GTR1999
Well-known member
Hi everyone,
I have been reporting on another site about rebuilding T arms and have been asked about it here in the past. I figure I'll post some pictures for those interested to see how I do the job or to see what's involved if you're thinking about doing it yourself. Let me know what you think and if you want me to do the same for the differential out of this car. It's a 69 BB coupe 4 spd 336 rear end. It's going to be rebuilt and I was asked to do the rear end, T arms, and 1/2 shafts.
Gary
Here what I got in- original arms. The Left was worked on and messed up by someone in the recent past. They wrecked the innder bearing as well as the spindle by not knowing how to work on corvette T arms.
Here are what the frt bushings looked like:
Drill out the flared sleeve that holds the bushings in place. You only have to remove the flared portion not drill through the whole sleeve:
With the sleeve out then I use a air chisel to pop them out. You can use a hand chisel too,just watch your hands!!
Stripped arms ready to paint prep
For these I wire brushed them,welded the ends to prevent separation,stripped to metal, ane used Eastwoods encapulator. Normally I use POR15 and like they way the POR sets up and finishes better-but you have to top coat it.
Arms painted, threads cleaned up on studs,sometimes you have to replace the studs,these were still good.
New Bushings installed
Parts ready to assemble
New plate,SS shoes and Hrdw
Set up tool and new Brg's shim spacer
Checking endplay to see what the shim size needs to be. I set the endplay to .001-.002" Do this test without grease only use spindle oil on the brg's
Select the closet shim to get where you want. I have never had one setup that a shim from the kits would get me to the range I want.
What I do to "dial them in" is to fit each shim to the size I want by using a surface grinder.
Here is the shimmed spindle installed.
Here is the special tool I use. I bored the ID to fit over the spindle without binding. I can stamp corvette on it and sell it for $100 like the catalog tools or you can go to any electrical supplier and some EMT!
Another tool- old rotor I cut a flat in to use when I torque the spindle nut to 100+ ft/lbs to align the cotter pin hole in the slotted nut.
Here is the cotter pin
I think I'm out of room to post anymore pic's. I counter sink the new rotor rivet holes and use 3/8-24 flat heads to bolt the rotor to the spindle and then check runout. Shim to get it under .002" runout.
Now go out there are rip into your arms-LOL!!
Gary
I have been reporting on another site about rebuilding T arms and have been asked about it here in the past. I figure I'll post some pictures for those interested to see how I do the job or to see what's involved if you're thinking about doing it yourself. Let me know what you think and if you want me to do the same for the differential out of this car. It's a 69 BB coupe 4 spd 336 rear end. It's going to be rebuilt and I was asked to do the rear end, T arms, and 1/2 shafts.
Gary
Here what I got in- original arms. The Left was worked on and messed up by someone in the recent past. They wrecked the innder bearing as well as the spindle by not knowing how to work on corvette T arms.
Here are what the frt bushings looked like:
Drill out the flared sleeve that holds the bushings in place. You only have to remove the flared portion not drill through the whole sleeve:
With the sleeve out then I use a air chisel to pop them out. You can use a hand chisel too,just watch your hands!!
Stripped arms ready to paint prep
For these I wire brushed them,welded the ends to prevent separation,stripped to metal, ane used Eastwoods encapulator. Normally I use POR15 and like they way the POR sets up and finishes better-but you have to top coat it.
Arms painted, threads cleaned up on studs,sometimes you have to replace the studs,these were still good.
New Bushings installed
Parts ready to assemble
New plate,SS shoes and Hrdw
Set up tool and new Brg's shim spacer
Checking endplay to see what the shim size needs to be. I set the endplay to .001-.002" Do this test without grease only use spindle oil on the brg's
Select the closet shim to get where you want. I have never had one setup that a shim from the kits would get me to the range I want.
What I do to "dial them in" is to fit each shim to the size I want by using a surface grinder.
Here is the shimmed spindle installed.
Here is the special tool I use. I bored the ID to fit over the spindle without binding. I can stamp corvette on it and sell it for $100 like the catalog tools or you can go to any electrical supplier and some EMT!
Another tool- old rotor I cut a flat in to use when I torque the spindle nut to 100+ ft/lbs to align the cotter pin hole in the slotted nut.
Here is the cotter pin
I think I'm out of room to post anymore pic's. I counter sink the new rotor rivet holes and use 3/8-24 flat heads to bolt the rotor to the spindle and then check runout. Shim to get it under .002" runout.
Now go out there are rip into your arms-LOL!!
Gary
