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R/R Front Wheel Bearings

fine69

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 12, 2004
Messages
975
Location
Maryland / D.C.
Corvette
'69 Convertible Vette; '72 Z28 Camaro Rally Sport
I have the front hubs removed and cleaned-up.

What's the procedure for removing and replacing front wheel bearings? I've never done this before, and want to be sure I do it correctly.

Thanks!
 
You'll need to drive out the old inner and outer races from the hub and install the new ones; the procedure is outlined in Section 3 of the Chassis Service Manual.
:beer
 
Any of the big automotive stores sell a great little tool for packing the bearings with grease. I paid about $10.00. It looks like to cones that stack one on top of the other. The bearing sits inside the cones. You attach your grease gun and apply grease. The grease is forced between the bearings while it sits inside the cones. Takes about 30 seconds per bearing.
 
fine69 said:
I have the front hubs removed and cleaned-up.

What's the procedure for removing and replacing front wheel bearings? I've never done this before, and want to be sure I do it correctly.

Thanks!

Are you installing new bearings, or just cleaning and re-packing the old ones? My previous post about driving out the old races assumed you were installing new ones. If you're just cleaning and re-packing the old ones, it's pretty simple.
:beer
 
Thank you for the replies.

John, yes I am installing completely new bearings. I couldn't figure out how to remove the existing races. I was hoping to do it myself without having to go to the machine shop that's been doing the other work. I tell ya, I should have a pay allotment to those guys!

I'll check out Section 3 of the Chassis Service Manual tonight. Thanks again!
 
Hi fine69! Removing the front wheel bearings is a very easy job to do. Go to an auto parts or hardware store and get a brass punch 1/2" or 5/8" in diameter.
If you run your finger around the inside edge of either inner or outer bearing race, you will feel two indentations or hollowed out areas 180 degrees apart in the hub itself that were designed for the purpose of placing the punch in. Insert the punch into the hub from the opposite end from the bearing race you wish to remove. Place the punch in the hollowed out area with the end of the punch resting on the edge of the bearing race you wish to remove. Briskly hammer the punch while firmly holding the punch against the edge of the race. Alternate sides as the bearing assembly starts to move outward so that it doesnt get jammed in sideways. Methodically hammer the punch evenly on each side of the races until it just pops out of the hub. If you haven't yet removed the grease seals inserted into the hub ends right next to the bearings - this procedure will remove both the bearing, race and seal at the same time.

The purpose for using brass is that it is softer than the steel you will be working on. Brass will not mar or dent the hub in case your hammering gets a little wild or in case your punch slips. Don't be afraid to put a little mojo on the punch at least until the bearing breaks away from its seat.

I recommend that you grease pack new Timken bearings for reinstallation.

Let me know how you come out. Highest regards!

Larry Langley
Austin, Texas
 
Larry Langley said:
Hi fine69! Removing the front wheel bearings is a very easy job to do. Go to an auto parts or hardware store and get a brass punch 1/2" or 5/8" in diameter.
If you run your finger around the inside edge of either inner or outer bearing race, you will feel two indentations or hollowed out areas 180 degrees apart in the hub itself that were designed for the purpose of placing the punch in. Insert the punch into the hub from the opposite end from the bearing race you wish to remove. Place the punch in the hollowed out area with the end of the punch resting on the edge of the bearing race you wish to remove. Briskly hammer the punch while firmly holding the punch against the edge of the race. Alternate sides as the bearing assembly starts to move outward so that it doesnt get jammed in sideways. Methodically hammer the punch evenly on each side of the races until it just pops out of the hub. If you haven't yet removed the grease seals inserted into the hub ends right next to the bearings - this procedure will remove both the bearing, race and seal at the same time.

The purpose for using brass is that it is softer than the steel you will be working on. Brass will not mar or dent the hub in case your hammering gets a little wild or in case your punch slips. Don't be afraid to put a little mojo on the punch at least until the bearing breaks away from its seat.

I recommend that you grease pack new Timken bearings for reinstallation.

Let me know how you come out. Highest regards!

Larry Langley
Austin, Texas
Larry,

Thanks for the great info. I'll certainly try it out. One other question... how did you install the new races. Don't they need to machine-pressed in?

Thanks again.
 
fine69 said:
Larry,

Thanks for the great info. I'll certainly try it out. One other question... how did you install the new races. Don't they need to machine-pressed in?

Thanks again.

Drive them in CAREFULLY using a small hammer and the OLD races against the new ones. Move the hammer from side to side as you tap to keep them going in straight.
 
Ah... that makes perfect sense!!! Thanks again.
 

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