rear wheel stud

[howie]

i have a c3 1978 and have a sheared rear wheel stud , is there a special way to get them out ??

 

[bill81vette]

Can you see the back of the stud,without removing the parking brake????
If so remove the wheel and beat it out,If not,unless you are planning to rebuild the rear wheels,Leave it alone.

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[GTR1999]

The studs are press fit into the spindle flanges and are knurled. To get them out once I have a spindle out I just drive them out with a hammer and punch but I would be careful of hammering on the flange in the arm as the force will be applied to the bearings as well. You might be able to rig up a c-clamp type of press to pop them out or support the flange then driving them out.

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

I'm not sure it's possible to install a new stud without disassembling the axle assembly. Not enough clearance.

 

[GTR1999]

I'm not sure it's possible to install a new stud without disassembling the axle assembly. Not enough clearance.

Mike, they can be done, same as going to larger 1/2-20's but it's PITA. Some guys cut the backing plate or pull the star wheels from the parking brake to access them. You have to angle in the stud to the hole then draw it up with some nuts on the stud. If the arms are going to be rebuilt then replace them all. Those are parts I change on every arm rebuild.

 

[mkapp7879]

Something I posted on another forum a few years back...................
"Did a search to see if I really needed to remove the rear spindle to replace a broken stud. The consensus seemed to be 'yes'

Well, didn't need to. Of course, removed the caliper and hung it up in the wheel well. Rotor removal was easy as someone in the past had removed it. One of my past projects was to bolt them back on with flathead allen screws. That made any future removals easy.
Rotated the broken stud to 6 oclock position.
Removed the parking brake adjuster.
Knocked the broken stud out without any effort at all.
Now...the replacement is 1 3/4" long, longer than the available space needed to get it back in. On an angle, it would reach the hole in the flange but the head was way too far down on the backing plate. Took it to my grinder and bevel ground the head a just little on one side only, just enough to make an angled flat spot that wouldn't want to dig into the backing plate. Refit the stud again with the bevel flat to the backing plate and it looked doable. Gave it a very light rap with a SMALL hammer and it popped right in!
Greased up a couple of flat washers and used a regular lugnut to pull it back into place.
I'd guess 20 minutes to get it back in and everything buttoned back up.
I had laid awake the night before thinking about pulling the spindle or bubbaing it up by drilling a hole in the backing plate! Turned out easy.
Hope this helps someone else out."

 

[GTR1999]

Yes those stock studs can be done as can the 1/2" but one word of advice to those considering the ARP 1/2-20 studs. I sometimes had to machine the face of the stud head and the OD to clear the shoes, I now do it on all installs. I machine the length down to stock length but it you are going to keep the 3" length it is going to be tricky. At that point I would pull the spindles and rebuild them. If you need the ARP studs because of power/usage you're probably going to want to know the bearings are new and setup correctly too.