Ride height too high in front

[dshanks]

I rebuilt my suspension- mostly just paint, bushings, and shocks. I did not replace the springs.
When I put the car back on the floor, I noticed that it sits about 3 inches higher than it did before. I figured the suspension just hadnt settled yet, as I hadnt driven it yet.
Last night I drove it around the block a couple times, and the suspension is still way too high. would 2 trips around the block be enough to settle the suspension back down? should I expect it to settle more when I start driving it?

 

[gmjunkie]

Take it out and Find a washboard in the road or a real Rough Road!!! It should settle down a bit,but I don't know about 3 inches!! Are you sure you have the springs in right??

 

[dshanks]

Are you sure you have the springs in right??

I thinks so. Rusty pitted end down, right???:L

I tried to arrange them so the end of the springs fit into the pockets on the control arms, but cant guarantee that they are still seated in there. Installing them was a bi*ch.

 

[gmjunkie]

I thinks so. Rusty pitted end down, right???:L

I tried to arrange them so the end of the springs fit into the pockets on the control arms, but cant guarantee that they are still seated in there. Installing them was a bi*ch.

("Installing them was a bi*ch.") You won't get no argument here!!!!

 

[redvett]

The ID tag must be on top side of spring and the bottom of the coil must be at the end of the pocket where the drain hole is. Did you have the front jacked up for quite a while and rear tires and suspension loaded. If so the rear spring has collapsed.

 

[JohnZ]

The end of the spring with the closely-spaced coils goes up, in the spring tower, and the end of the top coil is positioned 3/8" from the stop in the tower. There is no "positioning" in the lower control arm - the hole in the recess in the lower control arm is simply for water drainage.

Also, the upper and lower control arm cross-shaft bushing end bolts MUST be tightened with the full weight of the car on its wheels, at design ride height; if those bolts are torqued with the suspension hanging in full rebound, the ride height will be WAY too high, and the bushings will be over-stressed in torsion and will fail prematurely.

 

[dshanks]

the upper and lower control arm cross-shaft bushing end bolts MUST be tightened with the full weight of the car on its wheels, at design ride height; if those bolts are torqued with the suspension hanging in full rebound, the ride height will be WAY too high

I think this is my issue, I torqued them on the ground, but I didnt drive it to let the suspension settle first. I torqued them right when I took it off the jackstands.

Sound correct?

 

[JohnZ]

Could be a contributor - I'd loosen the bolts enough so the serrated ends of the bushing inner sleeves lose their grip on the retainer washers and on the "step" in the cross-shafts, run it up and down the street, park it on a level surface, and re-torque the bolts.

 

[fine69]

I rebuilt my suspension- mostly just paint, bushings, and shocks. I did not replace the springs.
When I put the car back on the floor, I noticed that it sits about 3 inches higher than it did before. I figured the suspension just hadnt settled yet, as I hadnt driven it yet.
Last night I drove it around the block a couple times, and the suspension is still way too high. would 2 trips around the block be enough to settle the suspension back down? should I expect it to settle more when I start driving it?

Last summer I completely restored my front end (engine/transmission overhaul, suspension, all ball joints, brake system, steering, cooling system, and so forth).

For the springs, I replaced mine with the VB&P 550 lb "Street and Slalom Coil Springs". If I remember, they were less than $100 and I also got a discount for being a CAC member! :cool

These springs are supposed to upgrade to F-41 or Gymkhana specs. The cool thing is that the springs are supposed lower the Vette by approx 1" --- but since these are stiffer than the tired old ones I had, when I reinstalled my engine, the car held up perfectly... and the height was also perfect.

 

[dshanks]

Could be a contributor - I'd loosen the bolts enough so the serrated ends of the bushing inner sleeves lose their grip on the retainer washers and on the "step" in the cross-shafts, run it up and down the street, park it on a level surface, and re-torque the bolts.

I loosened these bolts, and have put about 20-30 miles on the car since. the suspension is still jacked up for some reason. Seems about 2-3 inches too high still. The suspension travels freely.
Shouldnt it have settled down by now?

 

[Havachat9]

Is it possible that the springs are the wrong size? Their too long and need to be cut shorter by 2-3 inches?

just my $0.02 worth.

Cheers.

 

[Havachat9]

You might even be able to get them heated up and reset. hmm

 

[dshanks]

Is it possible that the springs are the wrong size? Their too long and need to be cut shorter by 2-3 inches?

just my $0.02 worth.

Cheers.

When I rebuilt the suspension, the only things that were replaced were the bushings, ball joints, tie rods and shocks. The springs are the same.

 

[dshanks]

You might even be able to get them heated up and reset. hmm

I have discussed this with my dad but only as a last resort low budget fix. There has to be a cause, but Im sure having a hard time finding it. It sucks cause I cant drive it, it's so high that the tires squeal while I drive, and everybody looks at me funny. Driving a vette, I prefer favorable looks...

I also need an alignment, and Im not having it done like this. Id just have to go do it again once I find the problem.

 

[jim coulter]

Wish I could help.Sitting here at work and can not remember what the underside even looks like, but...you shouldn't have to heat things up or cut things off to fix it. It should go back together just like it was without doing anything special. I'll look at mine when I get home and see if there is anything noticeable that might mess it up when going back together. For the life of me, all I can think it would be is the spring is not seated properly. let you know if I think of anything. At least this will push this back to the top. Never know, the right someone might come along with the answer.

 

[dshanks]

For the life of me, all I can think it would be is the spring is not seated properly. let you know if I think of anything. At least this will push this back to the top. Never know, the right someone might come along with the answer.

This is the only thing that I can think of as well. But if I remember correctly, the pockets (on the underside of the frame that the top of the spring fits into) are not all that deep.

I need to take a photo of the cars ride height so we can see the difference were talking here. I cant see that little pocket causing a 2-3" difference. I was very carefull to get them situated correctly the first time. I cant imagine that I messed both sides up. I think if this were the case, Id have one side high and one side regular???

I certainly hope I can figure it out without having to have these heated. With my luck the problem would then work itself out and the car would be 2" too low...

 

[redvett]

If you used the same old springs and rebuilt the front end the only thing that can be wrong is the springs arent seated properly. No other reason.

 

[dshanks]

If you used the same old springs and rebuilt the front end the only thing that can be wrong is the springs arent seated properly. No other reason.

Is there a trick to making them seat properly. I had a friend there with me, he was running the impact wrench from above while i was below holding the spring in place while it sinched up there. Once pressure was applied, I didnt see a way to make further adjustments before the lower control arm was pushed into place.

Is there a way to spin those without taking the whole suspension apart?
Id REALLY rather not take it all apart again.

 

[redvett]

I compress the spring just enough with side clamps and install. I use a floor jack at the balljoint (most leverage) and put enough tension on the spring so its still loose enough to turn and make sure its seated with a pair of chanel locks. Once you have full pressure on the spring its not going anywhere.

 

[dshanks]

I compress the spring just enough with side clamps and install. I use a floor jack at the balljoint (most leverage) and put enough tension on the spring so its still loose enough to turn and make sure its seated with a pair of chanel locks. Once you have full pressure on the spring its not going anywhere.

I used a piece of allthread to go through the top shock hole and down to a plate thats wedged between the coil.

Is there any way that I can drop the top spindle bolt, lower the lower control arm to release just enough pressure to rotate the spring?
I really hate to take all the suspension apart...