Rebuild Suspension

[rodney25]

Hello All,

I have a 1975 convertable and want to rebuild the front and rear suspension. I have never done any suspension work but want to try to rebuild id myself. Can anyone recommend good paper, books or video's on how to do it step by step?


Thanks

 

[Crimson Thunder]

Check out vettebrakes.com

 

[Hib Halverson]

I am not aware of any books or video that covers C3 front and rear suspension work step-by-step.

The closest text to what you describe is the factory service manual for your model year. You can buy Service Manuals from Zip Products.

With the exception of the rear axle bearings, C3 front and rear suspension work requires a basic-to-intermediate level of automotive service expertise. Basic hand tools are also required and there are certain aspects of the work (such as pressing bushing in and out of control arms and replacing ball joints) which require special tools typical of a professional automotive shop some of which can be rented.

In addition, you'll need a good floor jack and a set of jack stands.

As for the rear axle bearings, I suggest, once you have the rear trailing arms off that you remove the bearing carriers and exchange them for rebuilt units. Zip Products sells both complete arms (new or rebuilt) or just the bearing carrier and brake (new or rebuilt.)

 

[bagger]

If I may add one more note, depending on the comfort of ride you're looking for, it will make a difference on whether you use rubber or poly bushings. I used poly on my 68 when I rebuilt the front and rear suspension and if the road is smooth the ride is smooth. If the road has one little bump in it, you'll feel every little bit of that bump. Just something to think about. Good luck with the rebuild.

 

[herminator]

I am not aware of any books or video that covers C3 front and rear suspension work step-by-step.

The closest text to what you describe is the factory service manual for your model year. You can buy Service Manuals from Zip Products.

With the exception of the rear axle bearings, C3 front and rear suspension work requires a basic-to-intermediate level of automotive service expertise. Basic hand tools are also required and there are certain aspects of the work (such as pressing bushing in and out of control arms and replacing ball joints) which require special tools typical of a professional automotive shop some of which can be rented.

In addition, you'll need a good floor jack and a set of jack stands.

As for the rear axle bearings, I suggest, once you have the rear trailing arms off that you remove the bearing carriers and exchange them for rebuilt units. Zip Products sells both complete arms (new or rebuilt) or just the bearing carrier and brake (new or rebuilt.)

Thanks for the tips on the rears, I am about to replace mine.

As for the fronts, I fall into that intermediate range and I had minimal problems rebuilding my front suspension and steering. Get a spring compressor (northern tools has a good one for not too much $$) and an air hammer (helps with removing OEM A-frame ball joints) and you should be able to do everything x press the bearings yourself (unless you are lucky enough to have a shop press). I used the Chevy shop manual for my 1973, a Chiltons book as a cross reference and the info that came with the stuff from Zip and it worked out OK. For the tie rod ends, I both measured them and counted the turns for the old ones coming off and the reinstall was plenty good to get it to a shop for an alignment after. Also, it NEVER hurts to make notes and take pictures to help you remember what went where, faced which direction, etc. Good luck.

 

[Crimson Thunder]

Most auto part stores will loan you a spring compressor. One less thing to buy.

 

[Whiteshadow89158]

If I had to do it again, I would definitely spend the extra cash to have the trailing arms rebuilt by someone else. If all you have are basic tools, then the trailing arm disassemble and reassemble is going to be a P.I.T.A.

 

[herminator]

Most auto part stores will loan you a spring compressor. One less thing to buy.

Just be careful, the one I got from O'reillys was a piece of s***. The style was wrong and the threads were stripped besides! Not knowing what style would work best, I took it thinking I was could use it anyway (they didn't have another one available) and it ended up making the job harder. Here is the one I bought, didn't cost much, not only worked perfect for the front springs on my '73, but I used it and a jack to help me install the new sway bar arm bolts that came with my poly bushings! Nothing else would compress the bushings enough until I improvised with this tool.

Performance Tool Coil Spring Compressor, Model# W80554 | Specialty Tools | Northern Tool + Equipment

 

[lars]

I have a complete paper on how to rebuild the front end. Just drop me an e-mail request for the current version. The rear suspension is straight forward, but there is some specialty work involved if you want to rebuild the trailing arms and the rear wheel bearings - I have good papers written by others covering this, too.

Lars
V8FastCars@msn.com

 

[corvetteherb]

Front Suspension Rebuild is a snap, just pull the body first!

