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re:shocks

Joined
Nov 12, 2003
Messages
104
Location
York, Pa
Corvette
1988 convertible-blue pearl
re:shocks

How do you torque down a bilstein shock when the center shaft turns with the nut. I'm thinking about jacking up the shock so its compressed to see if that helps. Anyone know to lock the shaft or do I have a bad shock?
 
Ken said:
There's a slot for a screwdriver, right? ;)
I don't know but my torque wrench fits over the top anyway so I wouldnt be able to use the slot and the torque wrench. Now you got me curious. I'l check that tomorrow. If there is a slot I'll just snug it up and forget it.
Hey, since you're still awake, let me tell you something goofy. Right after I bought my 88 (Oct 2003) I bought a set of Bosch +4 at Advance Auto. Last week the car starts missing so I pull the plugs and find one has a broken ceramic insulator. They have a lifetime warranty so I go back to Advance to see if I can get my money back. The clerk is a real car guy. He asks me about my car then asks if I have cast iron or aluminum heads, I tell him aluminum. He shakes his head, goes and gets 2 boxes of +4s off the rack, takes one out, lays it next to one of mine and asks if I see any difference. The new one was at least 1/2" or more longer on the firing end. He said whoever sold me the plug gave me the ones for the cast iron heads. I've been driving that car for over a yr with the wrong plugs. Actually, it did real good. I traded him for the a set of correct ones but till I got thru putting them in it was too late to test drive. Do you think if they were too short it would have anything to do with the one breaking. I'm thinking the fuel wasn't detonating evenly or something. All the plugs were full of carbon. It seems to idle a little smoother now.
 
Use a screwdriver and wrench to snug it down. Then use the torque wrench to get it to specs.
 
They make a special socket for the top of the shock about $45.00.

You hold the nut and the socket turns the shaft.
 
When I got a set of Z51 Bilsteins for my 87 lat year, the top of the shock rod had a recess for a Torx wrench. I just inserted the Torx wrench and held it while I turned the nut. I tightened it untin the upper bushing squeezee out to where it was even with the metal washers. Still sitting in the same spot after a year of autocrossing and track use.
 
all better now

The top end is indeed designed for a torx socket and once I got it a little bit snug I was then able to use the torque wrench to tighten to the 19 ft lbs the service manual calls for. What a difference. Its a wonder those shocks weren't rattling around they were so loose compared to now. Thanks everybody.
 
Where did you get those Bilsteins and how much?

I just purchased a 1988 Convertible and need to replace the factory gas shocks too.

Thanks

Steve
 
I called Bilstein and they told me Auto Zone was their main outlet so I called Auto Zone and they had them for the next day. I think they were about $100 each. Congratulations on the 88 convertible.
 
Thanks Guys

The question now is whether the Z52 option code includes the Z51 suspension components.

Anyone have any ideas otherwise I'm gonna end up with the wrong shocks.

Steve
 
stevec2 said:
Thanks Guys

The question now is whether the Z52 option code includes the Z51 suspension components.

Anyone have any ideas otherwise I'm gonna end up with the wrong shocks.

Steve

I've heard of people putting Z51 shocks on a Z52 car but I'm not sure you won't have problems. (I'd like to know since I have a Z52 as well)

Has anyone done this?

;help
 
Steve, the Z52 option does not include the same shocks as the Z51, that is the major difference between the two packages.

People were complaining about the harsh ride in the Z51, so they put a softer shock in the Z52, while keeping the steering ratio and performance rear gear, and HD cooling.

I don't see any reason why you could not put different shocks in the Z52.

Mart
 
Thanks

I'll order up a set of non-Z51 then - I'm not after a balls-out racer - just something to stop the pitching :)

Steve
 
There is a vey good argument for going with FE-1 softer shocks for better handling, as a more compliant suspension without roll doesn't lose contact over bumpy surfaces.

I found them to drastically improve handling and ride over the 44k originals.
 
What you want out of your suspension usually determines how stiff the ride will be. (tight handling = stiff / comfy ride = soft)
 
tlong I agree - harder shocks are better on a track where road surface is better and less bumps as they provide firmer control of the attitude of the vehicle relative to the wheels - however on the roads around here they make the car so darn uncomfortable due to the holes, cracks, bumps and generally poor state of repair of the roads that you can actually feel the car 'hop' around the corners when you hit a bump. So I'm going for the standard 'soft' shocks for more comfort and better roadholding.

Steve
 
FE-1 supension will still jar your kidneys and illicit sideways glances from the old lady. Soft is not the right word. Softer?
 

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