Rebelrob
Well-known member
...
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She's all mine...
- Thread starter Rebelrob
- Start date
73shark
Well-known member
Looks nice! Is it a true Collector's Edition?
- Thread starter
- #3
Rebelrob
Well-known member
Yes, its a CE. I'm just looking for some help with some of my questions.
Is that a 73?
Is that a 73?
Welcome to the CAC (and CE's) Rob !
Nice car, though the black out isnt my thing. Good luck with any and all things you do.
To your questions:
1: As a Crossfire has a "computer" (read ECM) IT adjusts the idle. You need to check whether you have a Vacuum leak, or a bad Cooleant Sensor, or loose screws in the TB plate (and and and).. There are a few items that make them idle high. I've worked on mine since a few months and mine still idles too high at 850 warm in Drive.
Is yours idling cold at 1100-1500, in park? Or warm at Temp (180 degrees)?
2: Fuel Gauge: Sounds like your sender is getting stuck on somthing. You could pull it out (it's reachable through the gas tank filler neck opening) and check on it. Maybe the sender neck is bent?
Should look like this:
(Imagine courtesy of CrossFire Injection Mine)
3: Sounds like someone didnt wire the control in for the radio to put the antenna up and down. See behind the middle dash if you have a control wire laying around (you get to it through the side panels, feel around for a few screws and you can carefully take the side panel off).
Re Crossfire: They are wonderfull cars, if they are adjusted correctly. Mine hasnt left me hanging for 16 years now. They arent the strongest and certainly lack power with 200 hp, but it's a daily enjoyment i wouldnt want to miss..
Let us know how you make out with the issues. Also, there is a Crossfire Mine here on the CAC.
All the best with the car.
-Stefan
Nice car, though the black out isnt my thing. Good luck with any and all things you do.
To your questions:
1: As a Crossfire has a "computer" (read ECM) IT adjusts the idle. You need to check whether you have a Vacuum leak, or a bad Cooleant Sensor, or loose screws in the TB plate (and and and).. There are a few items that make them idle high. I've worked on mine since a few months and mine still idles too high at 850 warm in Drive.
Is yours idling cold at 1100-1500, in park? Or warm at Temp (180 degrees)?
2: Fuel Gauge: Sounds like your sender is getting stuck on somthing. You could pull it out (it's reachable through the gas tank filler neck opening) and check on it. Maybe the sender neck is bent?
Should look like this:
(Imagine courtesy of CrossFire Injection Mine)
3: Sounds like someone didnt wire the control in for the radio to put the antenna up and down. See behind the middle dash if you have a control wire laying around (you get to it through the side panels, feel around for a few screws and you can carefully take the side panel off).
Re Crossfire: They are wonderfull cars, if they are adjusted correctly. Mine hasnt left me hanging for 16 years now. They arent the strongest and certainly lack power with 200 hp, but it's a daily enjoyment i wouldnt want to miss..
Let us know how you make out with the issues. Also, there is a Crossfire Mine here on the CAC.
All the best with the car.
-Stefan
- Thread starter
- #5
Rebelrob
Well-known member
Thanks for the info. Germany huh? How did a Vette end up way over there?
Yep, the tint is dark. But I'm Texas, and let me tell ya, it gets hot here, real hot. The dark tint helps.
1. My idel is high at start up/cold, goes right to about 1100 rpm. Same when it warms up and in drive. Stays about the same. I took her out last night. The temp was about 54 degrees, nice and cool out and it was the same.
I will check the things you talk about.
Vaccuum leak- where do I look for this? Coolant , u mean part of the radiator set up? I can check the screws. I put new air filters and sprayed the TBI with injector cleaner.
Also, do you think this is why it shifts hard from Park to R and D?
2. Gas gauge sending unit. I have heard of this. I can pull it right out from the top, where I put gas in? Should I disconnect my battery. That electric wire connector and gas, make me nervous?
Also have you ever had problems with your fuel pump or gas tank at all?
3. I will check for the antenna wires. I had a 97 trans am with electric antenna and the crappy thing went out in about 4 years. So I figured it was the little motor.
