Question: Replacing C5 rear axle shafts - OK to remove both at once?

[HallenTi]

I understand that the rear axleshafts are CV shafts and I am feeling/hearing a little "roughness" in them so plan to replace them soon. From the www.alldatadiy.com subhttp://www.atadiy.comscription I have, I have printed the step-by-step instructions for removing and replacing them. There is no mention of whether both axle shafts can be removed ar the same time, or if it is best to do one side, then the other.

I ask this, because when doing my daughters 1995 Ford Probe (transaxle, front drive), the manual cautioned not to remove both axles at the same time because the differential side gears could work lose and fall into the case if both shafts were removed at the same time. Their suggestion was to replace one side at a time, or make a fixture to put in place of the axle shaft when removed before removing the other side (I had the splined end cut from an old core to use as a plug and works great). Is removing both axle shafts at once on my 1999 Corvette coupe OK to do? Thanks in advance! Tim

 

[muddywaters]

Merry Christmas, Are you sure the "roughness" isn't the tires??????

 

[HallenTi]

Yes, pretty sure. It is "rough" especially on really slow turns, such as parking. I also sometimes feel/hear a slight "clunk" (very slight) when going between drive and reverse. It has slowly gotten worse over time (I have 80,000 miles on the car). I assumed that the axle shafts are splined and slide into the differential side gears like the Ford Probes I have worked on, but after looking over the diagrams, it doesn't seem to be the case, so I think I won't have issues doing both sides at the same time. I have ordered the axle shafts but haven't received them yet so didn't have them for reference.

 

[c4c5specialist]

Yes, pretty sure. It is "rough" especially on really slow turns, such as parking. I also sometimes feel/hear a slight "clunk" (very slight) when going between drive and reverse. It has slowly gotten worse over time (I have 80,000 miles on the car). I assumed that the axle shafts are splined and slide into the differential side gears like the Ford Probes I have worked on, but after looking over the diagrams, it doesn't seem to be the case, so I think I won't have issues doing both sides at the same time. I have ordered the axle shafts but haven't received them yet so didn't have them for reference.

HI there,
If you want to save yourself alot of money, do the following.

First, obtain 2 quarts of 88862624 from your local GM dealer.

Then, drain and refill your differential.

Drive for 2 days, occasionally doing figure 8s in a parking lot and see if the problems go away.

I bet they will.

Allthebest, c4c5

 

[Hib Halverson]

You can remove both axle shafts at the same time.

You also can service the CVs yourself. GM sells boot kits and the instructions for disassembling, inspecting, repacking and rebooting the CVs is in the Factory Service Manual.

While, at 80,000 miles, it won't hurt to repack and reboot the CVs, you might want to do a little more diagnosis. As "c4c5specialst" suggests, it is possible that this "roughness" you feel the your limited slip and not the axles. Has the diff lube ever been changed?

 

[HallenTi]

Yes, the diff lube has been changed at about 40,000 +/-. I went to the Chevy dealer for 2 containers of GM lube and their posi additive, and the parts man there said their shop always uses Royal Purple with the posi additive already in the mix and it is much cheaper than the GM fluid and additive, so I bought the recommended Royal Purple lube, drained and refilled.

Since I had changed it not too long ago, I was assuming that it wouldn't be the diff fluid in such a short time (should have posted that I had refilled in my initial post). I haven't, however, put it in the air to carefully check out any play or roughness in the axles, which I should do.

Given the product I used and the relatively short time since the drain and refill, I suppose it would be prudent to drain and refill with the GM products first, and if that doesn't correct things, it would be good to do and not too expensive. Would you concur? Once I get it in the air and check, I can report my results.

Tim

 

[muddywaters]

I worked on a friends 76 coupe, I used something other than GM Gearlube/Additive, said it was OK for that car, rear end "Chattered" like a .............Well I drained/sucked it all back out, got the GM Lube/ADD and the "Chatter was gone.

 

[c4c5specialist]

And just remember, the 88862624 doesnt need the additive either.

Just add the new fluid and you will be fine.

Allthebest, c4c5

 

[HallenTi]

The Royal Purple didn't seem to chatter/clunk/what-have-you after the drain and refill and for some time afterward, so I was happy with it. But, maybe it isn't as long-lasting as the true GM product. As I said, I had intended to use the GM product, but was talked out of it. This time, I will just get the GM product (without the need for the additive - thanks C4C5Specialist for that info!) and see how it goes.

I believe the rear end is slightly over 2 quarts if I remember correctly, so am wondering if I need to "top it off" with a third quart (with lots leftover)? The list price of the fluid is something like $22 each, so I hate to buy extra if it is not truly needed, as it isn't something that I'd need again for a while.

 

[robs817_c5]

Hi There;
Any fluid drops on the g/floor? I would put the car in the air & check for wet ness around the diff. housing. Its usually the driver side that leaks. 1.69 qts.
robs817_c5

 

[HallenTi]

I am lucky enough to have not a drop of leaks of any kind from the car. I keep an eye out for them, but so far, have nothing to report.