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Question: Radiator

marinucci

New member
Joined
Sep 24, 2010
Messages
4
Location
vancouver
Im replacing radiator in 87 vette. Should i just put another ordinary one in? Or are there advantages to the ones that cost over one thousand dolllars and are alumninum, such as better performance. Can anyone help with the dos and donts of radiators?
 
Should i just put another ordinary one in? Or are there advantages to the ones that cost over one thousand dolllars
These are the prefered choice of most C4 owners looking for a superior radiator and can be had for $450
Note This doubles the cooling capacity of the original single row units.
DeWitts - Product Detail

Matched with a higher flowing fan will have all the cooling you need for way less than 1K
DeWitts - Product Detail
 
Im replacing radiator in 87 vette. Should i just put another ordinary one in? Or are there advantages to the ones that cost over one thousand dolllars and are alumninum, such as better performance. Can anyone help with the dos and donts of radiators?


Do yourself a HUGE favor.....
and save a ton of money.

Look for Engineered Cooling Products. Another member here bought their radiator, and so did I. That has to be the best $250 that I ever spent on my Corvette. Its just as solid and nice as the "big name" places that you see in catalogs, its larger than stock, and LOTS more efficient.

My temps with a full brass radiator were running 230+ with a/c in 100 degree ambient temps. Now, same conditions might get to 200. As long as I keep moving my temps sit in the 189-195 range...with a/c.

I recently looked at a new "brand" radiator that someone else bought for $600.....its the same as mine and I have $350 left in my pocket....:D
 
How did you end up with a brass radiator in your '87 ?

many yrs ago I had the stock unit get damaged from something hitting it so it was not repairable. The only replacement that was available at the time was this brass aftermarket. Living in Ventura it was more than adequate. Even later in the summer inPhx it was ok....but along the Gulf Coast with the heavy thick humid air...it did'nt stand a chance. Because the motor was not stock and always had a tendency to run warm, this enviroment was just too much. In theory the brass is more efficient than aluminum, but its also thicker, and LOTS heavier. So, any efficiency was lost by the thicker heavier metal that held heat longer.

Note:
The aluminum that I bought is bigger (double row) and the rubber mounts have to be cut out about 1/2" so they will fit the bigger radiator. Thats no big deal...a razor did the work in seconds. I'd advise anyone to test fit the blocks to see how much and where to cut. I bought a spare set (just in case) but that was not necessary. The top shroud still fit in place perfectly. The increased cooling was dramatic with a 180 thermostat. As long as there is airflow....its stable. I also installed a contemporary a/c condensor at the same time. BigMouth airdam completes the package.
No doubt the best money I ever spent on the car. With the a/c running, the engine wants to stay right around 100 degrees over ambient.
 
Do yourself a HUGE favor.....
Look for Engineered Cooling Products.

Hey boomdriver do you have a website I could not find one so far.

Oh ya I should get my Vett back on the the end of this comming month with any luck.

Still saving for a new transmission.

But the Vett runs almost have the Cam broken in Ha Ha dove it 25 feet before I found out the old transmission was bad back up fine slips better going Fwd Ha Ha plus when pulled the Transmission pan it was not pretty full of clucth plates.

Oh yea sorry about Hi jacking you thread.
 
Hey boomdriver do you have a website I could not find one so far.

Oh ya I should get my Vett back on the the end of this comming month with any luck.

Still saving for a new transmission.

But the Vett runs almost have the Cam broken in Ha Ha dove it 25 feet before I found out the old transmission was bad back up fine slips better going Fwd Ha Ha plus when pulled the Transmission pan it was not pretty full of clucth plates.

Oh yea sorry about Hi jacking you thread.

Sure...I found the link. I'm happy to pass this along :beer
Aluminum Radiator Corvette 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989: eBay Motors (item 390244217565 end time Oct-04-10 11:37:35 PDT)
 
The stock radiator cools just fine, there is no need to spend extra money on a fancy radiator.
 
The stock radiator cools just fine, there is no need to spend extra money on a fancy radiator.


$209 is too expensive ?

Whats a stock radiator cost from the dealership?

Maybe I should have gone there.:chuckle
 
For a stock engine in a C4 which is driven normally, a stock radiator or an aftermarket OE replacement unit works quite well in normal climates and works ok in very hot climates provided...

1) The rest of the cooling system is in good condition.
2) The cooling fans are working right
3) The space in the cooling stack between the HVAC condenser and the radiator is clear of debris
4) The top front of the radiator is clear of debris
5) The stock front air dam fully-functional
6) The engine is run on premium fuel

Rockauto.com sells the Spectra Premium replacement radiator for an early C4 for less than 100 bucks. I've used Spectra Premium radiators in some of my vehicle applications and I get them from Rockauto.com

Now, it is true that there are many aftermarket cooling upgrades.

But all of the above 1-6 need to be present first.

DeWitts has the best stuff as far as higher-capacity aluminum radiators.

Other mods which work with a bigger radiator are:

1) a 180° thermostat
2) low/no antifreez coolant
3) DEI Radiator Relief or Red Line Water Wetter coolant additive
4) lower fan on temperatures, either a lower temp. fan switch or a change in ECM calibration
 
I have had experience with three different Corvettes and, each has had issues with the OE radiator leaking where it seams to the 'plastic' sides.....Roger.
 
All the aluminum core/plastic tank radiators I have or had over the years have never leaked at the joint between the tank and core.

Not saying it never happens, I'm just saying that in my cases, all of which had over 100,000 miles on the radiators, there never was leakage. All of these applications were not racing or street high-performance, they were "daily driver" vehicles in normal duty cycles.

When you noted leakage, why didn't you try tightening the crimps?
 
All the aluminum core/plastic tank radiators I have or had over the years have never leaked at the joint between the tank and core.

Not saying it never happens, I'm just saying that in my cases, all of which had over 100,000 miles on the radiators, there never was leakage. All of these applications were not racing or street high-performance, they were "daily driver" vehicles in normal duty cycles.

When you noted leakage, why didn't you try tightening the crimps?

I did. It didn't stop the leakage.....Roger.
 
Im thinking about buying the Rock Auto Liland 2 row radiator.
Any have any experience with this radiator?
Thanks,
Chris
 
Im thinking about buying the Rock Auto Liland 2 row radiator.
Any have any experience with this radiator?
Thanks,
Chris
With the thicker core ya might have to do some modifications,this is for the De Wits.
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0164/0230/files/A90_Instructions.pdf?836833825309578185
Im thnking of a up grade this summer.I havent made my mind up yet on what radiator to go with.
Im in Williamstown btw.Im curious tho,did you have a Turbo TA for sale awhile back on CL ?
 
Hello,

Installed last weekend. It works great, but...i bought SI TS-136 fan switch hoping itd come on at 205, off at 185. It actually comes on at 225, off at 210. I had to trim some rubber from radiator isolators, but much nicer than what was in it. I also installed 180 hi flo stat.

No, never owned a turbo TA...if i did, id try to hold on to it. Those are cool.
 
20190323_140651.jpg
 

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