Just to add a note about doing the front suspension, I had no problem taking it apart and putting it back together. No special tools, no fancy stuff, just basic mechanics. I of course raised the car, blocked it up and pulled the brakes, lines, steering linkage and the shocks. I then took a 5/8 inch threaded bar with 4 washers, 4 nuts and a short crossbar to span across the bottom control arm, and placed the bar where the shock goes. I then simply compressed the spring by tightening the nuts on the threaded bar, removed the spindle and unbolted the lower control arm and then unscrewed the nuts to drop the spring, and lower control arm on the floor. The upper control arm had only 2 nuts holding it with spacers under them. Removing the bushing took a small drill bit to drill out the old rubber bushings and a 6 inch vise to hold everything. I cleaned everything up, polishing the bushing holes (this made a big difference to get the right press fit). I installed the new urethane bushings using the vise a hammer and some old sockets. I then reassembled everything in reverse order. No muss, no fuss, but it was a little dirty. Did I forget to mention that first I removed the body?

 

[rodney25]

Question: I will be doing the rebuid of both front and rear suspension with the body on the car. Is it more difficult? should I pay and have it done or can you do it with the body on without any issues. All I have are the tools and floor jacks. Thank you for all of your posts - GOLD info!!!!!!

 

[bill81vette]

I did the front on 81 last year,took out the radiator,and shroud,
so I wouldn't damage them...

took pics of EVERYTHING....even put the same shims back in the same place.
and have had no problems what so ever!!!

 

[corvetteherb]

Question: I will be doing the rebuid of both front and rear suspension with the body on the car. Is it more difficult? should I pay and have it done or can you do it with the body on without any issues. All I have are the tools and floor jacks. Thank you for all of your posts - GOLD info!!!!!!

Rodney25,
To begin with, I'm not sure that I can give you a proof positive answer, only you can determine your tolerance for this challenge. Yes you can rebuild or upgrade the suspension with the body on, in fact in some cases the body weight helps, but with some qualifications. This is a dirty nasty job that includes lots of dirt and grease. Its a knuckle buster that can be very frustrating, especially if there's excessive rust. In addition working under the car can be a major pain in the toosh. Having worked on dozens of vettes, some things are intuitive to me that may take some time to figure out for the beginner. Yes there are a few tools that make the job easier; an arbor press to press bushings in is nice, but not absolutely necessary for example.

Having said all that, if you are determined, and willing to take the time and learn as you go, and buy the tools as needed, it is doable. Be prepared to do things twice, be ready to ask questions, and do lots of research before you begin. However if you don't have the room, attention to detail, lots of time, some confidence in your abilities, and most of the necessary tools, it might be worth getting an estimate from a suspension shop.

Regardless of who does the work, I would recommend making a list of all the components you'll need to replace, and then pricing them. Add up the total cost of all the bushings and tie rods, ball joints, shocks, possibly the springs, etc., then add 20%. Consider the "worst case" for the vette being out of commission and then double it. Then consider what you might be willing to pay for someone else to do the work.

Don't let me discourage you too much, but I need to be realistic. I'm willing to offer advice, so if you decide to move forward with the rebuild, and you'd like to keep me involved, give me a PM and we'll set up contact. Also I'm sure that there are a lot of others on this forum that are much more experienced that I am. So there's plenty of talent available to jump in when you need them.

 

[Vettehead Mikey]

Question: I will be doing the rebuid of both front and rear suspension with the body on the car. Is it more difficult? should I pay and have it done or can you do it with the body on without any issues. All I have are the tools and floor jacks. Thank you for all of your posts - GOLD info!!!!!!

Without a definition of rebuild it's hard to answer your question. Probably everything is easier from an access point of view with the body removed, but it's still very do-able without much issue. Old rusty stuck bolts will be the biggest challenge.

 

[Dad]

Putting my '72 back together now, everthing bead blasted and painted. Did not use a spring compressor, just a floor jack as they did in this review.
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/suspension/corvette-front-suspension-rebuild.html

Got most all my parts from RockAuto with no problems except their crappy shipping charges, but they were complete orders and timely. More than good service from them as always. Pressing out the 40 year old bushing was an event to behold even with my hydraluic press. All my mounting bolts and washers will be new as some of them were badly rusted buried in the bushings that long. Rik's Corvettes has a complete package of new bolts and washers for $40. That includes the passenger side upper dog bone bolts you may have to press out to remove the upper A arm past the radiator shroud, no biggie.

Good luck but wear gloves