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Switch to Stainless Braided from Rubber Brake hose?

C

C3RVETTE

Guest
Good investment & wise choice to switch to the teflon-lined stainless brake hose,in a C3 vette?I figure since I just got the '79,everything should be bled & checked anyway,so maybe switch hoses then?
 
Why? What do you think you'll gain? Renewing the hoses is always a good idea, but SS/teflon is just more 'boy racer' overkill in my book. Nothing wrong with stock replacements.

Let the flames begin........
 
I just changed my C4 pads and hoses. Pads are now Hawk for the street. I went to braided stainless. I just feel better knowing that the hoses won't expand under the pressure of the hydrolic braking system. It might only be in my head but I'm sure my car stops faster and surer. While you are at it I changed all the bleeder nipples to the one person can bleed them kind. There is a little ball bearing and a spring inside so that bleeding brakes and changing fluid is now a one person job. I notice that the C6's are coming with slotted and drilled rotors. That may be my next mod.

Good Luck.
 
Vettehead Mikey said:
Why? What do you think you'll gain? Renewing the hoses is always a good idea, but SS/teflon is just more 'boy racer' overkill in my book. Nothing wrong with stock replacements.

Let the flames begin........
Supposedly,there is better braking & pedal feel,because the braided do not expand under brake pressure.Also I would think rubber ages & cracks,whereas stainless wouldnt inside or out.Thats what I assume the gain would be. "boy racer"?
 
C3RVETTE said:
Supposedly,there is better braking & pedal feel,because the braided do not expand under brake pressure.
Yup, that's the marketing ploy, and that's what sucks in most of the boy racers. Do a back to back blind test, and I doubt anyone would be able to tell the difference.

Yes, rubbers hoses do wear out, but they're not subject to sudden failure like the teflon type. There's a good reason that OEMs don't use them!

Do a search on google if you like, I did.

:beer
 
Do a search on google if you like, I did.
How would you like me to word that search?
 
C3RVETTE said:
How would you like me to word that search?
[font=Trebuchet MS, Arial, Helvetica][font=Arial, Helvetica]If you include the word 'failure' in the string, be prepared to stay up all night reading. If you don't include this word, the first site you'll see is Earl's who is the biggest manufacturer IIRC. Here's a quote from their site:

"We do not claim that any individual hose assembly is certifiable to D.O.T. standards and we therefore must advise you that they are sold to be used on off-road applications only. We make no claim of usability or suitability for highway or road use. Teflon brake hoses must be installed by an experienced professional mechanic. After installation each hose must be both clean and free flowing. There must be no possibility that the installed hose assemblies can stretch, crimp or kink under any conditions of wheel travel and steering angle. As with any hose installation, periodic inspection of hose condition is essential"

That's all I need to hear.

Hey, it's your car, do whatever you like! :upthumbs
[/font][/font]
 
Vettehead Mikey said:
[font=Trebuchet MS, Arial, Helvetica][font=Arial, Helvetica]If you include the word 'failure' in the string, be prepared to stay up all night reading. If you don't include this word, the first site you'll see is Earl's who is the biggest manufacturer IIRC. Here's a quote from their site:

"We do not claim that any individual hose assembly is certifiable to D.O.T. standards and we therefore must advise you that they are sold to be used on off-road applications only. We make no claim of usability or suitability for highway or road use. Teflon brake hoses must be installed by an experienced professional mechanic. After installation each hose must be both clean and free flowing. There must be no possibility that the installed hose assemblies can stretch, crimp or kink under any conditions of wheel travel and steering angle. As with any hose installation, periodic inspection of hose condition is essential"

That's all I need to hear.

Hey, it's your car, do whatever you like! :upthumbs
[/font][/font]
Kinda sounds like basic install common sense,and the standard cop-out by a company that doesnt back its products & doesnt want to get sued,for any reason.Ya think?:D
 
Cost and technology. Those two things should be kept in mind. When your car was produced was the technology out there at a reasonable price. Example: On any new car that I have ever bought the standard battery has lasted three years if I was lucky. When it failed I can buy a Die Hard for $50-70. Why don't they put those in the new cars??? Cost. Now I buy a Mainteance Free battery and I don't ever have to add water. Why wasn't this standard in '90.........Technology.

Today everything has a warning label on it. I think that started after the moron went to McD's and spilled hot coffee in her crotch and claimed that they didn't warn her.

They are making better products all the time and improving old ones.

Sure the Stock products were good. Maybe some things out there today are better.

You have to make up your own mind. As for me I feel much safer with Aftermarket brake pads and braided hoses.

Your call.
 
mauivette said:
Cost and technology. Those two things should be kept in mind. When your car was produced was the technology out there at a reasonable price. Example: On any new car that I have ever bought the standard battery has lasted three years if I was lucky. When it failed I can buy a Die Hard for $50-70. Why don't they put those in the new cars??? Cost. Now I buy a Mainteance Free battery and I don't ever have to add water. Why wasn't this standard in '90.........Technology.

Today everything has a warning label on it. I think that started after the moron went to McD's and spilled hot coffee in her crotch and claimed that they didn't warn her.

They are making better products all the time and improving old ones.

Sure the Stock products were good. Maybe some things out there today are better.

You have to make up your own mind. As for me I feel much safer with Aftermarket brake pads and braided hoses.

Your call.
That kinda was what I was asking for-the possibility of improving slightly,an already great ride,by using better & maybe safer technology.I just put in an Optima battery yesterday,not only becuase there are no fumes to get into the passenger compartment,but there is no potential leak possibilty to destroy the middle of the car behind my seat.And it was a mess in the battery compartment(I just got the '79)-- $99 at Costco!
 