Glad I found a fellow CE owner. Sorry bout all the questions. Dang I wish you were state side, I could call ya....
Thanks,
R
Yep, the tint is dark. But I'm Texas, and let me tell ya, it gets hot here, real hot. The dark tint helps.
1. My idel is high at start up/cold, goes right to about 1100 rpm. Same when it warms up and in drive. Stays about the same. I took her out last night. The temp was about 54 degrees, nice and cool out and it was the same.
I will check the things you talk about.
Vaccuum leak- where do I look for this? Coolant , u mean part of the radiator set up? I can check the screws. I put new air filters and sprayed the TBI with injector cleaner.
Also, do you think this is why it shifts hard from Park to R and D?
2. Gas gauge sending unit. I have heard of this. I can pull it right out from the top, where I put gas in? Should I disconnect my battery. That electric wire connector and gas, make me nervous?
Also have you ever had problems with your fuel pump or gas tank at all?
3. I will check for the antenna wires. I had a 97 trans am with electric antenna and the crappy thing went out in about 4 years. So I figured it was the little motor.
Glad I found a fellow CE owner. Sorry bout all the questions. Dang I wish you were state side, I could call ya....
Thanks,
R
- Joined
- Mar 26, 2002
- Messages
- 812
- Location
- Midlothian, VA
- Corvette
- 1981 white/blue interior automatic
Yes, that is why it "clunks" when putting it in gear. Even if you have a normal idle, it still makes a little clunk every time. I remember someone saying it's because of the IRS on these cars. Looks good, enjoy it!
-Tatortot
-Tatortot
- Thread starter
- #7
Rebelrob
Well-known member
Yep, well it clunks hard..... Like you feel if you had 500 hp and a shift kit installed on a racing trans. I know thats not right, and it does not sound good.
IRS? sorry I am new and need to learn all the abbreviations/acronyms.
Thx,
R
IRS? sorry I am new and need to learn all the abbreviations/acronyms.
Thx,
R
- Joined
- Mar 26, 2002
- Messages
- 812
- Location
- Midlothian, VA
- Corvette
- 1981 white/blue interior automatic
IRS= Independent Rear Suspension.
I know when I try to move her during high idle, or, one time when my alternator was dead, so the choke wouldn't turn off and it was idling around 2,000 rpm, putting it in gear was like you were squatting down and launching hard. I really do think it's normal for right now, however if you get your idle fixed and it is still drastic, maybe you should look into some of the suspension pieces. I know there is a pad above the differential pumpkin that can wear out and causes this condition. One step at a time though.. idle first.
-Tatortot
I know when I try to move her during high idle, or, one time when my alternator was dead, so the choke wouldn't turn off and it was idling around 2,000 rpm, putting it in gear was like you were squatting down and launching hard. I really do think it's normal for right now, however if you get your idle fixed and it is still drastic, maybe you should look into some of the suspension pieces. I know there is a pad above the differential pumpkin that can wear out and causes this condition. One step at a time though.. idle first.
-Tatortot
jdp6000
Well-known member
Hi rpm is an easy fix sounds like you may have gotten a good deal because some else couldn't figure it out.
Don't mess with any of the settings on the TBI's. You will make the rpm problem worse.
To often I get into making suggestions but not knowing what the car on the otherside looks like. First off is anything missing? Do you have an engine light on? Everything has to be there..parts wise and no bubba work.
It sounds like a vaccum leak. Thats assuming your CTS is working. Thats the thing at the front of the engine just below the thermostat housing. CTS stands for coolant temp sensor...it tells the computer (ECM in front of the battery) what the engine temp is. It only works right if your rad is full. I would replace it. its about $20.
Eliminate obvious sources of vaccum leaks. Disconnect the hose to the headlights and plug it. disconnect the hose to the break booster and block it. On the other side. disconnect the hose to EGR solenoid and block it. The EGR solenoid is in line with the EGR. Make sure all the caps are on the ports on the TBI's so there is no vaccum leak there. Start the car.Any difference? If so go back wards...start connecting things until you find the leaky part. If there is no change move to the next step.
