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Spare Tire Carrier/Frame Question - 1964

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mark Stahl
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Mark Stahl

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I am having someone install factory stlyle exhaust (mufflers) and spare tire tub. The problem is when the spare tire tub is in place, where the locking latch bolt goes, it seems to be about 1/2 " - 1" back from where it should be. The center holes of the tub line up correctly, but the holes which mate up to the rear frame cross member are off. Also, the tire tub seems to hang down lower than it should, i.e., entire lip hangs below bottom of rear panel. I dont know if this is a tire tub issue or a possible frame issue. Would anyone know if there are any measurements I could take or some other way of visually being able to tell where the problem lies?

Also, if the rear-most section of the frame (kick-up section) had been replaced, would there be any possible reason why anyone would shorten the frame?
 
Do you have any pictures of your frame? Maybe your frame has be replaced with a later model frame. How does it fit in the rear wheel well area were the fiberglass covers the end cap. Has the fiberglass been cut there? What does your center cross member look like ?

Kevin
 
Kevin, Thanks for responding. I don,t have any good pictures of the frame at this point, due to car being at shop. I can,t find any signs of fiberglass being cut. The rear wheel openings look ok where the fiberglass cover the end caps. the cross-member is welded in place. I do believe do to the condition of frame that it may have been replaced it,s way to clean to be stock. If i suspect frame may have been changed, what else should i be looking for. How could i take measurements to see if something is up. The car runs straight does not crab, shims seem to be the same on both sides. Biggest problem again, is rear tire tub, bolt in rear is off by almost 1". Thanks
 
Mark Stahl said:
I am having someone install factory stlyle exhaust (mufflers) and spare tire tub. The problem is when the spare tire tub is in place, where the locking latch bolt goes, it seems to be about 1/2 " - 1" back from where it should be. The center holes of the tub line up correctly, but the holes which mate up to the rear frame cross member are off. Also, the tire tub seems to hang down lower than it should, i.e., entire lip hangs below bottom of rear panel. I dont know if this is a tire tub issue or a possible frame issue. Would anyone know if there are any measurements I could take or some other way of visually being able to tell where the problem lies?

Also, if the rear-most section of the frame (kick-up section) had been replaced, would there be any possible reason why anyone would shorten the frame?

the rear hanger bolt, the one that you snug up to keep the tub up in place, it moves around a bit, are you sure it is truly out of position, you cannot get it into position? If it is simply not long enough that is another issue entirely. Perhaps the tub itself is located too far forward?

As for the tub lip not closing completely and forming a weathertight seal, what size is the spare? most tire sizes will NOT allow the tub to close up completely, mine (215/70R15) certainly does not, and even an original KO or Goldline tire required longer hanger bolts to be used by the factory, meaning the lid would not seal.
 
I'll be putting my '64's tub back up in place later today. I'll see what measurements I can get for you and post them this evening.
 
Before I start measuring everything in sight, let's make sure I know what you need.

Are you saying that the 4 bolts inside the tub that hold it onto the frame are ok?

And the only problem is that the bolt holes for the rear hanger bolts that go through the tub are in the wrong place? Bolt holes in the rear crossmember too far towards the front of the car or too far towards the rear?

Measuring from the center of the driver's side hanger bolt hole (on the crossmember behind the licence plate) to the driver's side rear tub to frame hole (in the bolted in gas tank support crossmember) center to center is 13" on mine. Same on passenger side.

Could be your rear crossmember has been hit once and not correctly straightened. Shouldn't have any affect on the way the car drives. If it is pushed forward, the tub won't sit where it should and may appear to be too low, although the tubs were still quite visible on correct installations.
 
I found out from a past owner that frame was replaced. I guess my real question is, how will I know if I have the wrong carrier (the carrier was given to me with car) it looks correct . or another year frame, The bolts that hold upper tub up are lining up perfectly, the problem is with the locking bolt where the tapping is located on the rear cross- member it seems to be back more than it should be, towards the front of the car it sounds strange I realize. I think this even stumped the person doing the work! And is a well known corvette shop in new york. There must be some books on this with measurements. The shop where car is now had a 65 and something was different. I do not get it. Everyone thanks mark
 
Just finished putting mine back into a replacement frame. I ended up with the same issue. After reading the AIM almost cover to cover, here's what I think they did on the line.

The only "hard fixture points" are the rear hanger assembly mounting holes and the front hanger mounting holes. First, the tub was bolted to the rear hanger at the rear crossmember. Since the bolts holding the tub to the frame are self tapping, I imagine that there was a template of sorts that was used to drill through the tub and into the frame, then the bolts were driven in. Same type bolts are used for the fuel and brake lines.

So, If something is changed, like my frame or your tub, the "drilled on the line" holes in the tub and frame may be off a bit. Use the rear hanger as the "fixed point and go from there.

Luckily for me, the only holes that didn't line up perfectly were the two that go into the fuel tank crossmember. Since that crossmember is movable, I probably got it off a little when I installed the new tank. It was easier for me just to open up the holes in the tub with a round file to line up the bolt holes instead of trying to move that tank and straps around again.
 
NICE!!!..................... THANK YOU!!............ Never Even Thought About That!........I will pass this info on to the person doing the work for me..........
 
Does anyone know what length the bolds are that hold the spare tire carrier box in place are. Mine has four in of varying lengths so am guessing they have been replaced. Also could a long one damage the tank. Haven't had a problem but always like to avert them if i can. Thanks
 
The new bolts I got from LICS were 1" long, used with flat washers. Same as the ones used for fuel and brake line clips along the frame.
 
Thanks, not sure any of my bolts the right length so will replace all with I" long ones. See they should be self tapping also. As always thanks for the help and the education. Jim
 

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