starting problem

[mike025]

Greetings, Fix one problem on this car and find 3 more!
I have a 1974 Corvette that had the "traditional" hard start problem when hot.
I changed the starter with a mini-starter and a heat shield and that seemed to fix the problem.
I also converted the old points distributor with a new mallory unilite distributor. I used the ballast resistor and wired everything correctly.

The car runs great. The problem is it takes a lot of cranking to start. At times, im not even sure it will re-start. I can see there is fuel in the filter (its transparent). The new starter only had the "S" terminal. THe "R" terminal is not being utilized and i left it disconnected.

Also, whats strange is that when cranking...if you let a little pressure of the key...it will start. If you hold the key down...it cranks and sometimes will start.
Will a bad ignition switch cause this problem?

Sorry this message got a little long...but, at this point ive really had it!
Thanks in advance for the help! Mike

 

[wishuwerehere82]

Also, whats strange is that when cranking...if you let a little pressure of the key...it will start. If you hold the key down...it cranks and sometimes will start.
Will a bad ignition switch cause this problem?

In a word YES.
You can hook up a volt meter to the battery connection on the distributor and check to see if the ignition switch is turning on the voltage to the ignition. Just to make sure, before you spring for a new ignition cylinder.

 

[brusso]

I'd check the balist resistor wiring. It (ballist resistor) is not to be use while cranking. this gives the coil the added boost that it needs for starting. The ballist resistor cuts the battery voltage to coil down to about 6-8 volts while running. Now take into account that you are cranking and battery voltage drops down to say 10 volts instead of 13.8-14.2 while running. I would guess that battery voltage to coil, while cranking, with your settup is down to 4-5 volts. It should be the same as the voltage available from battery durning cranking.

 

[mike025]

thanks for all the help! I'll hook up a volt meter to the postitive side of the coil while cranking, to see how many volts are present

 

[titan81]

Also if the voltage is close, but not yet there, your
overdrawing current. If the voltage is not real close (2V or more off)
I agree check the wires, it may be causing surging.

 

[curtis]

Hind site. Gm HEI would probably give you more reliability than points type distributor. With what you have now it sounds like the distributor gets no voltage when ignition in the cranking position which points to switch or wiring problems. I don't understand why the "R" terminal is not used in your setup. Isn't that normally where the resistor gets wired with a points ignition? could you enlighten me a little?

 

[brusso]

thanks for all the help! I'll hook up a volt meter to the postitive side of the coil while cranking, to see how many volts are present

Let us know what you find.

 

[brusso]

The new starter only had the "S" terminal. THe "R" terminal is not being utilized and i left it disconnected.

Don't do this before it gets confirmed, but I thought that you would put both wires on the one small terminal, if only one was available? Or better yet, get a starter that has both terminals.