some random questions

[klb76]

Alright I got a couple of simple questions for you guys that I hope you can help me out with.

-My dad told me yesterday that a good cleaner for chrome is brake fluid, I didn't believe him because of the damage it does to paint. Sure enough though he hit my chrome with it and it shined right up? Is this gonna damage my finish?

-What is everyone's opinion on radiator stop leak? While pulling my radiator to fix a leak on the side, I manage to hit one of the fins. I put some stop leak in and it stopped the leak, but how long will it last?

-My engine is burning oil, and I am almost positive it is a valve problem. Is there anything I can do to slow down the oil drain until I get enough cash together for some engine work? Also am I doing damage to the engine until then?

-I have a leak in one of my rear calipers. The other three capilers on the car are fairly new, (within the last 6 months). Should I just replace the caliper or take a shot at re-sleeving it? If this one is anything like the other three as soon as I get on the bleeder it is gonna sheer right off. I had success with re-tapping for another bleeder but it wasn't much fun.

Thanks
klb

 

[BlackNBlue95]

Alright I got a couple of simple questions for you guys that I hope you can help me out with.

-My dad told me yesterday that a good cleaner for chrome is brake fluid, I didn't believe him because of the damage it does to paint. Sure enough though he hit my chrome with it and it shined right up? Is this gonna damage my finish?

-What is everyone's opinion on radiator stop leak? While pulling my radiator to fix a leak on the side, I manage to hit one of the fins. I put some stop leak in and it stopped the leak, but how long will it last?

-My engine is burning oil, and I am almost positive it is a valve problem. Is there anything I can do to slow down the oil drain until I get enough cash together for some engine work? Also am I doing damage to the engine until then?

-I have a leak in one of my rear calipers. The other three capilers on the car are fairly new, (within the last 6 months). Should I just replace the caliper or take a shot at re-sleeving it? If this one is anything like the other three as soon as I get on the bleeder it is gonna sheer right off. I had success with re-tapping for another bleeder but it wasn't much fun.

Thanks
klb

For your first question I can't answer that I don't like the idea of using brake fluid but I never did it so I can't say me I would stick with chrome polish...

second question stop leak is a temporary cure for your leak.. and also stop to think about it your putting some gunk in the coolant to stop a leak that gunk builds up inside the block.. I've seen what it can do especially at the rear of the block where there is less coolant flow.. it builds up over time and starts to look like sewage.. real gross stuff... better to repair the leak correctly then end up spending more in the long run..

3rd question about oil consumption is it burning oil all the time out the exhuast or just on start up? I would keep and eye on the oil level.. until you have money to fix it.. there is no easy cure.. don't trust a mechanic in a bottle..

4th don't mess around when it comes to breaks... I would probably replace that caliper too.. but if money is a big issue.. I would try to get the bleeder open first before wasting more time.. spray some penetrating oil into the bleeder let it soak for a while over night if you can.. then put a wrench on the bleeder but take a small hammer and tap on the top of the bleeder (to break the rust free).. while tapping try turning the wrench.. sometimes it works some times it will break off.. thats life after rust.. is that happens just replace the caliper because you don;t have much choice.. anyhow good luck with your projects..

-Rick

 

[klb76]

Yeah I know that stop leak builds up, the guy I work with was putting it is his 98 Dodge Dakota and ended up ruining his heater core. I guess that means I am on the hunt for a new radiator. I have heard griffen makes a nice radiator, any other suggestions?

The engine only smokes on start-up and sometimes when I let off the gas pedal, from what I read that is a valve problem. But I will have a compression test done to make sure. I am definitly not going to use the snake oil, haha, I haven't heard anything good about that yet.

Isn't money always an issue? but like you said, brakes aren't something to mess around with. I will pick another caliper up and throw it on there, sometimes I just need a little push before spending money.

 

[BlackNBlue95]

Yeah I know that stop leak builds up, the guy I work with was putting it is his 98 Dodge Dakota and ended up ruining his heater core. I guess that means I am on the hunt for a new radiator. I have heard griffen makes a nice radiator, any other suggestions?

The engine only smokes on start-up and sometimes when I let off the gas pedal, from what I read that is a valve problem. But I will have a compression test done to make sure. I am definitly not going to use the snake oil, haha, I haven't heard anything good about that yet.

Isn't money always an issue? but like you said, brakes aren't something to mess around with. I will pick another caliper up and throw it on there, sometimes I just need a little push before spending money.

