repost on old thread I was asked about

[grumpyvette]

OLD POST COVERS THAT INFO

I can,t believe the stuff I see at times..in the car mags that are SUPPOSED to be articles composed by guys who know what they are doing!!!!!!!
I picked up a copy of one of the more comon, chevy based magazines and theres PICTURES of a guy dipping head bolts in yellow weather strip adhesive to be used as a thread sealant on the bolt threads (its not designed to come in direct contact with oil and/or high heat coolant),and its not going to give the correct tq readings either, and on the next page the guys gooping, GOBS of clear silicone like youll use to seal aquariums or bathroom fixtures 1/4 thick on/around the intake manifold ports, NEITHER SEALANT is DESIGNED FOR or is LIKELY to perform correctly IN EITHER APPLICATION, and WHERE does this guy think all that excess silicone will go once the intakes torqued down????
theres only two high probabilitys, it will flow into the port where it will eventually harden and get sucked into the cylinders or it may hang there causing a restriction in the port, or if it flows down, it gets into the lifter gallery where its eventually going to get into the oil pump pick up screen, restricting or blocking oil flow
i would not let these guys fix a flat tire let alone work on MY ENGINES all I can do is shake my head and wonder who if ANYONE screens these articles
always use the manufacturers suggested installation instructions, as some applications or gasket types REQUIRE differant lubes or sealants but heres a rought guide

head bolts #5, dip clean dry thread in
http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilyproduct.cfm?familyid=386&catid=69
then insert and tq heads in place

head gaskets #3
main bolts #2
rod bolts #2
oil pump stud and nut #4
oil pan bolts #5
oil pan gasket #6
cam spocket bolts #4
timing cover gasket #6
timing cover bolts #1
intake bolts #1
intake gasket #6
thermostat housing bolts #5
thermostat housing gasket (also do you really need it) usually yes #6
Exhaust manifold/header bolts #1
Exhaust manifold/header gaskets #3
Water pump bolts #5
water pump gaskets #6
fuel pump #6
crank/damper bolt #1
Torque converter bolts #4
flywheel/flexplate bolts #4
bellhousing bolts #2
1 antiseize
2 oil or ARP thread lube
3 copper coat spray gasket sealer or apply dry in some cases (see manufactures suggestions)
4 loctite (red or blue depends on application ,read the lables)
5 http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilyproduct.cfm?familyid=386&catid=69
6 black high temp RTV
use the correct stuff for the application, AND READ & FOLLOW THE DIRRECTIONS it prevents PROBLEMS

 

[grumpyvette]

a few things you should know

Ive had the best luck with the extra thick synthetic /cork composite mix gaskets
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FPP%2D1604&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FPP-1630&autoview=sku


[1] synthetic oil desolves that yellow 3m weatherstrip gasket adhesive than many guys use over a few months time so you cant use it to glue valve cover gaskets
[2]you must use a o2 safe gasket cement like the BLACK RTV silicone cement and you must clean and degrease the cover with acetone or a similar solvent before glueing on the gasket to get the best retention
[3]you need to allow at least a few hours to over night,depends mostly on temp. for that black silicone gasket cement to set up before installing the valve covers, and placeing them gasket side down on a table with a sheet of wax paper under them and a 20lb weight on top of each valve cover while the cement sets up is the best way to insure the gaskets stay correctly aligned on the valve covers perimeter
[4]a light coat of (PAM) cooking spray on the lower gasket surface keeps them from sticking to the cylinder heads after installation
[5] these gasket retaining rings add a great deal to the valve covers ability to firmly hold the gasket WITHOUT bending SHEET METAL VALVE COVERS OR CRACKING CAST ALUMINUM VALVE COVERS AND ARE WELL WORTH THE MINIMAL COST

[6]doing it correctly the first time saves time and money

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_25118_-1

yes you get a PAIR at that price

 

[grumpyvette]

many guys have coolant leaks from studs and head bolts,you don,t need that P.I.T.A.
guys! Ive YET to have a single stud or bolt leak!
its simple! run a tap thru the threads, test screw the clean/dry stud by hand to verify no clearance or binding then ,clean them and dry the threads on the block and studs,before you start the assembly, and just dip the total threaded surface on the lower studs course thread end of the stud that screws into the block into the correct sealant. spin it in your fingers slowly as you move the stud to the hole in the block to keep from dripping sealant on the deck,
thread it into the block full depth , back it out a 1/2 turn and let it set up for a few minutes before assembling the head gaskets and heads,but assemble the heads while the sealants still fresh/liquid, torque too spec and let the engine set for a few hours (preferably over night)
http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?familyID=386
the stuff works far more relieably than most thread pastes or thread sealants, it cleans ,off fingers with a scotchbrite pad and gas or alcohol,....provided you have not let it set up on your skin very long, once its started too dry ...good luck
YES it works on BOLTS ALSO
head bolts #5, dip clean dry thread in
http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilyproduct.cfm?familyid=386&catid=69
or this
http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?brandid=2&familyid=384
(NOT QUITE AS GOOD BUT STILL OK)
then insert and tq heads in place


use the correct stuff for the application, AND READ & FOLLOW THE DIRRECTIONS it prevents PROBLEMS