Rear Spring Bushings

[Bob Chadwick]

I'm going to replace the end bushings and rods on the rear spring and have read the various posts on procedure and safety. Is there any reason to pull the spring all the way off and replace the center hardware? I'm told that there is a rubber bushing there as well, though I'm not sure.

I'm not going to replace spring so I wouldn't remove it otherwise.

Bob

 

[77-4speed]

Bob,

As you know, Bullit and I just took my rear spring off. There is no reason to remove the spring all the way. And although my memory may be fuzzy, I don't remember seing a bushing on the center mounting hardware? Are you going to use the longer style bolts for more ride height adjustability?

Russ

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Russ,

I was going to go with the stock bushings and bolt though the price difference was only a couple of dollars. I'm not planning on doing anything with the front end and just want to maintain the original look that it came with but perhaps I want to have some flexibility if I change my mind later.

What are you going to do?

Bob

 

[77-4speed]

Bob,

I've been looking around town for some 8" Grade 8 bolts to use instead of the stock ones. That way, if I decide to add a fiberglass spring or if the car sits higher with the new shocks I'll be able to bring the ride height back down. I figure it's better to have the flexibility. I personally don't like the "rear in the air" look.

I'm probably just going to reuse my old washers and cups and I'll order the poly bushings from VBP. I don't really see any reason to replace any of the hardware except for the bolt and of course a nylon filled nut.

I'm going to Home depot and Lowes today to see if they carry the 8" Grade 8 bolt. I'll let you know if I find something.

Russ

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Russ,

VBP had the kit with the longer bolts, though I don't have the catalogue with me and they may have been with the poly bushings.

Bob

 

[77-4speed]

Yeah,

I saw that they had the kit with the longer bolts, but I don't want to pay $10 extra for a $1.50 part. I know it's only $10 but it's the principality! If I don't find them anywhere then I'll just order the kit from VBP.

Have you changed your mind then?

Russ

 

[Bob Chadwick]

I just took a look in the catalogue. $15.95 for the bushings and $24.95 for the kit. Add in the wear and tear and its a wash with going to look for a bolt. If you were driving the vette, it would be more fun but also even more expensive.

I don't know if you noticed but the longer kits are for later model cars. I wonder why they don't have longer ones for the pre 84.

I'll likely stick with the stock 8" and likely replace the rear camber strut rods at the same time.

I went by and saw my car today. The whole front end was out of it. I was supposed to get it back tomorrow but my guy has to find a place to have the bushings pressed in. His guy took the week off.

In either event, I'll have some pictures to post tomorrow evening.

Bob

 

[Stingray72]

Inspect the rear diff. cover for cracks around the spring mount bolt holes. When I got my vette, one of the rear bolt holes had a crack all the way through the thinnest part, and the threads in another bolt hole were completely stripped!

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Will do.

 

[77-4speed]

Bob,

The 8 inch bolts are the long bolts! Stock bolts are only 6" or so. Check out this link (hopefully it works)

http://www.vettebrakes.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=32306

I found this by doing a product search for bolts in the C2-C3 category.

I agree that $10 is pretty much a wash but it's just the meiser in me! I guess it just boils me that they would charge $10 for 2$ worth of hardware. Guess you gotta pay to play though!

Russ

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Yes you do.

I got confused by the reference to grade and 8" bolts. Combined with the fact that the price was the same and I was totally lost.

Are you going with the poly on this component rather than the rubber?

Bob

 

[77-4speed]

Yup, poly for me. The price difference is negligible and after examining all of the bushings in the rear, these were the only ones (besides the crossmember bushings) that were actually worn out. I couldn't believe my eyes. My sway bar bushings and trailing arm bushings were both in really good shape. The only bushings that were actually crusty were the spring bolt cushions. So, I'll use poly here instead of rubber.


Russ

 

[Jack]

/Russ ... I'm going to Home depot and Lowes today to see if they carry the 8" Grade 8 bolt. I'll let you know if I find something.

I live in a much smaller community ... but our Lowe's doesn't stock Gr8 that long ... in fact ... no one in my vicinity does. I burned gallons of fuel & loads of patience when I searched for some while trying to construct a harmonic balancer install tool ... no one around here had the tool in stock either. I ended up ordering a tool ... & it's quite nice. We have a member here "redmist" who I believe was/still is in the high grade fastener business. If you have a buddy in plant/factory maintenance ... they may keep some on the shelf.
JACK:gap

 

[77-4speed]

Jack,

I have just come to the realization that you have. No one sells Grade 8 bolts longer than 6 inches. Actually, Sears hardware does, but the threading is only about an inch long so I don't think it will work. I guess I'll just pay the exorbatent (sp?) amount from vettebrakes and be done with it.

Bob,

When you replaced your rear shocks, were there any shock bushings that had to be replaced? I saw a photo on the Docrebuild site that listed some "shock grommets" for the lower rear shocks. I don't remember if I had these, and I can't find them in the vettebrakes catalogue.

Russ

 

[Bob Chadwick]

Russ,

All of the hardware came with mine. Bushings already pressed in and the replacement nuts, bolts and washers.

Bob

 

[77-4speed]

Cool,

That's what I thought. I guess Doc rebuild sells the bushings in case some NCRS wants to keep their original shocks and needs to replace the bushings.

Russ