Yea I hear that about the little push.. read my post about my trans job.. I had to think about replacing the pump still waiting to see how it turns out though..
http://corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17306

One other thing about the brake fluid for chrome cleaning.. even if it seems to work I would be cautious about any left on the wheel residue.. because it could sling off onto the paint and eat away at it.. I would probably hose them off or something to try to get as much as possible off..

 

[Last Ride]

-I have a leak in one of my rear calipers. The other three capilers on the car are fairly new, (within the last 6 months). Should I just replace the caliper or take a shot at re-sleeving it? If this one is anything like the other three as soon as I get on the bleeder it is gonna sheer right off. I had success with re-tapping for another bleeder but it wasn't much fun.

Thanks
klb

Not sure about the other questions, but I would definitely replace the caliper. I had one go out on my 78 in the front. A few days later, the other went out. I had ordered two new ones anyway, so I have always heard it was good to replace them in pairs. A few months after that, the REARS went south! I have had no problems since replacing (knock on wood). Now, I am thinking of stepping up the the SSBC aluminum calipers, but don't want to tempt fate by removing four calipers that stop the car short with no leaks. By the way, I got mine from Vette Brakes.

 

[qwall]

Re: Re: some random questions

don't trust a mechanic in a bottle..


-Rick

ditto, they're only temporary and in the long run do more damage then they help

 

[Bob Chadwick]

The engine only smokes on start-up and sometimes when I let off the gas pedal, from what I read that is a valve problem. But I will have a compression test done to make sure. I am definitly not going to use the snake oil, haha, I haven't heard anything good about that yet.

This is more likely a valve stem seal issue than a valve issue. Not nearly as hard a fix as valves.

Bob

 

[Stallion]

How would the valve stem be causing a problem like that? Could you explain how that would happen? I don't see the relation of the engine burning it because of that. Thanks!

TR

 

[Eric]

A tip for stuck bleed screws which is a slight variation of a trick to unstick decades old frame lines. Remove the caliper and let the fluid drain out of the line holes - press the pistons in to force out as much as you can. Now tak a torch give a couple brief shots of heat to that bleed screw and it will slide right out. Now put everything back together and bleed it clean.

For the chrome, brake fluid scares me if it's anywhere but in the brake lines. Get yourself some Nev-R-Dull.

Ditto on the stop-leak comments. If you don't give a rat's doody about the car then use it, if you want the car to perform and last as intended throw that stuff in the trash.

 

[GaryS]

"My dad told me yesterday that a good cleaner for chrome is brake fluid, I didn't believe him because of the damage it does to paint. Sure enough though he hit my chrome with it and it shined right up? Is this gonna damage my finish?"

Brake fluid MAY clean chrome but it will also clean your paint - right off of the car. I work very hard at keeping brake fluid in the container or the master cylinder. Try putting a drop of brake cleaner on a hidden spot. You will have blisters in your paint very quickly.

"What is everyone's opinion on radiator stop leak? While pulling my radiator to fix a leak on the side, I manage to hit one of the fins. I put some stop leak in and it stopped the leak, but how long will it last?"

Stop leak has worked for me IN AN EMERGENCY. I would suggest fixing the problem, not putting a band aid on it.

"My engine is burning oil, and I am almost positive it is a valve problem. Is there anything I can do to slow down the oil drain until I get enough cash together for some engine work? Also am I doing damage to the engine until then?"

In my limited experience (I had the same problem as you), smoking on start up is a valve stem seal issue. I wound up pulling the valve covers and replacing them myself. It is a DIY job but not fun or easy. As long as you have a normal oil level and don't mind a bit of smoke, worn valve stem seals shouldn't harm the engine.

"I have a leak in one of my rear calipers. The other three capilers on the car are fairly new, (within the last 6 months). Should I just replace the caliper or take a shot at re-sleeving it? If this one is anything like the other three as soon as I get on the bleeder it is gonna sheer right off. I had success with re-tapping for another bleeder but it wasn't much fun. "

Personally, I wouldn't sleeve only one caliper. If you don't have stainless steel calipers on all four, then just buy a rebuild kit for the offending caliper and rebuild it. Millions of GM cars are running around with calipers that have had a rebuild kit in it without having sleeves of stainless steel.

Gary

 

[intex99]

Just a thought on the radiator!Have you taken it to a well established radiator shop to see if they can fix it??It would be alot cheaper than a new one and far better than the stop leak!!I have taken a couple to radiator shops and they will pressure check them and all and will look and function as good as new but again make sure they are an established business!

 

[BlackNBlue95]

Just a thought on the radiator!Have you taken it to a well established radiator shop to see if they can fix it??It would be alot cheaper than a new one and far better than the stop leak!!I have taken a couple to radiator shops and they will pressure check them and all and will look and function as good as new but again make sure they are an established business!

