shock actuator questions

[rkreigh]

hi folks,

I have a few questions about the shock actuator

mine cracked the plastic "wheel" inside it and popped off. I was able to fish the wheel out of the metal cup on top of the shock and epoxy it back together (hope it holds)

which way should a turn the shock gear before putting the actuator back.

how do I clear the service ride control code

does anyone have any used actuators they would like to sell

finally, are all the shock actuators the same, I have a lead on an actuator for a 90 but want to make sure it fits.

FYI,

they little buggers are $566 list, $355 discount and the dealer is the only place to buy them new. what a rip off!!

thanks for any advice, the service manual is a bit vague and hard for me to folllow.

 

[Chick]

The lock nuts on top of the shocks loosen up and this causes gears and actuator gears to break. Checking the lock nuts every once in a while and tightening them when needed can prevent them from breaking. Even using this preventative the actuators can break.

It won't hold. You have to bite it and replace them. Gluing it is not the fix.

If you want to know what will fit your car, how about telling us what YEAR your car is?

 

[Chick]

The 90 actuator will fit...90 thru 96 corvettes it is part number #22068666.

But please. I wish everyone would put what they have 'THE YEAR' in their sig or profile. We shouldn't have to guess or like in this case look it up for a SPAN of years.

 

[rkreigh]

thanks for the help, sorry, it's a 1993 ZR1.

that's great news that they are the same. I still have a couple of question though.

when you put the actuator back on, what direction should the shock be rotated (full clockwise or full counter clockwise).

how can I reset the code. the manual mentions driving on "not smoot" roads in all three positions for at least 15 minutes. seems strange.

is a tech 1 needed to reset the ride control since it's a separate computer.

sorry again for leaving out the year, that was dumb. until recently I had a 1990 a 1993 and a 1995 ZR1.

I'm down to just the 1993 LPE 368 ZR1 and a nice LT1 1994 auto for the Ms. thanks so much for the help!!!

 

[Chick]

This is the BOOK way of doing it, not the way I would do it. (I have my own tricks)

Word of caution...I would NOT use a 'used actuator'.
==============
If shock absorber is to be discarded, position shock absorber in a suitable vise with piston facing downward.

Measure approximately .50 inch from bottom of shock absorber and drill a .20 inch hole to release gas pressure from shock absorber.

Measure 5.5 to 6 inches from gas pressure release drill hole and drill another .20 inch hole to drain oil from shock absorber.

MODELS LESS SELECTIVE RIDE CONTROL

--------------------
Raise and support vehicle as needed, and remove wheel and tire.

Remove shock absorber from upper and lower attachments, Fig. 8.

If upper retaining nut is difficult to remove, remove wheel housing lower center panel to gain access to nut.

Reverse procedure to install.

MODELS WITH SELECTIVE RIDE CONTROL

Disconnect battery ground cable.

Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove wheel and tire assembly.

Support lower control arm with suitable jack stand.

Remove actuator retaining clip, then remove actuator from cup retainer. Note position of electrical connector for use during installation.

Remove shock absorber upper retaining nut, then remove cup retainer, Fig. 9.

Remove shock absorber retainer and upper insulator.

Remove shock absorber lower attaching nuts and bolts, then compress shock absorber and remove from vehicle.

Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
When installing actuator, a click should be noted when actuator is properly seated.

On 1991 models, selector gear should be located a minimum of .20 inch top of retainer, Fig. 10.

On 1992-94 models, selector gear should be located a minimum of .178 inch top of retainer, Fig. 10.

On all models, a minimum clearance of .315 inch should be maintained between wheel housing lower center panel and actuator electrical lead, Fig. 9. Electrical connector should be positioned as noted during removal.

 

[vettepilot]

rkreigh,
Are you referring to the actuater extension on the shock that rotates/ mates with the actuator? If so the procedure I used when I replaced mine was as follows:
Looking at the top of the shock: rotate the shock gear clockwise until it stops. This, if I can remember correctly, is the Tour or softest setting. Connect the electrical connector to the actuator and carefully place it on the frame or if it reaches, the tire just so it doesn't hang by the cord. Then, turn the igntion key to the "run" position, BUT don't actually start the engine. You just want to apply power to the ride computer and actuator. Make sure your console selector is on the Tour or lowest setting. If your computer/controller is working the actuator should now be in the Tour mode, or lowest setting. Now install the actuator on the shock, carefully so it seats fully, replace the retainer spring clip, and take it for a ride. If you don't get any DIC lights for the ride control, you have installed the actuator and adjusted the shock valve adjustment correctly. If you still get ride control codes, you may have to adjust the shock timing again until you get it correct.
I didn't have a manual to do mine, so I had to figure out how to "time" the shock(s) . If you have a manual, then follow those instructions.
Hope this answers your question.

What vettechick said about the actuator gear and trying to glue or otherwise repair those little plastic parts was right on... it might last a few minutes or hours.. maybe even days, but it doesn't provide a permanent fix.

