Subfixer's latest rebuild pics

[Subfixer]

Here are the Pics as promised:

This is about all you can see now that it's all covered up. Sorry about the quality, but it's a cheap digital camera.

 

[67HEAVEN]

You're making great progress. You'll be driving it in no time.

 

[JonM]

Are you going to give Donald H. Rumsfeld a one way ride?

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

Sweeeeeet........I'm impressed... Very very clean looking. Nice work..

 

[Subfixer]

Looks like I may have made a mistake on the T-stat cover color. I've seen it Orange and also Silver (or should it be natural or cast-blast). I have to redo the upper hose to get the kink out, so if anyone knows the correct color, please let me know.

While I'm asking questions.... Does the temp wire run down the left or right side. The only illustration I could find was in the LICS catalog where they show left side, although most engine pics I've seen show right side. Not shown clearly in the AIM.

Same goes with the heater hose to the intake manifold... in front of the Alternator adjusting bracket or behind?
Thanks.

 

[1KULC7]

If its the L76 engine (solid lifter HP) it should be cast (silver).

 

[JohnZ]

Looks like I may have made a mistake on the T-stat cover color. I've seen it Orange and also Silver (or should it be natural or cast-blast). I have to redo the upper hose to get the kink out, so if anyone knows the correct color, please let me know.

While I'm asking questions.... Does the temp wire run down the left or right side. The only illustration I could find was in the LICS catalog where they show left side, although most engine pics I've seen show right side. Not shown clearly in the AIM.

Same goes with the heater hose to the intake manifold... in front of the Alternator adjusting bracket or behind?
Thanks.

The temp sender wire routes down the inboard side of the passenger side valve cover.

The thermostat housing is silver (or natural if it's aluminum).

The 5/8" heater hose routes forward of the alternator brace, and there's a screw-attached clamp that wraps around both heater hoses and attaches to the alternator mounting bracket below the alternator to keep them from creeping forward into the alternator belt.

 

[74bigblock]

Looks great!!!! Keep going... almost there! Thanks for the pix

 

[ctjackster]

The temp sender wire routes down the inboard side of the passenger side valve cover.

The thermostat housing is silver (or natural if it's aluminum).

The 5/8" heater hose routes forward of the alternator brace, and there's a screw-attached clamp that wraps around both heater hoses and attaches to the alternator mounting bracket below the alternator to keep them from creeping forward into the alternator belt.

phew, I passed!

[see my post in "other forum", and reference to my L76]

 

[ctjackster]

oh, and get a proper AC cap on that surge tank boy!

[see what kind of nit-picky crap you unleash when you ask these "is this right?" questions?]

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

oh, and get a proper AC cap on that surge tank boy!

[see what kind of nit-picky crap you unleash when you ask these "is this right?" questions?]

And as Bill B says....Make sure it's the correct Stainless Steel type...Or you could end up with a bad case of an electrical conflict in your cooling system..

 

[Subfixer]

OK, OK....... Wow, guess I asked for that.....:eyerole Looks like a repaint for the Thermo housing. Hoses are already in the bracket under the Alt, and the 5/8 hose is correctly positioned.

Got busy this afternoon...:bang
1. Redid the temp wire today with the correct clips.
2. Fixed the kink in the upper rad hose.
3. Welded in the center body mount brackets.
4. Replaced the m/c brake line and front left brake line junction block (first set leaked).
5. Bled the brakes again.
6. Cut off the upper rear shock bolts that I had put in the wrong direction and couldn't remove because the body was in the way. Put new bolts in the correct way.

Started it up and DROVE out of the garage for the first time in 20 months!

Pulled the E-brake and promptly broke the right side brake cable AGAIN! The little ball on the end popped off. Same thing it did the first time. I hope I can get LICS to replace it this time instead of repairing it like they did before.

Waiting for my new Bilstein HD shocks and substitute air cleaner to arrive. Still have to put the interior back together and a million other little things. Maybe tomorrow.....

OK, I'll get the correct tank cap!!!! Jeez......:W
Thanks guys.

