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Sports seat question / problem

HPG

Well-known member
Joined
May 24, 2003
Messages
255
Location
Bel Air Md.
Corvette
99 FRC MN6
Both sport seats in my 93 won't work. If I push the switch, I can hear and feel the pump motor click. That's all it will do. Is there an easy fix rather than pay the $100+ for each kit for something I would rarely use. Thanks for any help.
 
Please explain "seats won't work". The seats don't move to & fro, up or down, bladders don't inflate, what?

If your concern is with the air pump that inflates the lumbar bladders, that is an easy fix, if the bladders are not ruptured. Tell us what you are trying to fix, and I bet we can help.
 
HPG said:
Both sport seats in my 93 won't work. If I push the switch, I can hear and feel the pump motor click. That's all it will do. Is there an easy fix rather than pay the $100+ for each kit for something I would rarely use. Thanks for any help.
Sorry, It was a poor description of the problem. It's the three bolsters I think they call them ( three buttons and one switch on the side of the seat ) that won't inflate, not the track. That still works, at least for now.
 
I think you mean 'bladders', not bolsters. The bolsters are the side pads that keep you in position during spirited driving.

Start by removing the seat cushion for access to the air pump. The pump is black with 3 clear air tubes attached. You write that the pump motor clicks, but doesn't run. That tells me that you have power to the switch, and that the diaphragm is ruptured and jamming the pump mechanism.

To repair the diaphragm, it is not necessary to remove the pump, but removal makes the job easier. Unplug the electrical connections, the clear tubing, and remove the pump. Remove 4 small black screws to access the diaphragm. Open the pump and you will find a round rubber device that has been split open. That is the diaphragm. Carefully remove the connecting pieces, noting how they are assembled. With the diaphragm removed, you can make a replacement diaphragm using a piece of old bicycle inner tube. Some have used a rubber glove, but I think you will find that an inner tuber is more durable. Using the old diaphragm as a pattern, trace around the outer edge and cut your new diaphragm. The diaphragm must fit properly into the pump housing, so care is required in cutting around the perimeter. Assemble the pump, and reinstall in your vette. The first pump will take a little time, the second pump will be a snap.
 
6speeder said:
I think you mean 'bladders', not bolsters. The bolsters are the side pads that keep you in position during spirited driving.

Start by removing the seat cushion for access to the air pump. The pump is black with 3 clear air tubes attached. You write that the pump motor clicks, but doesn't run. That tells me that you have power to the switch, and that the diaphragm is ruptured and jamming the pump mechanism.

To repair the diaphragm, it is not necessary to remove the pump, but removal makes the job easier. Unplug the electrical connections, the clear tubing, and remove the pump. Remove 4 small black screws to access the diaphragm. Open the pump and you will find a round rubber device that has been split open. That is the diaphragm. Carefully remove the connecting pieces, noting how they are assembled. With the diaphragm removed, you can make a replacement diaphragm using a piece of old bicycle inner tube. Some have used a rubber glove, but I think you will find that an inner tuber is more durable. Using the old diaphragm as a pattern, trace around the outer edge and cut your new diaphragm. The diaphragm must fit properly into the pump housing, so care is required in cutting around the perimeter. Assemble the pump, and reinstall in your vette. The first pump will take a little time, the second pump will be a snap.
Thanks, that's exactly what I ment. I guess you can't come over and help with the job. :L I'll give it a try, just have to find an old inner tube. Kids bike days are long gone. Thanks again for the help.
Ruby3.jpg
Love my Ruby
 
HPG said:
.... Kids bike days are long gone....

It is not a requirement that the inner tube be "old". You can buy a new inner tube for about $3, and make about 100 diaphragms for sale around the neighborhood.
 
6speeder said:
It is not a requirement that the inner tube be "old". You can buy a new inner tube for about $3, and make about 100 diaphragms for sale around the neighborhood.
I'm old so I guess that it should be old as well :L Thanks again for the help.
 
