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Rear Spring Installation

  • Thread starter Thread starter cool80
  • Start date Start date
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cool80

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Hi everyone, need a little advice on some issues. I am ready to install my old steel spring which I restored with new liners (with lip) from Eaton, painted and new center bolt. With the new liners installed, you need longer bolts, has anyone run into this problem?. I also need clarification on an installation proceedure. I have read where the three center bolts should remain loose until both sides of the spring are attached, car placed on the ground then tighten. What is the porpose? I have also read where not keeping the center bolts loose could cause the threaded ears on the rear end to break. I was going to install the spring by using two jacks and lifting each side together, keeping even tension on both sides. Any suggestion/advice would be helpfull.

cool80
 
That's correct - only tighten the spring retainer plate bolts to about 20 ft-lbs. initially, then wait until the full weight of the car is on the suspension before tightening them fully; trying to draw the spring up to flat using the three retainer plate bolts (or four on earlier cars) with no load on the spring can definitely break the rear ears off the carrier casting.
:beer
 
JohnZ is correct about waiting until the weight of the car is on the suspension before doing the final torque of the bolts. I replaced mine a couple years ago and was reminded of this. I did one side at a time and placed a C-clamp on the spring so the jack would not accidentily slide down the spring when jacking it up to place the end bolts in. Also have fun trying to lie under the car while it is down on the wheels with a torque wrench to tighten the center bolts.Mark
 

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