouth.

The electrical problem I spoke of perplexes me a little but I suppose it will just be a short somewhere. The day after I brought the car home I went out to the garage and heard a soft buzzing sound comming from the drivers side engine compartment. When I opened the door to pop the hood and the int. lights came on the buzzing stopped. I looked at where it sounded like it came from and it seemed to be the brand new voltage regulator or what appears to be a starter relay switch mounted right in the middle of the drivers side inner fender. Also the battery does not stay charged and Im assuming that its related to this. When I jumped it to start it the negative side cable on the car and the jumper became rather warm which I believe lends support to a short problem.

Anyways I didnt mean to write War and Peace here but I dont know these cars, havent even got a good shop manual or any schematics yet, havent timed or tuned a car without the aid of a computer in some time yet I burn to get this thing running better.

I guess I figure some of you must be way more experienced than me and would appreciate any suggestions or FYI's about my model/year. I guess once I get it running correct in it's current condition then the struggle of "to mod or not to mod, that is the question" will be next.

Again I would be thankful for any suggestions.

Peace,
J.
 
First, the car needs a good, old fashioned tune-up. Points, plugs, condensor, cap & rotor, and perhaps plug wires. Check points dwell angle and ignition timing. Can't hurt.

Next, your carburetor may need to be rebuilt and properly set up. If the car sat for any length of time, it may be all gunked up inside. If there is a good carb shop in the area, take it to them.

Remember that you need to find a "mature" mechanic. The kids that often work at dealers barely even know what a carb is!

Somebody else will have to puzzle out your electrical problem...
 
Good advice from page62. I have a 70 350/300 and it ran like crap for nearly a year after I bought it . Finally did a complete tune up and replaced the wires. Timing was way off.

You wouldn't know it was the same motor. One of the spark plugs #2 was loose. It is in a bad place under the AC compressor so no one put a wrench on it. Wires that are not routed through the chrome shielding have a tendency to get burnt by the exhaust manifold and need to be replaced regularly.

If that fails do a compression test and other diagnostics. Remember that engine is 35 years old with who knows how many miles. A rebuild may not be out of the question but do the basics first.
 
Welcome Joe!

Welcome to Corvette Action Center.
Good luck with your vette.
Heidi :w
 
Hey Joe: (as Jimmi Hendrix would say)

Well, Well, Well.........Finally, a local boy from the downriver area! Welcome to :CAC The Guys & Gals on this forum are a good bunch & have an abundance of information on just about any subject pertaining to "America's Only True Sports Car"

I can't really add anything other than what advise you're already getting, except I'm pretty good at troubleshooting electrical problems in autos. I really can't say what's causing yours, without more specific info & without really seeing the car "in the flesh". Other than that, I'd only be "pokin' & guessin'" Take care of the simple stuff & let me know how she runs after that.

Dave: :Steer :pat
 
Start with a full tune up , compression, and leakdown test.

As to mod or not down the road...my feeling is : If the car hasnt been maintained as original , then go for mods as you can really increase performance with a few simple bolt ons.

Dave
 
Well...

Thanks for all the responses peeps.

Page, sounds like good sound advice to me. I dont have anything against letting someone younger work on my car if need be but the keyword you use is "mature" , gotta be that... and respectful if Im gonna be paying him. BTW... What exactly is on Page 62?

Red 70, lol you sound like me "after a year". :) Ill probably be ****in about the same probs 6 months from now, lol.

Thanks 78SilvAnniv, it's nice to meet you all. :)

Cruisin Davey, my man! Yeah been from Downriver my whole existance. Lived in the Brownstown/Trenton area growing up. I figured one thing out with the electrical. The buzzing noise is definitely comming from what I believe is a starter relay switch mounted right behind the voltage regulator. Just touching it tickled my finger, like a mini vibrator, lol. Anyways I also noticed today when I broke down :( that when I put the ignition key in alls fine but if I push it just a tiny bit further the buzzing starts. That dont mean much because it did it when there was no key in the car at all while the car was just sitting parked overnight. I also think the starter may be bad, it takes a lot to turn this thing over... Almost like when an engine gets real hot and it sounds labored when it's turning over. Im gonna take a stab at figuring it out and if I cant I suppose Ill take it to a reputable, local shop. Any suggestions on one?

Iron Cross thanks for the link. I was tellin one of my gearhead bros about the place and he says he's met the owner and that he was a very likeable guy. Maybe Ill check them out.