6speeder said:
Or, you can order direct replacement parts: http://www.madvet.com/shop?frame=3.6084.

If you have lost interest in repairing the pump to inflate the lumbar bladders, you can always use a pillow (with a ruby cover, of course).
Both are broken, I would probably not use them very much s o to spend $144 for each, is a waste of money. I'll try the inner tube and if I screw it up, I'll just leave them alone.
 
You only need the pump - $45 X 2. Click on the link, then on #603-034. It is a direct bolt-on. Four little screws (each pump), $90, and you will regain your posture. Driving your vette in a slumped position is not allowed.
 
6speeder said:
You only need the pump - $45 X 2. Click on the link, then on #603-034. It is a direct bolt-on. Four little screws (each pump), $90, and you will regain your posture. Driving your vette in a slumped position is not allowed.
Ok, thanks again. I'll pull the motor sometime next week and take a look $90 is OK. I also need two of the rim center caps, they are $49 each. :rotfl :W Notice the two on the R/S above are faded.
 
HPG said:
..... I also need two of the rim center caps.... .

They appear on ebay at times. I picked up 3 for about $15/ea. You might check around some of your local custom paint shops for a quote to refinish.

If you have never removed a cap from the wheel, they should only be removed with the wheel off the car, unless you want to destroy the semi-rigid plastic tabs that secure the cap to the wheel.
 
Someone of the forum told me he used Canyon Red spray paint to redo the center caps. That color matches the Ruby. I have been looking on ebay for a couple weeks with no luck. I'm going to try the spray and if it does not turn out, I'll just replace them.
 
Update on the seats. Pulled both pump motors and found that both diaphrams are broken. Off to find something to use as a replacement diaphram. Thanks for all of the help. Pulled off the center caps and very carefully taped off the logo and circle. Painted using the Canyon red paint and they look fine. Since they are not in direct contact with the paint, you can't see any differance.
 
Nice going, Howard.... you are half-way finished. Just take your time making new diaphragms. It is important that they fit within the alloted space.... not too big.... not too small... just right.. I found it easier to start with a square piece of inner tube so that I could precisely locate the center hole for the actuator screw, and then cut the circle.

Kudos on refinishing the center caps.... you might consider submitting a TECH TIP on your process...... you are $100 ahead.
 
Geting the pump out and in was not a problem. I made the diaphram from a bike inner tube. Put it all back together and the motor ran, but would not pump up the seat. I guess the diaphram is wrong. It fit the valve body perfectly, but appears to be too loose. I think it's too thick, I will try a rubber glove and see if that works. Here are some shots of the valve.
100_0215.jpg

100_0218.jpg

100_0222.jpg

100_0224.jpg
 
Looking at the finished diaphragm, it appears in the photo not to be perfectly round. It may be just the photo, but if the diaphragm does not provide a seal, air will not be pumped to the bladders.

To test the pump, remove the tubing, activate the pump and place your finger near one of the exit ports. If you feel air flow, you know the pump is working. If there is air flow and the lumbar bladders are not inflating, then the bladders have ruptured.

If the bladders are completely deflated, which I assume to be the case, it may take 5-10 seconds for you to see the bladders start to inflate. Let's hope the bladders are not ruptured, as that requires removing the seat leather and foam from the seat back for access.
 
That was the most difficult, getting it round. I had to trim it, so I guess that's why I looks like that. I put a silicone spray on the rubber to prevent it from binding when I tighten the valve body. It appeared to fit properly with no gaps in the half of the valve body. I'll run the pump with the hoses off to see if I am getting air. If so, I'll try again. Good project for a rainey day. Too bad I can't but just the diaphrams. :cry
 
If the diaphragm fits the body with no internal leaks, and the two pieces of the valve body are secured tightly to prevent external leaks, the pump will work.
 
Thanks, I'll give it another shot. I can take it out blindfolded with one hand now. Off now to visit my mother-in-law :ugh in the hospital.
 

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