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removing bolts from A.I.R - help please

cesully

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 28, 2003
Messages
125
Location
Marietta, GA
Corvette
1978 L82 Pace Car
Folks,
I'm trying to remove the bolts from the A.I.R. systems that are attached to the exhaust manifolds. I've got a couple loosened however the remaining are tighter than banjo strings. I sprayed WD-40 on each a few times to let them soak. Now my wrenches are slipping/stripping the bolts, I think I'm using 9/16 open end wrenches.

Any suggestions... other tools perhaps? Space is tight in that area.

Thanks much for any input...

Sully
 
I would say to find the correct fit wrench. Unless the bolts were initially stripped, then that shouldn't have happened. Try some PB Blaster. That's the toughest formula, and if they are rusted on there, a couple of hours with the PB on it will definitely give you the edge.

Just keep in mind, if you are stripping the bolts, it's only going to make the job a lot worse.
 
whats the end goal? why are you trying to remove the air tubes.

vice grips are always a good choice. :lol:

anyways, you might be better severed thowing on some headers and forgetting about the air system
 
heat works wonders if you can get it in the area you are working in .it helps a lot with frozen metal parts :hb steve
 
thanks- guys...

Not trying to do anything more than just removal and plug holes.

btw- what is PB Blaster- are we talking about chunky or smooth?;)
I have not heard of this... can you supply details...

Thanx...
 
Hi cesully, Just my two cents. The A.I.R. fittings on the exh mans were to be loosened with "line wrenches", the wrenchs you would use on brake lines. However the way it sounds it might be too late for that now. I would say the "rose bud wrench" and some vice grips might be the only way now. If you have a mapp-gas kit use that with some plumbers heat shield(to protect things that don't like heat) and a non-flamable rust buster. You have to get the fitting red hot, but heat & rust buster & vice grips should work. Worse case, you gotta pull the exh mans and do it on the bench. I'm not intending to be insulting, so don't take this the wrong way but any fastener that is rusted should be attacked with a "crow's foot" wrench or socket or a line wrench. Those tools grab more sides than a std wrench, unless you get the box side on it. If it don't move right away, heat & chemicals next, still no go then heat & chems. & vice grips. I learned on my vette to use CRC & a wire brush or wheel on the rust first so I could see what I really had to work with before selecting a tool to loosen the fastener. Tom
 
good info tomtom....thanks.

I'm still thinking on the headers 81...

Regards,

Sully
 
TOmtom is right, you need a flare nut wrench. It is used on fuel lines, hydraulic lines and the lines going into your manifold. Ask any parts shop, Sears, Advance Auto, etc and they will show you flare nut wrenches. They don't make the AIR tubes like that any more so you don't want to strip the nuts. They are valuable to the right person.

Spray PB BLaster on the nut and lightly tap it once or twice. The tapping allows the penetrant to get in deeper. Do this several times and then let it sit for an hour or so. I swear by this stuff. I never use WD40 for anything other than household squeeks.
Gary
 

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