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starter problems

Y

yakamaniac

Guest
ok so i just purchased my first vette i am so excited but i am having a problem.

My 81 corvette starts fine in the morning afternoon and evening but after i drive for a while then stop and say run into store or something i come back out and it wont start. I let it set for a while then it will start so i am thinking heat or bad cyliniod? if starters get old do they loose heat resistance? I have a heat shield wrap on order that wraps around starter i just hope it wont insulate the heat other than reflect it.

any suggestions
Mike
Yakima, WA
 
First, Welcome to the world of Corvettes.
Second, Welcome to CAC.

There are a couple of things it could be. You say that if the engine is at operating temperature and you turn it off, it won't restart. What will it do? Does it crank? Does it click and do nothing? Does it try to start? More information will help find the cause.

If it cranks and tries to start, then it probably isn't the starter.
If it is not the starter, it could be the carburetor. If they are set too rich, they can flood the engine. If it sits a few minutes the gas evaporates and it will start.
DON"T ADJUST THE CARB UNTIL YOU"RE SURE IT IS THE PROBLEM.

I'm sure other members (with more experience) will have some more ideas.

Good luck, and enjoy the car!
 
Starter probs

it clicks but doesnt start , i have new battery and new cables installed :) if you open the battery compartment you can hear it making contact'
 
starter probs

is there some out there better than others for heat , my engine runs at normal heat but the person i bought this from had headers and new exhaust put on and they seem close to starter does this matter ( most diagrams make it look close anyway)

Mike
 
is there some out there better than others for heat , my engine runs at normal heat but the person i bought this from had headers and new exhaust put on and they seem close to starter does this matter ( most diagrams make it look close anyway)

Mike

headers are a pain.. i have them and a lot of HP to make heat with it...

my starter does the same thing.. the heat wrap didn't work... i am going to be using a racing style heavier starter .. about all you can do.... check the wiring to the starter but it is heat soaking and there is not much you can do but replace the starter with one that is made not to heat soak...
 
I had the same trouble a few years ago on my 79. Changed the starter out and never had anymore trouble. I have headers also.
 
My starter is doing the same thing since last week. First time it clicks, then cranks on the second try. It would have to start doing this while it was being inspected, wouldn't it?:hb
 
Starter probs

im just debating on spending the extra 100 to get the high geared starter thats supposed to be better under heat or just get the oem rebuilt
 
awsome

thank you for all the input you guys are awsome! gonna put a new starter in tomorrow i will keep ya posted!
 
dont forget to check the wiring while your down there. mine looked like it was cut up by a butcher.
 
starter

well i put in the new starter and so far so good i will keep everyone posted :)
ty again to everyone for all the help

Mike:D
 
headers are a pain.. i have them and a lot of HP to make heat with it...

my starter does the same thing.. the heat wrap didn't work... i am going to be using a racing style heavier starter .. about all you can do.... check the wiring to the starter but it is heat soaking and there is not much you can do but replace the starter with one that is made not to heat soak...
Hello, I just read your reply...could you please tell me what wires are suppose to be hooked up to the starter. I am havibg problems starting my 73 when it gets hot. I don't have anything hooked up to the lower smaller post on the solenoid. Sould there be anything hooked up to it? There is a small guage red wire in the harness thats not connected to anything.....Thank you..bmack
 
Hello, I just read your reply...could you please tell me what wires are suppose to be hooked up to the starter. I am havibg problems starting my 73 when it gets hot. I don't have anything hooked up to the lower smaller post on the solenoid. Sould there be anything hooked up to it? There is a small guage red wire in the harness thats not connected to anything.....Thank you..bmack

There are three terminals - the top (large) one has the positive battery cable and a 12-ga. red power feed wire, the (small) "S" terminal closest to the block has a 12-ga. purple wire from the ignition switch that activates the starter, and the (small) "R" terminal on the outboard side has a small yellow wire that feeds a full 12 volts direct to the coil (+) terminal when cranking.

:beer
 
Thanks John....so there SHOULD be a wire hooked up to the R terminal Hmmm. Would that be why the thing is hard to start when its hot? (I wait 20 minutes and it then wants to start) It starts great when its cold. Question...could I hook up a small ga. wire from the positive post of the coil directly to the R termial. Would that solve my problems? Thanks again John
 
It's the starter or solenoid, as long as the cables are tight, they will react the same hot or cold. Bad cables or loose connections will give the same no start cold. Mine did this once along time ago, I changed the solenoid no problems since, the solenoid tells the starter to turn.

I used a small propane torch to heat up my solenoid on a cold motor, result, failed to start, just clicked, tossed the solenoid.
Good Luck
 
Thanks John....so there SHOULD be a wire hooked up to the R terminal Hmmm. Would that be why the thing is hard to start when its hot? (I wait 20 minutes and it then wants to start) It starts great when its cold. Question...could I hook up a small ga. wire from the positive post of the coil directly to the R termial. Would that solve my problems? Thanks again John

The yellow wire wouldn't make any difference for your hot-vs-cold problem, which is probably your starter solenoid. The "R" terminal for the yellow wire is energized from inside the solenoid by a copper disc that feeds it a full 12 volts directly from the end of the battery cable stud, and feeds it to the coil (+) terminal so the coil gets a full 12 volts while cranking. When the key is in the "run" position, the coil gets reduced voltage (7-8 volts) through the resistance wire from the ignition switch to increase the life of the points.

:beer
 

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