SwaveDave, The car is mostly original condition with plenty of restorative parts like susp, exhaust, paint, top but I have the bug dude... It doesnt matter how hard I try I just cant bring myself to not doing at least some mods. Now Im not the kind of guy that races 24/7 from light to light but it's nice to know that if I want to go that the car will hold it's own and keep the vette rep up there. Maybe some time in the near future I may ask your advice on what makes these old Chevy's thump but I think just like all my late model efi's - air, fuel, ignition, traction. :)

Thanks all, Ill keep you posted if I figure any of this out.

J.
 
J.

Good advice start with basics, I started in same canoe. Bad plugs/wires, timing that you couldn't see with a timing light and all this after the guaranteed 100 point check. I had to rebuild carb, fix all the vacumn leaks, fix the choke etc etc etc. My car was anemic, now respectable, the guy who owned it wanted to look good in a Vette versus have the Vette run like it's supposed to.

Mike
 
When I first purchased my '75, it felt the same way. A good tune up, including timing it for power did the trick. So, the advice above about starting with the basics is good.

However, I really checked in here to comment on the secondaries not opening. If you are running a Quadrajet, you will not see the secondaries opening simply by blipping the throttle. The secondaries are vacuum operated and you are not going to get the nessessary signal to open them. Actually, as strange as it may sound, try driving the car (not far, just enough for this test) without the air cleaner. Stomp on it and listen for the WWWHHHHAAAAAAAAA!!!! sound. Sorry for the terrible spelling of that sound . . . however, it's very distinctive. If the secondaries are opening, there is no mistaking that sound. Anyway, I would check it out in that manner before assuming that the secondaries are not opening.

Ron
 
JB_68_Roadster says:

Cruisin Davey, my man! Yeah been from Downriver my whole existance. Lived in the Brownstown/Trenton area growing up. I figured one thing out with the electrical. The buzzing noise is definitely comming from what I believe is a starter relay switch mounted right behind the voltage regulator. Just touching it tickled my finger, like a mini vibrator, lol. Anyways I also noticed today when I broke down that when I put the ignition key in alls fine but if I push it just a tiny bit further the buzzing starts. That dont mean much because it did it when there was no key in the car at all while the car was just sitting parked overnight. I also think the starter may be bad, it takes a lot to turn this thing over... Almost like when an engine gets real hot and it sounds labored when it's turning over. Im gonna take a stab at figuring it out and if I cant I suppose Ill take it to a reputable, local shop. Any suggestions on one?


J: I use to take mine up to S & A Auto Clinic in Allen Park. Located on Ecorse Rd. just west of Allen (on the other side of the RR track underpass) on the south side of Ecorse. But, it's been a real while since I've been there. Don't know if it's still owned by the same guy. You can try 'em out. I really don't take mine to any shops, don't trust 'em with my "baby". I'll check with some of my Vette buddies in the area (Downriver Corvette Club) & see what I can come up with. Sounds as if you may have a bad voltage regulator & the starter relay switch (?) may be getting too much juice & also the reason why you're constantly draining the battery. The starting problem may be the result of bad timing (too far advanced). Those are easy things to check. I always go for the obivious 1st & then move on to harder things if that isn't the problem. Always try & have a "Plan B". If you could, c'mon out to Pensalt Club in Wyandotte tomorrow (Thursday). I'm doing a weekly classic car cruise nite there. There's alot of Vette guys there hanging out (or should be). Catch 'ya later!

Dave:
:Steer :pat
 
Mike, sad as it sounds Im glad to know many others here had some of the same probs and it was all relatively minor. I work with a Mike Carter, nice guy.

RPounds, Yes you are correct, it is a quadrajet. See, thats what I mean about not having much experience with carbeurated cars although I did wonder if the secondaries were vaccuum operated.

Davey, You mean the PenwaLt club dont you? Isnt it right near the toll bridge on Biddle? What time are you going up?

Thanks again guys Im gonna retune it this weekend and see what happens.

J.
 
JB_68_Roadster Sez:

Davey, You mean the PenwaLt club dont you? Isnt it right near the toll bridge on Biddle? What time are you going up?

Penwalt......Pensalt, same place. And, it's located in the south end of downtown Wyandotte & quite aways from the Grosse Ile Toll bridge, which actually is in Riverview. Pensalt is just one block south of Eureka. I'm there every Thursday & usually get there sometime around five pm. You should check it out. BTW: The corvette club I mentioned goes there on Tuesday Nights & hangs out. I'll send 'ya a PM soon.

Dave

:Steer :pat
 

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