Locate the MAP sensor. Its on the firewall on the driver side. Hose goes to it from the rear TBI...is the hose there? is the hose Fine. Bad MAP will through an engine light. If you want to test manifold pressure it should be a constant 20 psi minus or plus 1. If MAP is okay move on.
Look at the TBI's the adjustement screws are capped from the factory. Are caps popped? there is one on each TBI. To much to explain right now if the caps are popped. If caps are there thats great.
Look at the idle control screw towards the inside of the front TBI. Is the weld grinded off? Comes welded from the factory. If weld is there thats great.
Most common leak is from the top plate of the intake manifold. The manifold is two pieces. That gasket should be replaced. You should also replace the two TBI gaskets. Its cheap about $45 for the gasket kit. It will take you an hour or so. Don't use any silicon. For now you can check for leaks. Start the car and spray carb cleaner at various places around the top plate. Idle will change when you hit the right spot. You can also try tightening the bolts if they are loose. Be gentle...if the gasket is bad you will amplify the RPM problem.
Idle when cold in the 1200-1400 range is normal. Idle when warm is 550 rpm. Idle is controlled by the ECM.
How is the timing? Should be 6 BTDC with EST wire diconnected. The EST wire carries the advance signal to the ECM. Its brown in color and to the driverside of the Distributor. It has to be disconnected when you set the timing.
I'm away for 4 days but the above should keep you busy. Good luck.
Jim
Don't mess with any of the settings on the TBI's. You will make the rpm problem worse.
To often I get into making suggestions but not knowing what the car on the otherside looks like. First off is anything missing? Do you have an engine light on? Everything has to be there..parts wise and no bubba work.
It sounds like a vaccum leak. Thats assuming your CTS is working. Thats the thing at the front of the engine just below the thermostat housing. CTS stands for coolant temp sensor...it tells the computer (ECM in front of the battery) what the engine temp is. It only works right if your rad is full. I would replace it. its about $20.
Eliminate obvious sources of vaccum leaks. Disconnect the hose to the headlights and plug it. disconnect the hose to the break booster and block it. On the other side. disconnect the hose to EGR solenoid and block it. The EGR solenoid is in line with the EGR. Make sure all the caps are on the ports on the TBI's so there is no vaccum leak there. Start the car.Any difference? If so go back wards...start connecting things until you find the leaky part. If there is no change move to the next step.
Locate the MAP sensor. Its on the firewall on the driver side. Hose goes to it from the rear TBI...is the hose there? is the hose Fine. Bad MAP will through an engine light. If you want to test manifold pressure it should be a constant 20 psi minus or plus 1. If MAP is okay move on.
Look at the TBI's the adjustement screws are capped from the factory. Are caps popped? there is one on each TBI. To much to explain right now if the caps are popped. If caps are there thats great.
Look at the idle control screw towards the inside of the front TBI. Is the weld grinded off? Comes welded from the factory. If weld is there thats great.
Most common leak is from the top plate of the intake manifold. The manifold is two pieces. That gasket should be replaced. You should also replace the two TBI gaskets. Its cheap about $45 for the gasket kit. It will take you an hour or so. Don't use any silicon. For now you can check for leaks. Start the car and spray carb cleaner at various places around the top plate. Idle will change when you hit the right spot. You can also try tightening the bolts if they are loose. Be gentle...if the gasket is bad you will amplify the RPM problem.
Idle when cold in the 1200-1400 range is normal. Idle when warm is 550 rpm. Idle is controlled by the ECM.
How is the timing? Should be 6 BTDC with EST wire diconnected. The EST wire carries the advance signal to the ECM. Its brown in color and to the driverside of the Distributor. It has to be disconnected when you set the timing.
I'm away for 4 days but the above should keep you busy. Good luck.
