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so..you take a stock C4 then

so what do you know about the dana 36.?
am i being unreasonable in thinking it will handle the 400+ ft lbs of a stroker..?

You think there might be a reason why they went to the 44 in the six speed ? ;) You should check salvage yards for a 44 , maybe even get lucky with gear ratio. My 90 has 3.33 gears , also didn't someone say the 44 was much cheaper to put gears in?

Glenn
:w
 
You think there might be a reason why they went to the 44 in the six speed ? ;) You should check salvage yards for a 44 , maybe even get lucky with gear ratio. My 90 has 3.33 gears , also didn't someone say the 44 was much cheaper to put gears in?

Glenn
:w

i dont attempt to second guess the factory..they do a lot of stuff i dont understand...
the 44 change out would be way higher than just changing gears..
and..
they didnt offer 3:75's from the factory so it's buy a dana 44 then buy new gears and then have it rebuilt and then have it changed out for my 36 and throw the 36 in the junk pile cause nobody is gonna buy it...lol;shrug
 
think you need C beam and drive shaft.
Otherwise I think the same.

Glenn
:w
 
could it be as simple as remove and replace the housing.?
to change a 36 to a 44.?
The entire swap is a bolt in but not just the pumpkin you need entire d44 (pumpkin and batwing) c beam and driveshaft


If your doing a high torque stroker why do you need 3.7X gears vice 3.45s or 3.33s?

A4 1st gear is low and with torque multiplication of converter you will be hard pressed to hook with street tires if you're making big TQ numbers and low rear gearing .

Pic of my D44 in my 95 A4 vert
DSC01843.jpg
 
The entire swap is a bolt in but not just the pumpkin you need entire d44 (pumpkin and batwing) c beam and driveshaft


If your doing a high torque stroker why do you need 3.7X gears vice 3.45s or 3.33s?

A4 1st gear is low and with torque multiplication of converter you will be hard pressed to hook with street tires if you're making big TQ numbers and low rear gearing .




Mike


speed in gears..with 700r4..@5000rpm

.....3:50..........3:75.........stock
1st...36.............34.............51
2nd...68.............64.............96
3rd...112............105...........156
4th...160............150...........225

and traction control to reduce tire burnage and carnage(when necessary)
there is not as much difference there as you might believe..
 
i dont attempt to second guess the factory..they do a lot of stuff i dont understand...
the 44 change out would be way higher than just changing gears..
and..
they didnt offer 3:75's from the factory so it's buy a dana 44 then buy new gears and then have it rebuilt and then have it changed out for my 36 and throw the 36 in the junk pile cause nobody is gonna buy it...lol;shrug

IMHO, you would only need to go with a D44 if you planned on running DR's and wanted the car to hook hard. Running street tires, you will be spinning the hell out of them, as I do. Now if you plan to mash the pedal, and launch harder than a rocket, you may think of more than a rear end. I don't know what the tranny's are rated at, but the stress to the entire drive line is certainly something to think about.
 
speed in gears..with 700r4..@5000rpm

.....3:50..........3:75.........stock
1st...36.............34.............51
2nd...68.............64.............96
3rd...112............105...........156
4th...160............150...........225

and traction control to reduce tire burnage and carnage(when necessary)
there is not as much difference there as you might believe..


OK if there is not much difference why spend the huge money when 3.33s would probably be a better choice for a stroker TPI......3.45s are not much different however, c4 D44s come from the factory stuffed with 3.33 or 3.45s (I agree that it is worth changing from 2.59s but a mid 3.xx ?)


However, you are not converter torque multiplication. and slippage ....and who shifts a high performance SBC at 5K my WOT shift points are set at 6850.


I have a little 355 LT1, with a 3.45 geared D44 and great rear tires (F1 GS D3) and I smoke them at will on dry straight pavement with a full tank of gas at speeds below 65 mph......lower rear gearing will just make it worse. Traction control doesn't help as much as you would think once you make decent power ( you will go through rear brakes quickly if you try to use it as a launch control)

I just spent some $$$ on DRM camber and trailing arm brackets and Banski Trailing arms IOT help hook up better. Believe me I would not have spent money on suspension upgrades if the car didn't need more traction.



I know that for the money it costs to pay someone to change the gears in a D36 you can just about pay for a D44 conversion (or if you stumble upon a deal do the conversion for cheaper) .
Newprocess2.jpg


DSC01841.jpg



Mike
 
I replaced my 3:45 gears with Dana 3:91 and with the porting, headers, corsa, reset cams and programming my HP peaks at 397 at 5500 rpm and only falls off to 394 at 7000 rpm. The dynoing was at 91 degrees.
 
I replaced my 3:45 gears with Dana 3:91 and with the porting, headers, corsa, reset cams and programming my HP peaks at 397 at 5500 rpm and only falls off to 394 at 7000 rpm. The dynoing was at 91 degrees.
Manual transmission and a high reving engine. OP has TPI and an Auto.....manuals need a little more gear since theres no torque multiplication from a Torque converter.
 

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