When I replaced my shocks, I removed the little actualtor gear from the old shocks and kept them for spares.
The best price I ever found for the actual actuators was about $200.00 each, I think that was direct from Bilstein.. but not certain about that, it was several years ago.

vettepilot

 

[rkreigh]

I have the manual and it doesn't talk about doing this but that's exactly the answer I was looking for!!!

gm parts direct has them for $322 which is pretty pricey, but maybe that's the way to go.

thanks very much for the help!!!

 

[95ZR1#418]

Pricey, right. Check with Kurt at White Racing, he may be able to come up with something ,before you buy anything.

 

[rkreigh]

got the shock actuator, checked to be sure it works (it cycles with it off the shock and key on). I rotated the shock clockwise, powered up the acutator (key on), installed it, jumpered A to C 3 times and saw the service selective ride DIC light flash and go out, but after doing it the 3rd time, it comes back on.
do I need to drive the car?? this should have cleared the codes according the manual. anything special I need to do installating the shock actuator???

thanks for any tips.

 

[Hib Halverson]

The 90 actuator will fit...90 thru 96 corvettes it is part number #22068666.

This is not all correct.
The "90 actuator" only fits 90-95.

1996 did not use Selective Ride Control.

jumpered A to C 3 times and saw the service selective ride DIC light flash and go out, but after doing it the 3rd time, it comes back on.
do I need to drive the car??

If you cleared codes and the service ride control lamp comes on, again, then you still have a problem and a new code has set.

Also, the discussion of "shock timing" is irrelevant. As soon as you key-up, SRC self-tests then initializes setting all shocks at 60-deg. There is no shock timing adjustment necessarly and there is none listed in the factory service manual.

If you install and actuator or a shock and then have the system set codes, you've either created a new problem, which needs to be addressed. Also, if you've keyed-up three or more times without moving the vehicle DTC23 will set. In that case, clear codes.

 

[vettepilot]

But, that self test is assumming that all the shocks are set at the same setting to begin with. If one or more shocks are replaced, or their dampening setting rod has been rotated, the actuator/ ride control computor has no idea where that particular shock rod is positioned if it was not positioned to the actuator correctly. I don't have mine around anymore, but wasn't there a master spline on the top of the shock adjutsment rod that "keyed" into the shock actuator? That would ensure that the shock actuator rod was in the correct position as the actuator was installed.
vettepilot

 

[rkreigh]

fyi,

it looks like more than one actuator is bad.

I got a code 33 so I'm checking the drivers rear. my bet is that it's either popped off or damaged.

I had hit some road debris and it looks like the damage wasn't confined to the front acutuator.

thanks everyone for the help. I'll keep you posted to what I find.

cya.

 

[Hib Halverson]

But, that self test is assumming that all the shocks are set at the same setting to begin with. If one or more shocks are replaced, or their dampening setting rod has been rotated, the actuator/ ride control computor has no idea where that particular shock rod is positioned if it was not positioned to the actuator correctly. I don't have mine around anymore, but wasn't there a master spline on the top of the shock adjutsment rod that "keyed" into the shock actuator? That would ensure that the shock actuator rod was in the correct position as the actuator was installed.
vettepilot

Again, no "shock timing" procedure is necessary when installing new or rebuilt SRC shocks or new or repaird actuators. Actuators do not need to be "keyed" to some specific posiition.

Read the factory Service Manual. That explains how the system works and how it is serviced.

 

[Hib Halverson]

It was late last night when I posted the above and I screwed up the posting. There is more about this and maybe it will help.

The actuator is a dual-purpose device consisting of a reversible electric motor and a position sensor. The position sensor sends ground pulses to the SRC controller. By counting those pulses, it always knows in what position the bypass valve is.

Thus, no "shock timing" procedure is required during installation of actuators or shocks.

You simply reassemble the system per the service manual, then turn on the ign. key. The first time the system initializes the controller reads the bypass valve position by running each shock through its travel then setting the dampers to 60 deg for 92-95) and, I believe 120 for 89-91.

 

[rkreigh]

mystery solved. the rear actuator cracked in half just like the front.

whatever "road kill" I hit jolted both shocks severly enough to crack the plastic shock acutator base that holds them on.

the rear shock mount was bent back a bit too!!!

thanks for all the help. the fix is simple.

 

[kabnvtt]

Hey Ron glad you got the problem figured out. FYI I saw that Ecklers is selling actuators for around $179.00 each, Not a bad price. Didnt notice if they were new though.

 

[rkreigh]

most places don;t carry the actuators even though they are listed. gm has pretty much bought up all of em.

let me know guys if you find any places that have them in stock at that price.

 

[kabnvtt]

Never thought about them not having them in stock. Going to give them a call tonight to see. By the way did you repair the rear actuator with epoxy? If so how is it so far. I tried to epoxy my front back togther but when I put it back on it cracked where I seperated it. Attsuperfly sent me one and it worked perfect. I will post if ecklers has them in stock. Ok I just called them And that Item has been discontinued. Damn.:cry