 

[youwish2bme]

What did the replacement ebrake cable look like? Did it look correct? I bought the SS version from Inline tube and it looked exactly the same as the original down to the rubber bellow boots.... Dave...

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

Waiting for my new Bilstein HD shocks and substitute air cleaner to arrive. Still have to put the interior back together and a million other little things. Maybe tomorrow.....

Remember.......Make sure the Hole center to Hole center of the New rear shock does not exceed 14.5 Inches......This is "no no" for the diff .

Also Bill B says.. Make sure you put the Lock Washer under the head of the bolt on the new rear upper shock mount bolts. Do not install it under the nut......

 

[Subfixer]

Dave - The replacement E-brake cable is the one that goes to the right rear wheel. LICS sells 2 types, original looking ($$$) and "replacement" quality. I went with the replacement style. Rubber/plastic coated jacket vs the original metal jacket. They fit well, but the swedged ball at the end that meets the left cable at the cable connector popped off. I'll give them one more chance to get it right. If not, I'll put the originals back on. At least they worked for 40 years. How much were your's from Inline Tube? They have a website? Thanks.

VNV - I've been keeping up with your project and I do remember the 14.5" requirement for the shocks. (was also in Bair's instructions for the trailing arms). Thanks for the tip on the lock washer. I would have put it under the nut. (wonder why it goes under the bolt head.....besides the fact it's hard to get to)

 

[youwish2bme]

Paul here is the website.. If I remember correctly it was about 120.00 for the cable.. Fit was great and the look is correct..Also it's SS... Dave..

http://www.inlinetube.com/

 

[I'mAVettehead]

Good luck on getting LIC to make good on anything. :eyerole

OK, OK....... Wow, guess I asked for that.....:eyerole Looks like a repaint for the Thermo housing. Hoses are already in the bracket under the Alt, and the 5/8 hose is correctly positioned.

Got busy this afternoon...:bang
1. Redid the temp wire today with the correct clips.
2. Fixed the kink in the upper rad hose.
3. Welded in the center body mount brackets.
4. Replaced the m/c brake line and front left brake line junction block (first set leaked).
5. Bled the brakes again.
6. Cut off the upper rear shock bolts that I had put in the wrong direction and couldn't remove because the body was in the way. Put new bolts in the correct way.

Started it up and DROVE out of the garage for the first time in 20 months!

Pulled the E-brake and promptly broke the right side brake cable AGAIN! The little ball on the end popped off. Same thing it did the first time. I hope I can get LICS to replace it this time instead of repairing it like they did before.

Waiting for my new Bilstein HD shocks and substitute air cleaner to arrive. Still have to put the interior back together and a million other little things. Maybe tomorrow.....

OK, I'll get the correct tank cap!!!! Jeez......:W
Thanks guys.

 

[Subfixer]

Paul here is the website.. If I remember correctly it was about 120.00 for the cable.. Fit was great and the look is correct..Also it's SS... Dave..

http://www.inlinetube.com/[/QUOTE]

Dave, Checked out thier website... They carry brake cables for 65 & up. No listing for the Drum brake 64. I'll give them a call and see if they can get them. Thanks for the llink.

 

[Viet Nam Vett]

VNV - I've been keeping up with your project and I do remember the 14.5" requirement for the shocks. (was also in Bair's instructions for the trailing arms). Thanks for the tip on the lock washer. I would have put it under the nut. (wonder why it goes under the bolt head.....besides the fact it's hard to get to)

Check The AIM......Bill explained that due to the roataion oh the shock bolt from the up and down movment of the shock.....that the rotation of the bolt will cause the nut to come off if the lock washer was under the nut.

When it's under the bolt this is cancelled out. I think I explained it correctly. It I didn't....some one correct me....

 

[Subfixer]

Check The AIM......Bill explained that due to the roataion oh the shock bolt from the up and down movment of the shock.....that the rotation of the bolt will cause the nut to come off if the lock washer was under the nut.

When it's under the bolt this is cancelled out. I think I explained it correctly. It didn't....some one correct me....

Sounds good to me. Makes sense. Thanks.