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Setting solid lifters

craig32

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 30, 2004
Messages
482
Location
PA
Corvette
1981 repainted black coupe
Can someone remind me of the procedure for setting solid lifters? I think it is - #1 @ TDC, set #1 and #6, rotate 90 deg., set #8 and #5, rotate 90 deg., set #4 and #7, rotate 90 deg., set # 3 and #2? .020 with feeler gague between the rocker arm and valve stem? Did I remember all that right? It's been forever, just want to make sure - Thanks!

Craig
 
Solid Lifter Adjustment

Can someone remind me of the procedure for setting solid lifters? I think it is - #1 @ TDC, set #1 and #6, rotate 90 deg., set #8 and #5, rotate 90 deg., set #4 and #7, rotate 90 deg., set # 3 and #2? .020 with feeler gague between the rocker arm and valve stem? Did I remember all that right? It's been forever, just want to make sure - Thanks!

Craig

I have an artiticle from Corvette Enthusiast, November 04 called "Playing Taps" that I use every time I adjust the lsolid ifters on my LT-1. I can e-mail it to you if you want to give me an e-mail address.

Tom
 
Can someone remind me of the procedure for setting solid lifters? I think it is - #1 @ TDC, set #1 and #6, rotate 90 deg., set #8 and #5, rotate 90 deg., set #4 and #7, rotate 90 deg., set # 3 and #2? .020 with feeler gague between the rocker arm and valve stem? Did I remember all that right? It's been forever, just want to make sure - Thanks!

Craig

What cam? Stock rocker arms, or ?

:beer
 
What cam? Stock rocker arms, or ?

:beer
Hey John,
Cam is Isky gear driven (.531L, 290D) with roller solid lifters, stock rockers.

Craig
 
This sequence was developed for the "30-30" cam, which still has both valves on the ramps at TDC and can't be adjusted by any of the "short" methods - it will work on ANY cam.

Long Method (for "30-30", works on anything):

Start at #1 TDC, adjust intake 2, exhaust 8
Turn 90*, adjust intake 1, exhaust 4
Turn 90*, adjust intake 8, exhaust 3
Turn 90*, adjust intake 4, exhaust 6
Turn 90*, adjust intake 3, exhaust 5
Turn 90*, adjust intake 6, exhaust 7
Turn 90*, adjust intake 5, exhaust 2
Turn 90*, adjust intake 7, exhaust 1

:beer
 
Thanks again John! I knew it was something like that, but I didn't think I had it quite right on second look. I'll get them adjusted tomorrow after work, it's all coming together now.
What exactly is the '30-30' cam? Thanks again.

Craig
 
Thanks again John! I knew it was something like that, but I didn't think I had it quite right on second look. I'll get them adjusted tomorrow after work, it's all coming together now.
What exactly is the '30-30' cam? Thanks again.

Craig

The "30-30" cam was used in the '64-'65 327/365hp (carbed) and 327/375hp fuelies and in the '67-'69 Camaro Z/28; it was the only factory solid-lifter cam Chevy ever made where the valves weren't closed at TDC - had to be lashed either "hot and running" or by the sequence above to ensure each lifter was on the cam's base circle for the clearance adjustment.

:beer
 
Forget all that stuff.

If the engine has iron heads and iron block, you can set the valves cold with little detrimental effect.

I turn the engine by hand. I go down one bank, then up the other. I use a "go/no-go" measurement, ie: if the setting is .028, then I adjust so the .027 feeler slides though but the .029 does not. I adjust each intake just as its exhaust starts to open and I adjust each exhaust as its intake starts to close.

Do that and you don't need to screw with firing orders, TDC, turning 90-deg. or whatever.

If you're really worried about lashing the valves hot but don't like the mess and the heat, do one set of valves hot. Let the engine cool overnight, remeasure the valve lash then set all 14 others to the same lash.

What else?

Well, some alternative music, good and loud, breaks the tedium of adjusting valves, but never drink beer while doing it--well, ok--at least, never drink more than a six-pack.
 

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