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Rear Bearing Hubs

Joined
Mar 9, 2009
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When I made my '71 "road worthy" in 2010 I replaced the rear spindle bearings and filled the hubs with #2 grease and noticed something odd. The right side bearing spacer had been damaged by a cutting torch so I replaced it and I also found the hub had an internal volume that was at least twice as big as the left hub. Were different sizes of hubs used at some time? Maybe from different vendors? As the bearing spacer had been damaged by a cutting torch I'm wondering if the hub had also been damaged and got replaced. Anyone know the history of C3 bearing hubs?
 
When I made my '71 "road worthy" in 2010 I replaced the rear spindle bearings and filled the hubs with #2 grease and noticed something odd. The right side bearing spacer had been damaged by a cutting torch so I replaced it and I also found the hub had an internal volume that was at least twice as big as the left hub. Were different sizes of hubs used at some time? Maybe from different vendors? As the bearing spacer had been damaged by a cutting torch I'm wondering if the hub had also been damaged and got replaced. Anyone know the history of C3 bearing hubs?

They are called bearing supports and there were variations in them from 63-82. The 63's had no webbing in between the legs. The 64-74? had small radius legs, the later ones had larger leg ends. The bores on the earlier supports had a well inside, the later supports had a straight bore, holding less grease. While the grease is applied and packed into the bearings I still put some grease in the well. Other will tell you it won't do any good as it won't draw into the bearings.

Most of the damage to trailing arm parts is caused by previous mechanics.
 
I always fill the bearing hubs about 90% full because when #2 grease gets warm it liquefies and keeps the bearing lubricated. Many years ago it was very common for mechanics to put a ball or roller bearing into a container of grease, heat the grease on a hot plate to it's melting point (liquid), then cool the grease back to it's original thick state. Then remove the bearing and install it.
 
I always fill the bearing hubs about 90% full because when #2 grease gets warm it liquefies and keeps the bearing lubricated. Many years ago it was very common for mechanics to put a ball or roller bearing into a container of grease, heat the grease on a hot plate to it's melting point (liquid), then cool the grease back to it's original thick state. Then remove the bearing and install it.




Yeah, but did you know that left hand threaded bearings need less grease than right hand threaded bearings?

The grease on that side also melts a lot quicker too since the driver loads that side of the vehicle.

Knowledge is a good thing.
 
The rear bearing type is very similar to that used on the front wheel bearings. The operating loads are similar as well.

Question:If the grease were to liquefy at normal operating temps, how come it doesn't leave the front bearing area and fill the dust cup?

Answer: neither the front nor rear bearings run anywhere near hot enough for such a thing to happen.

TBTR once again shows his affinity to fairy tails. :chuckle
 
http://www.toptenreviews.com/home/kitchen/best-hot-plates/

Not many will heat to 500F.


None that I know of. 🙂
 
I always fill the bearing hubs about 90% full because when #2 grease gets warm it liquefies and keeps the bearing lubricated. Many years ago it was very common for mechanics to put a ball or roller bearing into a container of grease, heat the grease on a hot plate to it's melting point (liquid), then cool the grease back to it's original thick state. Then remove the bearing and install it.

Sounds like a good idea. Why not try this old trick today?
 
Vettehead Mikey
Got them wrong as usual?

Literally our so-called mechanical engineer doesn't know diddly squat about cone bearings, AKA tapered roller bearings. However, what did I say that you didn't already know??
:chuckle

TBTR: Have a clue what K factor means??
 
Cause TBTR has got his facts wrong. Again. The extra grease will NOT melt as he assumes. It will just sit in an off-balance lump.

This stuff was beaten to death (and I thought buried) almost 50 years ago when the cars were new.

OK, you are saying this was debunked some 50 yrs ago? When I read TBTR's comment, it sounded like a good way to grease every bit of the bearing surface area. Well, this is the first time I have heard of this. Never too late to learn, and unlearn something even when I'm on the near side of 60.
 
OK, you are saying this was debunked some 50 yrs ago?

In a nutshell, yes. This, and the silly variety of tools that supposedly regreased the bearings while in situ. :eyerole If this was a good thing for the rear bearings, why aren't the same practices used on the fronts?

The bearings don't need/benefit from extra grease nor will packing the housing transport the grease to the bearing anyway.
 
OK, you are saying this was debunked some 50 yrs ago? When I read TBTR's comment, it sounded like a good way to grease every bit of the bearing surface area. Well, this is the first time I have heard of this. Never too late to learn, and unlearn something even when I'm on the near side of 60.



Yeah, this is another toobroke to unlearn fast. Who knows where he even comes up with these ideas?

Use toobroke for comedy only.
 

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