Radiator CFM?

[masraum]

I'm glad you got the temp thing worked out.
Is the starter new or old? Does the starter have a heatshield on it. Just the other day I was watching a show on Speedvision that addressed the problem of headers and starters. They suggested, using a heat shield, making sure you had on of the high torque Chevy/GM starters, converting to one of the new small diameter high torque starters (farther from the heat), and also making sure the wiring was in good shape.
I've read and heard over and over again that the header wrap causes the headers to rust faster than without. I would probably try adding a thin sheet metal shield before I wrapped the exhaust, but that's just me.
Also, make sure that you don't have hot air coming out of your vents if you still have heat. If you do then you need a shutoff valve in your heater core feed hose.
Just my thoughts, educated, but no expert,

Steve

 

[sscam69]

The wires are in good shape, i know because i had to replace the old wires.

I am getting a heat shield for the starter. I think its the stock starter. There have been so many changes done to my car that unless i changed it i assume that it has been changed or modified somehow. Believe you me thats not the greatest feeling!

The wrap is only temporary. She will be modified again.
She will be like that for at least another year or so at least until i graduate from school.

My girlfriend complains that her feet burn and you can feel the heat through the transmission tunnel so thats the reason for the wrap. I am also looking to buy insulation for the interior of the car, especially the trans tunnel.

My goal is for her to be able to burn Vipers with not problem and still be a good daily driver but that won't happen until after i am out of school.

After i push her really hard she dies on me. What could cause this?

 

[69MyWay]

You push it hard and it dies. Do you mean that right after a WOT (wide open throttle) as you let off it stalls? Is it only when it is hot and you have been beating the tar out of it that it will suddently quit? Will it do it cold and hot?

Sounds like a possible float level off in the carb-could be a coild going bad, getting hot, and not making good fire until it cools down. Could be vapor lock on the carb.

Is it really hard to crank after it quits? Does it stink like gas, or do you have to pump it a lot to get it to fire?

Just give us some more good explicit details.

BTW-Back when I had my 74, I had a little hottie girlfriend here in Florida. When we would come home from the beach in the afternoon, she would get so hot that she would curl her very long legs all up on that little seat some how. It was the funniest thing. My a/c was broke and I did not know enough about them at the time to fix them---so--you know how I fixed it??????

Traded it in on at that time a nearly new 85. What a mistake! Not that the 85 was a bad thing, just that I eventually lost interest in her anyway, and the 85 is not worth what that rocken 74 would be right now.

 

[sscam69]

Okay let me respond with the best detail as possible, mind you i have only have had the car for two 3 days and have not really been able to get the pattern yet but here it goes.

If i push her , no matter in what gear, up to about 3500 to 4500 at WOT and then let of the gas she will slowly die out.

Now there is something else associated with this. I think the starter is getting hot and wont crank after a hard push. Sometimes she does sometimes she doesn't. I am going to get a thermal blanket or a good heat shield, whatever i can find locally due to the fact shipping is iffy right now with what is going on in New York.

When she does crank it takes a little bit of cranking. When i put her in gear and driver her normally and i come to a stop she seems fine. This is after only one push not after "i beat the tar out of her" i just got her i don't want to push the car to the max just yet.

I do have to pump to get her to fire and it takes a good 3 or 4 seconds compared to 1 when she is fine.

Another thing i have noticed. When i crank her in the morning or after a long wait, for instance i drive her in the morning but don't run her til the late evening she will idle at about 200 to 300 rpm and after a few minutes she goes up to about 600-700 rpm.

Or she will idle at 900 and then when i turn on the lights she will drop to about 600 rpm. I checked the vacuum and she pulls about 13-13.5 in Hg at idle.

Well thats the best i can describe the condition that she is in. I will have till tommorow then on Tuesday i will be taking back so that the mechanic can put the rear bushings on her and change the differential. She is going up to 3500 rpms doing 70 and at the moment thats not very economical. She reads 10mph more that what she is doing.


Any help in determining what she is doing would be greatly appreciated!

sscam69

 

[69MyWay]

Okay, first for giggles and grins. Locate the ground strap/wire from the right front side of the block and make sure that it is tight and secure all the way to the frame.

Second, I think it is in the carb. You either have some trash/water/contamination down inside that will let fuel pull through at WOT but not at idle, or as you roll off WOT. And or, float levels or accelerator pump.

Have the mechanic go back and fine set the carb and ensure the fuel pump is delivering adequate pressure.

It is common for that ground strap to be forgotten or not tightened all the way. It is easy to forget about since you don't have the battery right up front to be aware of. A loose block ground strap will make it hard to start (slow or now starter action) from time to time.

Let us know what the mechanic finds in the carb.