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Shock Absorbers for my '90 C4

DonB

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 25, 2015
Messages
339
Location
Chicago
Corvette
2019 ZO6 in Elkhart Lake Blue
I've been looking at replacing my shocks. The car has KYB's on the front and they look like original on the rear. Bilsteins' are a bit out of my budget plus I'm NOT racing it(yet). I was looking at a new set of KYB5570 and 5571 gas shocks or Monroe Sensa-Tracs. Any pros or cons? Suggestions?

Thanks, Don
 
What has your racing got to do with the shocks you are asking about? Unless you are commissioning a set of shocks from Bilstein or asking them to valve it differently, what exactly do you have? Standard or FX3 shocks?

I bought AFTERMARKET and not AC Delco Bilsteins for the warranty. I had a Powerstroke that I vented the PCV fumes and it somehow got onto the shock and it leaked. They replaced it for free. I have an MB with 460K on the clock. If I have an issue with them tomorrow, it is replaced for free. AFAIK, the AC Delco ones are considered OEM and will not be replaced after the warranty is up while the Bilstein AFTERMARKET ones will.
 
What has your racing got to do with the shocks you are asking about? Unless you are commissioning a set of shocks from Bilstein or asking them to valve it differently, what exactly do you have? Standard or FX3 shocks?

I bought AFTERMARKET and not AC Delco Bilsteins for the warranty. I had a Powerstroke that I vented the PCV fumes and it somehow got onto the shock and it leaked. They replaced it for free. I have an MB with 460K on the clock. If I have an issue with them tomorrow, it is replaced for free. AFAIK, the AC Delco ones are considered OEM and will not be replaced after the warranty is up while the Bilstein AFTERMARKET ones will.

aklim, I have NO idea what you are talking about. I only asked opinions on some shocks I was considering since mine are old. I didn't say I was racing the car. It is a base model C4, NOT a Pratt & Miller C7.R
 
aklim, I have NO idea what you are talking about. I only asked opinions on some shocks I was considering since mine are old. I didn't say I was racing the car. It is a base model C4, NOT a Pratt & Miller C7.R

plus I'm NOT racing it(yet).

Wasn't sure what you were trying to do. If you plan to race it, you are going to need different shocks. Some C4s have the FX3 suspension. In which case, you have to remove it and run a "conventional" shock.

My point was that the Bilsteins you dismissed have a good warranty so before I get KYB, I would consider if I am going to keep the car for any length of time. Bilsteins can be re-valved later on if your needs change. I have gone a long distance on my Bilsteins and have them on every car be it a sedan, truck or performance car IF I PLAN TO KEEP IT. OTOH, if I were dumping it next year, I'd get whatever is cheap and on sale. They KYBs you suggest have one quality. They are cheap. Expensive isn't always good. Cheap is cheap for a reason. It's wanting.
 
I replaced the front with standard Delco shocks. they ended up being to soft and later change to a set of KYBs much happier with the handling.
 
Thanks, I "pulled the trigger" and ordered a set of the KYB's.
 
Update....I started looking deeper into my rear suspension. I guess it is better to know(I think). I'm now replacing all the bushing, wheel bearing, tie rod ends, spring bolts and half shaft U-joints(did the drive shaft last spring.) They were all in need of replacement. Some more than others, but when you are in this deep it is best to "clean house" (I hope.)
Furthermore,...Don't ever attempt this without a torch and impact tools. Most of the hardened steel bolts were ceased in the aluminum housings requiring some "heat & (gently)beat."
I went with quality Moog components and silicone bushings by Prothane from Energy Suspension.
 
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Here FOR SALE are 2 rear wheel hub assemblies with bearings by Moog. The part # is 513013. These will fit '90 to '96 Corvettes and many other GM cars. These retail starting at $99.95 and Moog is supreme quality suspension components.

For members I'll take $100 for the pair plus shipping. PM me if interested to make arrangements. 20160212_175902.jpg20160212_180941.jpg20160212_181005.jpg20160212_175938.jpg
 
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Another Update... I pulled the differential to replace the posi-trac discs, pinion, side & axle bearings with seals and set pre-loads. I also pulled the tank, and all the fuel lines for replacement as well as cleaning up the rear sub frame. They were looking a bit shabby. I figured, "If you are going to do it,.. Do it Right!" It never ends though....The deeper you go, the more you find.
Right Now,..I'm waiting on the fuel lines from Classic Tube.
 
I agree with your thinking on doing it right. Most likely you won't have to do it again.My 90 has just over 100k now and needs the rear suspension looked over.Not looking forward to the time and expense. For the amount I drive it I have second thoughts on even starting on it.Nothing on it is unsafe as of now.
 
I understand G. If you are a D.I.Y. kind of guy, the actual cost of the parts isn't bad at all. Most of the bushings were on Amazon or Rock Auto. It is very time consuming though. As I said earlier, I wouldn't attempt this without a torch and a 1/2" impact. You'll also need Metric sockets and wrenches. It is all Metric from 6mm on the U-joint cap retainers to the 36mm axle hub nuts. Most of the other are bolts are regular metric sizes. 10,13, 15,17 & 22mm.
 
Classic Tube - Fuel Line Update

It took a while but I got the replacement fuel lines in from the tank to the engine. Wow,..What a job! They wind around the frame, in and out/up and down. This is NOT a job for the casual wrencher. I fabricated and installed extra line holders where I felt they were needed; Especially where they wind around the rear frame by the rt. storage compartment and the wheel well, plus under the right rocker.

Let me say this. CLASSIC TUBE is awesome. They make fantastically accurate pre-bent fuel lines and they were quite reasonably priced. Mine were about $425. for both, front to back. They were shipped in a heavy duty, thick corrugated cardboard carton about the size of a coffin. They also were shipped FedEx so they weren't destroyed in shipment(like other companies do.) Each line was in two segments. They join as do the original factory ones do at the fuel filter. Their bending was near perfect with just a little minor persuasion needed for a tight fit hugging the frame. This is very understandable because there are numerous tight bends and runs in the lines. The lines were also wire wrapped for abrasion prevention in all the appropriate locations.

I'm completely satisfied with classic tube and I HIGHLY RECOMMEND them to any one endeavoring into this kind of refit. :happyanim:
 

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