Rear Wheel Bearings Revisited

[chevyaddict]

Hi all! Long time no write. I've been researching the threads on here about how to change out the rear wheel bearings. looks drastically complicated. I have no such "dial indicators" and have no experience doing anything this intricate. I'm in Tucson, AZ so here are my questions:
1. Anyone that lives close enough to me want to help me out with this?
2. Is it possible to purchase an assembly from Ecklers or something that is intact that i could just bolt up and "go" so to speak to get around all these adjustment issues?
3. Anyone know of any GREAT mechanics in the Tucson/Phoenix AZ area that work specifically on vettes that I could trust? I never let anyone work on my cars but I know better to embark on something I shouldn't.
Thanks everyone!
Dawn

 

[chevyaddict]

Help!!!

No one knows of anyone 'round that does good work? Where are all my AZ buddies!!! At this point I can take the whole darn assembly off and even ship them to someone that knows what they are doing. I figure just buying all the necessary tools alone would cost more them me shipping these heavy things to someone to do.
HELP!!!!

 

[80convertible]

I've owned my vette for 6 years and basically do all the work myself. However, the rear bearings are one area I believe are best left to the professionals. I thought about doing this myself but did as much research as possible and came to the conclussion that this is best done by a professional. Like yourself I would of had to invest in all the right tools. I decided to purchase completely rebuilt trailing arms from Van Steel. They are recognized as experts in setting up rear bearings. This way I got rebuilt trailing arms including bearings, spindle and emergency brakes. This also included new rear rotors which were aligned (checked for runout). They even including shipping cost to me. I had to pay shipping for my cores back to them which is around $35.00 via FedEx ground. Total cost around $700.00 plus the $35.00 shipping but well worth it for all new or rebuilt stuff.

 

[chevyaddict]

THANKS! I checked out their website and they even have just the assemblies all nice and completed for $200 each.... That is perfect... that way I can just order them and do the install myself. This way I can insure others' keep their paws OFF! Thanks!

 

[Stingray6974]

Hi Dawn,

I rebuild trailing arms for $275 each. My rebuilds include Timken bearings and stainless steel brake hardware.

Mike
Classiccorvetteparts.

 

[chevyaddict]

Hi Dawn,

I rebuild trailing arms for $275 each. My rebuilds include Timken bearings and stainless steel brake hardware.

Mike
Classiccorvetteparts.

So, what you are saying is if I take the whole trailing arm, hub assembly and all off, leave everything in tact, send it to you, you will refurbish the whole darn thing for $275? Including setting the appropriate clearances and everything? I actually would almost prefer that because I want to keep original parts on this car as much as possible. I also would want to do both sides. How long would that take you do you think? I imagine its gonna be a heft shipping charge for that.

 

[Stingray6974]

Yes, that is what I am saying. As long as the main parts (trailing arm, bearing support, caliper bracket, flange, and spindle) are not damaged. I will true the spindle with less than .005 runout. More than that it will need to be replaced. All parts are media blasted and painted. Bearings are set up to .001-.002 end play and assembled with Mobil 1 grease. I personally do all the work. Usual time is 4-5 days.
If you check my website you'll see I have the lowest prices on brake and suspension parts.

Mike

 

[chevyaddict]

See... I believe I have FINALLY diagnosed the problem after all this time (the car was sitting for over a year before I started to reinvestigate everything). I believe the passenger side rear wheel bearing is bad. What happens is that from shifting from forward to reverse and back there is a MASSIVE clunk. And, when I make left hand turns it makes this really wierd like clinking nose. Also, when I apply the brake you can hear some strange stuff too. Now, the rearend and all the u-joints were replaced and are NEW. So its not any of those. So, what I just finally did this weekend was suspend the car, remove the tire and rotor, and force it to go forward and back. There is this really weird clunk and like a downward "drop" it is as if the rear wheel bearing itself is obliterated. This is all independent of the half shaft movement. So, I am pretty confident that the rear wheel bearing is bad. This afternoon I'm going to go do the same manipulation to the driver's side to see if the pattern doesn't repeat. If not then I'm sure that is it.

None of the parts are damaged... just the rear main bearings need to be redone. I would love for any and all other "wearable" parts to be replaced too. That way the WHOLE DARN REAREND will be nice and new! I'll check out your website right now!

 

[Stingray6974]

The best way to check wheel bearings is to jack it up by the frame. Grab the tire at 9 and 3 o'clock and wiggle it There should be a very small amount of play. If it clunks then you definitely have bearing problems. Push in hard on the tire at 12 o'clock. Have someone watch the halfshaft for in & out movement at the rear end.

Just re-read your last post. It looks like you have confirmed bad bearings.

Mike

 

[chevyaddict]

Well... see that is the thing. Just by grabbing it and doing that nothing appeared lose or "bad".... but I still suspect my intuition is correct.

Do you agree I should do both sides at once? Money is tight at the moment. Typically I would never even contemplate doing one side and not the other- except for the fact that the finances are NOT in abundance. If I can get away with one side for now that would be great. How about we continue this correspondence through regular email - email me at dawnh@u.arizona.edu. I looked at your website and didn't find an address readily. If you could send me that in an email that would be great. I'll pull this side off today and get it ready for shipping.

I'm assuming that I would send it (or them) to you for assessment first and then I'd pay or??? Let me know.
Thanks much!
Dawn

 

[chevyaddict]

HOLD THE FORT!!! I JUST looked and I think my brand new U-joint is bad!!! I'm taking it apart rightn ow to check!

 

[chevyaddict]

I can't believe it. This whole time I've been wondering what the heck the problem was... trusting my new u-joint parts.... and it was a faulty u-joint this whole time..... go figure. the lesson of the day is NEVER ASSUME!!! Thanks all

 

[Stingray6974]

Hi Dawn,

Did the u-joints fix the vette?

Mike

 

[chevyaddict]

I don't know! I just now about an hour ago found the joint locally... it is really weird as now that I look at them perhaps I didn't replace them with the rear end... I may be confusing that with the other 84 vette I had. Who knows. I'm going to replace all four though this week and hope to have her all sat back down to test! I'm sure that was it though. THANKS A MILLION! I will look you up when that dreaded task of rear bearings rears its ugly head!
Cheerio
Dawn

 

[wishuwerehere82]

Hey Dawn!

I thought you fell off the face of the earth since you posted last. U-joints are always a reasonable place to start looking first when you have noises. I thought like you did that they were replaced last time you had it apart, so that couldn't be the problem.
I hope that's it.
Great to hear from you again, and good luck fixing the problem.