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Start problem '86

  • Thread starter Thread starter limomanb
  • Start date Start date
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limomanb

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Well, I thought I had everything fixed. :eyerole I was out and about today, shut the car off and went into a store for about 10 minutes. When I tried to start the car, I noticed that it cranked a lot slower than usual...I had to let off and try starting it again...started but barely. Said to myself "better not turn this thing off until at home". I was right...lo and behold it wouldn't start! I was watching the voltage on my way home and it looked normal...13.7-13.9 ish. I have power elsewhere (radio,lights, headlights). What are you guys thinking? Starter? It turned over once...then nothing...tried it a second time and nothing!
As a side note...noticed my horn didn't work today either...it worked yesterday because I had to blast someone with it after getting cut off. :mad
 
How old is the battery you have in the car? I am thinking this could be the problem, it sounds like it wont hold a charge. If you have a battery tester you can test each cell of the battery if it is not a sealed one, and then you will now if the batter is bad or good.


Justin
 
Update:

Let the car sit for about an hour, went back out and tried it. Got about 1/2 turn out of the engine and that's about it. No clicking...but on the 1/2 turn I did get was very slow and sounded different, I still have lights, radio etc...
I have had the car since 7/2003...so the battery is at least 1 and 1/2 years old...probably older.
 
When you went back out did you happen to check the voltage reading on the car? You can always hook up a voltmeter across the battery to check it too.
 
I'm starting to think more and more that this is a starter problem. Went back out and started the car...it turned slow a couple of times then started...tried this 3-4 times and it started every time, although a little slow. Headlights were normal...voltage at 13.7...this is why I'm thinking starter. Made sort of scraping or grinding noise while turning over as well. SES light on now as well. I'm not a wrench...so I don't have many tools here. I was just trying to narrow it down before I went out and bought a new battery and have it turn out to be some thing else.
 
If you now have a SES light you need to pull the codes from it. To do that I believe you can use a paper clip or Autozone used to have little keys that you use to jump the top left prongs on your diagnostic clip that is under the steering wheel all the way to the right. The code will flash three times I believe then it will move to the next one. If you do that and then post what the number is I can tell you what code it is.
 
You can run a quick test of the starter to eliminate or confirm that it's the culprit in this situation: check for 12-volts in the wire to the starter while you crank it.

Heat is bad for starters; higher temperatures means higher electrical resistance which means higher system current draw when starting hot. That may be enough to keep a marginal starter from working when hot, although it'll work fine when cold.

Also, you might want to check the battery and battery cables and terminals. Be sure both ends of the battery cables are checked for proper connection and are clean.

The starter draws a lot of current. That's probably why the other accessories appear to be working fine while your starter won't.
 
I guess my question now would be....would a bad starter/solenoid throw a code??
 
Fair enough. Can the starter affect other things that will throw a code? I went out after a few hours and started the car cold. Started no problem. I'm thinking a starter brush now after the ugly sound I heard earlier. Will bring it in tomorrow and update.
 
The code might have occured during the whole process of starting the car. It is hard to tell what caused it but some anomlay could've occured. I have seen solenoids not work after the car was hot. Usually I think they either work or dont work, however i could be wrong. Either way hope you get it fixed.

Craig
 
vetteboy86 said:
The code might have occured during the whole process of starting the car. It is hard to tell what caused it but some anomlay could've occured. I have seen solenoids not work after the car was hot. Usually I think they either work or dont work, however i could be wrong. Either way hope you get it fixed.

Craig
As amplification, the ECM should store the code. You can paper clip the ALDL and read the flashes.

Joe
 
But wait, there is more. I ran across this website http://web.telia.com/~u60505093/index.htm and have built the cable suggested. I am reading data from my ECM using this guy's (free) software and my nifty cable built for $8 bucks of parts that you can find at radio shack.

How does this relate to your starter problem...It really does not other than reading codes. The software does measure volts of your charging system so you could look at that.

Merry Chirstmas,
Joe
 
Yes use a paper clip to short out the first two prongs, then turn the key to the one position, I believe if you have done it right the coolant fan will kick on for a minute then off. Good luck
 
Update

Turned out to be the starter as I suspected. Replaced the solenoid as well. Bought NEW starter as opposed to rebuilt. I don't trust rebuilt. Good to go....for now. ;)
 
That is great news. Glad to see you back on the road.


Craig
 
Great news!

Sorry to be late, but you can also check if the battery is low by cranking the car with the headlights ON. If they go dim, the battery is having all the juice sucked out by the starter's drain. If the lights do not dim appreciatively, the starter or solenoid is bad.

A good remanufactured part can be good as new, if the rebuilder uses quality parts and redoes everything that wears.
 

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