replace rear wheel bearing - 67

[jkern]

Does anyone have tech instructions (or know of a link to a webpage) for replacing a rear wheel bearing on a 67 roadster? Please email me a copy or the link. john.kern@ngc.com

 

[IH2LOSE]

Welcome to the forum.

I am not sure the rear wheel bearing is an easely serviced item. I have a link I will have to find to a fellows personal web site who documented what he does to rebuild rear trailing arms I will see if I can find it for you.

I chose to have my rear trailing arms rebuild by a proffetional.

 

[67HEAVEN]

jkern,

Welcome to the

Larry is right. They're not easy. But, if you decide to try it yourself, you'll want tools, like those shown on this link.... http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf%5Fid=A2536&dept%5Fid=1885

You could also see this thread.....
http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/showthread.php?p=642670&posted=1#post642670
....and ask GTR1999 if he still has the photos that no longer show up on the thread.

 

[paul67]

The one time I tried that job was a bit of a disaster, even with most of the proper tools. We simply could not get the bearing off the spindle shaft. Took the spindle to a machine shop and it came off with 15+ tons of pressure (and a huge bang). Unfortunately, that kind of pressure mushroomed the threaded end of the spindle. (Now one of my DIY trophies.) I wouldn't try it again.

 

[EZG63Conv]

Just did mine... Probably takes about a day with a press. I used a slide hammer from Harbour Freight (which came with an axle attachment, about $30) to get the spindle off. Then with a large bearing attch and a heavy duty jaw puller got the bearing off the spindle. Went to a shop with a press and pressed the new bearing on. So I didn't damage the new bearing I used the old bearing against the new one to press on. Hardest part of the whole deal was making sure the right tools were there. Autozone has Timken bearings inner and outer for about $19 buck a set. EZ sends

 

[GTR1999]

Just did mine... Probably takes about a day with a press. I used a slide hammer from Harbour Freight (which came with an axle attachment, about $30) to get the spindle off. Then with a large bearing attch and a heavy duty jaw puller got the bearing off the spindle. Went to a shop with a press and pressed the new bearing on. So I didn't damage the new bearing I used the old bearing against the new one to press on. Hardest part of the whole deal was making sure the right tools were there. Autozone has Timken bearings inner and outer for about $19 buck a set. EZ sends

I know this job well and have done it for fellow corvetters. I'm not bragging about it, but I am concerned when I hear about pressing on new bearings at another location then where you're working. It might be understood by many but some will think you just need to transfer the old shim and spacer with the new bearings to the spindle. This of course is not the way to do the job. I'm not saying you did this just wondering what you set the endplay to in the process. I've taken apart spindles where the previous guy installed new bearings and left out the shims altogether. It's not particularly hard job but you do need the correct tools and understanding to achive success.

 

[67HEAVEN]

I know this job well and have done it for fellow corvetters. I'm not bragging about it, but I am concerned when I hear about pressing on new bearings at another location then where you're working. It might be understood by many but some will think you just need to transfer the old shim and spacer with the new bearings to the spindle. This of course is not the way to do the joob. I'm not saying you did this just wondering what you set the endplay to in the process. I've taken apart spindles where the previous guy installed new bearings and left out the shims altogether. It's not particularly hard job but you do need the correct tools and understanding to achive success.

GTR1999,

You'd be the guy to describe the procedure for checking endplay, with the car on stands, as a periodic check for safety reasons. How about it?

 

[GTR1999]

67-

If the rear bearings are correctly rebuilt there isn't much to do on a PM basis. You can check the runout and endpaly as well as "feel" on the car but you have to be 100% sure there is no movement in the indicator base. I use a mag base with a C clamp even when I'm working with my setup fixture. I don;t try and get a close reading on the car because of the potential for false readings.
If you try, pull the caliper up off the rotor and pull the 1/2 shaft so you're only rotating the spindle bearings. see how they feel there should not be any roughness in them. If you can rig up the arm so it doesn't move then you can try and check the endplay and rotor runout. If they are Gm setup bearings they'll have baout .003-.004 endplay, if done correctly by a rebuilder they should be in the .001-.002" range. Over .003" I wouldn't use them. Same with runout, I like them under .002" you can get away with .003 but I wouldn't use over that. Many state .005 is ok but it comes down to who doing the job and how they feel about their work.

 

[67HEAVEN]

67-

I use a mag base with a C clamp even when I'm working with my setup fixture.

Good suggestion. The magnets never seem to be strong enough to ensure absence of movement.