Good Idea... my shop sends out radiators to another shop that specializes in radiators and A/C work only.. we usually try to sell a new or reman. but sometimes we will send them out dependig on the circumstances and have yet to have a problem.. plus when you send out your existing radiator.. you know it will fit properly when you go to reinstall it.. nothing like having some fan shroud bolts not line up or a mount that won't fit.. what a pita..

-Rick

 

[klb76]

I do have access to a good radiator shop that is local to me. I am somewhat hesistant to have the radiator fixed becuase it already has two leaks for sure, plus it appears there is another spot that has some kind of epoxy holding it all together. I found a replacement aluminum radiator for around $169 plus shipping that should be a direct fit. What kind of price range would it be to have a radiator repaired? Would a fix be reliable with so many leaks already?

klb

 

[BlackNBlue95]

I do have access to a good radiator shop that is local to me. I am somewhat hesistant to have the radiator fixed becuase it already has two leaks for sure, plus it appears there is another spot that has some kind of epoxy holding it all together. I found a replacement aluminum radiator for around $169 plus shipping that should be a direct fit. What kind of price range would it be to have a radiator repaired? Would a fix be reliable with so many leaks already?

klb

169$ is not a huge amount of money especially when dealing with vettes... the cost to repair a radiator probably is based on how many repairs it needs or how the shop charges you.. but anyhow if it's a direct it then i would probably just buy the aliuminum..

 

[Jack]

I found a replacement aluminum radiator for around $169 plus shipping that should be a direct fit. What kind of price range would it be to have a radiator repaired? Would a fix be reliable with so many leaks already? klb

If the $169 alum rad is the speedway/northern one ... it will fit with little ... or possibly no hassles ... but you should not expect it to be a "direct fit" ... an OEM replacement rad is a "direct fit."

Usually what becomes unrepairable is in the brass core ... the tanks can usually be repaired as good as new. A good rad shop can "recore" your rad ... probably end up as good as new ... and just as reliable ... will probably cost you more than $169 for a quality recore-rebuild job ... expect $175-$250. Performance will probably be as good as new ... but not a good as new aluminum rad.

The UNIVERSAL FIT aftermarket (race car type) aluminum radiators ... like the $169 speedway ... will LIKELY require you to get flexible rad hoses (any parts store) ... you MAY (or may not) have to bend/fab a small bracket or two (tin snips, a vise, pliers & drill motor) from aluminum (hardware store). True "direct fit" aluminum rads often cost $450 & up for vette.

BTW, every locale has a shop with a cutesy motto ... there's a nearby rad shop whose motto is "Best place in town to take a leak."
JACK:gap

 

[klb76]

Yeah the radiator I was talking about was the Speedway radiator, I guess the words I was looking for is "same size". As far as not being a direct fit is not a big problem at all as the bottem half of my radiator mount was shot so I welded a new one with two more brackets, I might just have to modify my brackets a little bit hopefully. I like the idea of the better performance, my car already runs around 200 with the electric fan but does get up a little higher with spirited driving.

True "direct fit" aluminum rads often cost $450 & up for vette.

I've definitly checked those out, thank god you steered me towards the speedway radiator. I think when I get back home I will give the radiator shop a call anyway but I will probably just go with the speedway.

klb

 

[Jack]

to bad we don't live closer ... we could order some other stuff & get free freight ... I'm cheap!
JACK:grinsanta

 

[klb76]

HAHA :L You read my mind... the only reason I haven't ordered the radiator yet is I am waiting for something else to break so I can buy more stuff! I'm cheap too, any other good deals from those guys I should take a look at? Funny how I justify spending more money to save money on shipping.

klb

 

[JohnZ]

DeWitt's now makes the EXACT replacement core for your radiator; any decent radiator shop can unsolder your existing tanks and install them on a new DeWitt's core, and you'll be in business, with the right core, right appearance, and correct original factory cooling capacity. www.dewitts.com

 

[GerryLP]

KLB,

Your dad is right about the brake fluid/tranny/powesteering fluid (is an old maintenance practice on aviation to care for the retractable gear actuators [one is suppose to apply it and wipe it dry with a clean lint-free rag]); however, I agree with the others here -there are other products avilable today that'll do the trick just as well and will not harm your paint job.

As far as the calipers...have you considered repairing it with a kit? My car has 3 stainless steels calipers, but the left-front caliper still is factory-original. I installed the repair kit out of necessity, and it's still working like a champ. Definetely helped me when I didn't have the $$$ for a stainless caliper.