Rear hubs or other?

[Mart]

I finally got the rearend off the ground and I was checking for play in the rear wheels, when I grab the wheels at 3-9 there is little or no movement but if I grab it at 12-6 there is movement.

Is this a bearing?

Mart

 

[G Winter]

I would think with a bad bearing you would have movement both ways.

 

[ZRXMAX]

I finally got the rearend off the ground and I was checking for play in the rear wheels, when I grab the wheels at 3-9 there is little or no movement but if I grab it at 12-6 there is movement.

Is this a bearing?

Mart

If you want a precise runout measurement you will need a dial indicator... Remove wheel and replace a couple of lugnuts to hold the rotor tight... Use the dial indicator at 6 pm on the rotor to check the play... I don't know what the acceptable limit is... you will have to wait for a better responce or find the specs in a manual... some play is normal... if they are getting bad they will rumble, growl, and make your mind a little bit suspect !
Good luck !

 

[Mart]

I see you just answered my question from the other thread I hijacked.

No noise coming from them but it does seem loose.

 

[ZRXMAX]

I see you just answered my question from the other thread I hijacked.
Yeah... it is easy to get lost around here...

No noise coming from them but it does seem loose.

Just keep an eye on it, and a ear... before you know it you will be an expert on wheel bearings !

 

[jim coulter]

Check the strut rod that runs from the knuckle to the rear end and make sure its not worn and loose. Mine had some competition ones on it that wore at the rearend end of the rod. After putting the originals on it, it was good to go for alignment. Mine was tight except at 12 and 6 positions.

 

[Mart]

How do I check the strutrod?

 

[brimis]

You should have no play when you move the wheel, if you do the wheel bearing is on its way out. Better to repalce it now before it takes out the u-joints.
When buying new bearings don't make the mistake I made by buying a cheap $100.00 bearing. I replaced two bearing in less then 200 miles, thats right 200 miles.
After the second I told CC I wanted an AC Delco. I have an AC Delco on the left and a Napa on the right and the car has been fine for over a year.
How many miles on your car? The believe the bearings are made to last 160,000 on average driving.

 

[Vis Croceus]

How many miles on your car? The believe the bearings are made to last 160,000 on average driving.

The original seems to be around a 75-100k item from the posts I've seen on CF. Aftermarket ones reported failing in as little as 20k

 

[Mart]

I have 137,000 on the vette and I think these are the original hubs.

Oh well what's another $600.00

I just tried to move the wheel and check the spindle rods and they seem tight, when I move the wheel nothing else moves.

 

[m nordin]

Mart: When you check for play make sure that you press in th e brake pads slightly and make sure parking brake is not "hiding" some play. If you feel a play in 9-3 pos - check the toe in rod (correct term?) My inner joints are worn and they are of course not replaceable. I will build new rods with uniball joints instead.

BR

MN

 

[Mart]

Well I went and picked up two rear hubs today, ouch that hurt!!! I called the the place last week and they said $250 per (CA). I called again today and they said $375 :ugh WTF...

I told him I could get them for 250 at other places, then he asked who I worked for, I said no one, meaning no auto repair shop. He then said I don't think I can give you a better price. So as I was saying have I nice day, he says hang on a sec, then comes back with the 250 price.

Are these places trying to rip us off big time or what.

And after letting the liquid wrench sit on the spring bolt over night it came right off, wow were the rubber bushings ever mush.

The size of every nut and bolt on this thing really ****es me off, I had to buy an 18, and 21 mm wrench and socket, just to find out that I need a 23mm for the other end of the control arms, I have every size surrounding these. What a P*** off. Thanks GM.

Oh well gotta go buy a 23 mm wrench. Later

Mart

 

[brimis]

Wait until you have to go out and buy a 36 MM to crack the spindle nut! Your not working on a 85 Chrysler or 92 Ford pickup, your working on a Corvette! I bought my Corvette April 2003 and have been working on it since day one!
Every time I walk out the door my wife asks where are you going and I tell her, I'm going to Sears to buy a tool!

 

[Mart]

I borrowed a 36mm hub socket from the local Canadian tire, they loan tools, NO COST.

 

[ZRXMAX]

I borrowed a 36mm hub socket from the local Canadian tire, they loan tools, NO COST.

Glad to hear the frustration was tempered a bit with a free tool loan... Since I have all the big sizes in SAE I often find I can use an SAE in place of a metric... Not always is that the case... it just depends on the size and how close they are...
Good Luck

 

[Mart]

Does anyone have any tips on loosening the bolts for the upper and lower control rods at the knuckle.

There is just no room to bend a wrench.

 

[Achilles]

I just finished replacing the wheel hubs on my 86 based on my mechanics advice. Bought 2 AC/Delcos from Eckler's for less than he was going to charge to replace 1 with an aftermarket. Tight quarters for working on, but job was easy and went smooth. I too made several trips to Sears. Made a good excuse to buy a new fancy torque wrench and a HUGE socket for the spindle.

However, I still have movement from 3-9. 12-6 seems tight. I had momma wiggle the tire while I looked underneath for movement. Looks to me like the control arms may be shot. I don't see any other way that the wheel could be moving from side to side. Actually, I would say that it is closer to a 4-10 direction. Now waiting for the new poly's to come in the mail. I'm wondering if this was the problem all a long and was mis-diagnosed. You know I don't know much about working on Vettes, but I'm finding out that most mechanics don't either.

Good luck

 

[Mart]

The hubs I picked up are of good quality "SKF"

How was the spindle nut to loosen.

 

[Achilles]

Does anyone have any tips on loosening the bolts for the upper and lower control rods at the knuckle.

There is just no room to bend a wrench.

Sorry, I forgot to reply. I haven't really gotten into it yet with the control arms. But I do have an air rachet and compressor. I Hope that does the trick.

 

[Achilles]

The hubs I picked up are of good quality "SKF"

How was the spindle nut to loosen.

Spindle nut was a piece of cake. The hardest part is getting the torx bolts off just due to the restricted work area. Once I broke them loose, I hooked up the air rachet to back them out. I don't know if the air rachet is strong enough to break them loose or not... Never tried it. Oh, I put just a dab of Mobil 1 grease on the spindle shaft & a slight film on the back of the bearing seal of the hub before I put it on. I don't know why, it just seemed like the right thing to do. I've heard of people having trouble getting their old hubs off. So...