Jim
- Thread starter
- #10
Rebelrob
Well-known member
OK, I pulled the air cleaner assembly off and looked for loose bolts, screws, etc. Few were slightly loose but nothing that caused concern. There was this black tube that was just laying on the manifold near the first injector, and I could tell it needed to be plugged to the injector assembly. Looked like some vacuum tube not sure. So I plugged it back. It seemed to change the idle a little bit. Meaning it did drop to about 800 rpm at one time, then it went back up. I took it out for a drive, but did not really get it up to operation temp yet. But it seemed to change the idle slightly. As for the shifting hard from park to drive, still seems to be happening. Feels like the torque converter is loading up.
jdp6000
Well-known member
Its not the torque converter. The idle is way to high. there is a rubber bushing also just in front of the diff. Its probably gone.
jdp6000
Well-known member
Can you be more specific on the black tube location. Are you referring to the driver side TBI or passenger side TBI? The driver side TBI has two black tubes on goes to the MAP and the other joins to the air cleaner on the snorkel part. It controls the air intake valve on the air cleaner.
You should have two tubes on the passengerside TBI. One goes to the EGR solenoid and the other goes to the pollution control stuff.
Jim
Jim
You should have two tubes on the passengerside TBI. One goes to the EGR solenoid and the other goes to the pollution control stuff.
Jim
Jim
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- #13
Rebelrob
Well-known member
Thanks Jim, I will give some of these a try....and let ya know.
I did another post recently about finding a tube that was not hooked up to one of the TBI.
I did another post recently about finding a tube that was not hooked up to one of the TBI.
- Thread starter
- #14
Rebelrob
Well-known member
I have added some pics. The passenger side TBI. Its the tube in the middle of this pic. I re-attached it. Seemed to make some difference, not sure. Would this cause the idle to be higher?
Also coolant sensor you mention, I took another pic. Is this it (white plastic plug ?) near the intake radiator hose/thermostat?
Thanks,
R
Also coolant sensor you mention, I took another pic. Is this it (white plastic plug ?) near the intake radiator hose/thermostat?
Thanks,
R
jdp6000
Well-known member
Yes thats the CTS. looks like the new style so its not original.
That one hose should goes to the EGR solenoid. then a hose comes out to go to the EGR.
Jim
That one hose should goes to the EGR solenoid. then a hose comes out to go to the EGR.
Jim
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- #16
Rebelrob
Well-known member
OK. Well I orderd a CTS a few mins ago from the auto part store.
Where is teh EGR valve/solenoid located?
I have read that a bad EGR can cause high idle, is this correct? Do you recommend changing it?
Where is teh EGR valve/solenoid located?
I have read that a bad EGR can cause high idle, is this correct? Do you recommend changing it?
jdp6000
Well-known member
That hose on the passengerside TBI goes to the EGR solenoid its bolted to the valve cover or just beside it. From the solenoid comes a vaccum hose that goes to the EGR. Do you not have an EGR? Follow the hoses from the EGR valve.
I wouldn't replace it yet. Test the EGR valve. Start the car and push up on the EGR diaphram from underneath. if the EGR is good the car should try and stall.
Yes it can cause high idle if the EGR solenoid and EGR is bad. But you can take it out of the equation by disconnecting the EGRsolenoid hose on the TBI and plugging the hole.
Jim
jdp6000
Well-known member
EGR solenoid looks like this
Corvette, 1984 ACDelco EGR Solenoid Valve
I know the ad is for an 84 but it looks the same...
Corvette, 1984 ACDelco EGR Solenoid Valve
I know the ad is for an 84 but it looks the same...
jdp6000
Well-known member
You can see the EGR solenoid in your picture of that hose...see the bolt with the electical wires on the mainfold....thats what the solenoid attaches too.
- Thread starter
- #20
Rebelrob
Well-known member
OK, will give it a try.
Now is there a difference between EGR Solenoid and Valve or we talking about the same part? When you say plug the hole , do you mean on the EGR/hose or the opening on the TBI?
Now is there a difference between EGR Solenoid and Valve or we talking about the same part? When you say plug the hole , do you mean on the EGR/hose or the opening on the TBI?
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