Richmond Six Swap begins!

[69MyWay]

I am finally doing it!!!!!!!

Just pulled the muncie out a few hours ago. Got her all cleaned up and ready to go up for sale. I linked all that here in the C3 parts section and on my site:

http://www.mcspeed.homestead.com/Richmond_Six_Speed_Swap.html

I still have to pull the diff out. I did not put a new clutch kit in it when I first installed it. As a result, the posi unit is making some noise and binding up. I have a new set of clutches ready to go....just have to yank it on out.

More updates to come.

When/if I sell the muncie, then the whole page listed above will be dedicated to the Richmond Swap.

 

[Ken]

Chris, are you going with a hydraulic release bearing again? Just curious.

 

[69MyWay]

Yep!

 

[matchframe]

Is the Muncie a M-21, or a M-22 Low?

Does the shift pattern plate also come with it?

I think the price you are asking is more than fair. I wish I could make up my mind whether I am going to use a manual trans or an automatic. I just have not put too much thought in it. Too many other things to think through on my project right now.

I bet the six speed will make Killer feel like a different car.

 

[69MyWay]

I don't know what the exact ratio and build is on this trans. That is why I listed all the numbers I found on it in hopes of it being discovered. I did find it really cool that the VIN on the car is also stamped on the trans housing. No doubt, it is the numbers matching original. I also have the numbers matching original four bolt small block. It is almost a shame to split them up.

Since it is a 10 spline, I know it is not the super heavy duty unit. As far as gears go, it seems to have a a pretty high first gear, but I never measured it out. There is not much drop across the pattern, but that is with a big block. I can take off in fourth gear in the BB with no worries anyway. Heck, all I needed anyway is a 1 speed!

I did not even think about the shift plate, but sure....it would go, because I have no need for it. The one I have was bought new in 2002 when I was putting the console in.

All it would lack is a pedal, some springs, and the bracket welded to the frame, and there would be enough here to set up a auto car with a standard trans.

Shipping from here to CA would be really high though.

 

[matchframe]

I looked up the numbers you posted on the web site, and from what I can decipher, this is what I came up with;

In 1969, the transmissions were divided with code letters, they are:
S - Saginaw three speed.
P - Muncie four speed.
A - M20 Muncie four speed with wide gear ratio.
B - M21 Muncie four speed with close gear ratio.
C - M22 Muncie heavy duty four speed with close gear ratio.

And the rest were automatics.

The only letters I found in your numbers is the letters P and A. You said that you found this next to the VIN and is P9A11. According to this number, your transmission is an M20 four speed.

Bill

 

[69MyWay]

Thanks!

I also found out the first gear is a 2.5 ratio.

I cut the X member out today and dropped it at the local speed shop for the welding needed to make it into a bolt in member. I am doing away with the through X member exhaust tunnels due to the side pipes.

Pics soon.

 

[bossvette]

FYI
I shipped a t-10 to Ca from Ohio for @$100 including the wood to build the crate UPS will take up to 100lbs
ps being an Ole Fart I remember that Muncie's came with 2.54 to 1 and 2.20 to one first gear ratios hence close ratio vs wide

 

[69vettester]

Im Curious, with this thread.I have a Muncie 4. for sale. Needs new seals, Bushings, bearings,syncro's. The ..gears.. should be just fine..
Any reasonable offer is accepted.
Ill try and post this in the parts section too.
Jus curious...
Tom

 

[69MyWay]

Im Curious, with this thread.I have a Muncie 4. for sale. Needs new seals, Bushings, bearings,syncro's. The ..gears.. should be just fine..
Any reasonable offer is accepted.
Ill try and post this in the parts section too.
Jus curious...
Tom

Tom, do you have assembly numbers off yours? See if you can post those as well.

 

[69MyWay]

Update

Trans is in. After a "detour" of sorts...I am now running the stock original mechanical clutch linkage. I have to order some new parts however, as the pins and rods are very worn.

After pulling the ROD back out, I installed a longer (nearly 1/4") pivot ball. This gets the fork away from the firewall more as my flywheel is thinner and lighter than the average bear.

The six is back in, custom cross member, and drive shafts all hooked up.

I had to cut more away from my trans tunnel than I had expected. I will reseal all this with a custom aftermarked generic shifter boot kit from the local store. The stock leather upper boot fits and works just fine.

Gears 3/4 are kind of tight, but the car is still on the jackstands, and I have not had a chance to really run them in yet.

I imagine I have some "adjustment" time ahead of me after talking to Tom Conners and his ROD swap.

So...more soon. I will update pics when I can.

 

[Black Thunder]

Chris
You have a thing about working to deadlines, LOL!
Hope things work out for Octobervettes as I plan on going.

Guess I should not talk as Thunders right rear wheel is leaning in badly (Gee do ya think all those burnouts did that) Probably go with all new poly bushings if I can get it in. And of course theirs the frozen (solid) rear axle fill plug.

The richmonds been an upgrade you wanted for a very long time. Can't wait to hear how much things change driving Killer with the mod!

CYA next weekend, I hope
Posse Bro

 

[69MyWay]

Hey Posse Bro!!!!!!!

My computer crashed and I lost your home email. That is why you have not heard from me.

Shoot it to me again.

I hope to see you there.

Rear bushings are not that bad to change...it is getting the bolts free and removing them that is the pain in the butt.


Chris

 

[bossvette]

frozen (solid) rear axle fill plug.

sometimes a frozen/rusted bolt/plug etc can be removed by heating it and melting a wax candle on the threads, has worked for me a few times when wd40 etc failed to do the trick