C3RVETTE said:
That kinda was what I was asking for-the possibility of improving slightly,an already great ride,by using better & maybe safer technology.
Looks to me that you wanted somebody to agree with you, and not have an objective discussion on the matter. Have a nice day :w
 
Vettehead Mikey said:
Looks to me that you wanted somebody to agree with you, and not have an objective discussion on the matter. Have a nice day :w
Thank you! I wanted an opinion,I got yours and maui's,have a nice day,yourself! P.S.= Maybe someone else will be nice enough to give me another opinion.Thats why we're here,right?
 
Brake System Upgrades

Stainless Hoses Are O.k. The Problem Is With Extreme Susp. Travel, They Could Pull Off Their Crimp. Stainless Is Slippery. As Far As Drilled Rotors Are Concerned, They Are Not Much Help, Nor Do They Raise Line Pressure. It's Pressure Times Friction That Stops The Car. Ever Notice Drum Brake Cars Had Hub Caps With No Holes In The Wheels? The Only Reason For The Fancy Wheels Is To Cool Rotors, I.e., Rally Wheels. A Rotor Can Only Suck Air In From The Inside, Like A Turbo. Notice The 1989 Wheels? They Scoop Air Like A Waring Blender. The Thing That Really Stops A Car Fast Is The Output Of The Power Brake Unit. It Raise Line Pressure! There Is A Company, Power Brake Service In Long Beach, Ca. (562 436 4111) That Builds Dual Dia Pragm Boosters That Can Really Make The Car Stop On A Dime. They Even Modify Boosters For The Handicapped, Requiring Only A Light Touch Of The Brake To Stop A Van. They Can Also Supply Hydroboost Systems With Large Bore Masters To Stop Anything! The Hydroboost Runs Off The Power Steering Pump, And Requires No Vacuum, For You Guys Out There With Large Camshafts. Their Web Is Powerbrakeservice.net
 
C3RVETTE said:
Good investment & wise choice to switch to the teflon-lined stainless brake hose,in a C3 vette?I figure since I just got the '79,everything should be bled & checked anyway,so maybe switch hoses then?

Stainless/Teflon hoses are superior technology compared to the rubber hoses. They last longer and provide better brake response. As mauivette pointed out, the reason why you don't see them in most OEM applications is the cost. The price difference between rubber and Stainless/Teflon is pretty significant, and when you multiply that out by a few million cars, it gets to be a large chunk of change.

Just beware that the install on a C3 is not extraordinarily easy. It takes quite a bit of patience, and plenty of spare brake fluid to replace what runs out while you are trying to get the threads aligned.

Joe
 
For a street car don't waste your money. Go with the rubber hoses. They collapse over time but will last a while. Never had a problem with them.
 
coupeman said:
For a street car don't waste your money. Go with the rubber hoses. They collapse over time but will last a while. Never had a problem with them.

I have been running the stainless steel lines for several years and, frankly, I found no difference in "feel" from the rubber hoses that were replaced. I tend to agree with the gentleman who said a lot of this is just marketing hype, and I, too, have been dismayed by the aftermarket folks putting all sorts of warning stickers over what they put out there. In many cases I have found myself going back to stock, GM products, and the car runs better and is safer. As to brakes, the best thing I have found to do is simply to get the brakes bled more often than in most cars, and if the calipers are ever disconnected from the suspension (e.g., as in front wheel bearing repacking).

In the not too distant future I will be re-doing the brakes, and wonder if anyone has had any experience with the slotted rotors. I suspect this is another expensive gimmick that may have some value on the racetrack but is a problem is real world driving. The fact that the new Corvette, Porsches etc. might use these means nothing to me, as when you work with and modify cars a lot you judge what works based on what works for you and your car, not for the auto magazines who run through these cars and don't really have to live with them in the real world.

Sorry to be so blunt, but I suspect others have had similar experience with re-engineered products from the aftermarket.
--Chris Kennedy

Houston, Texas
 
Chris Kennedy said:
I have been running the stainless steel lines for several years and, frankly, I found no difference in "feel" from the rubber hoses that were replaced. I tend to agree with the gentleman who said a lot of this is just marketing hype, and I, too, have been dismayed by the aftermarket folks putting all sorts of warning stickers over what they put out there. In many cases I have found myself going back to stock, GM products, and the car runs better and is safer. As to brakes, the best thing I have found to do is simply to get the brakes bled more often than in most cars, and if the calipers are ever disconnected from the suspension (e.g., as in front wheel bearing repacking).

In the not too distant future I will be re-doing the brakes, and wonder if anyone has had any experience with the slotted rotors. I suspect this is another expensive gimmick that may have some value on the racetrack but is a problem is real world driving. The fact that the new Corvette, Porsches etc. might use these means nothing to me, as when you work with and modify cars a lot you judge what works based on what works for you and your car, not for the auto magazines who run through these cars and don't really have to live with them in the real world.

Sorry to be so blunt, but I suspect others have had similar experience with re-engineered products from the aftermarket.
--Chris Kennedy

Houston, Texas
I have heard,but not from personal experience,that the slotted rotors are good,and they're better than the just drilled rotors.I dont know about the combination of the two,but thats probly more expensive and unneeded.
 
Again, not needed for a street car. What good is having all the high priced race parts when you're driving to cruise nights and banging second gear off a light?

The GM parts have been excellant for the past 50 years on these cars and when they are properly tuned and setup yo don't need sloted rotors,braided hoses,O ring calipers,or glass springs. If you have a problem fix it right the first time instead of using a "Band Aid" approach. NOT trying to flame anyone here,it just seems we have a tract of "over-kill" at times.
 
coupeman said:
Again, not needed for a street car. What good is having all the high priced race parts when you're driving to cruise nights and banging second gear off a light?

The GM parts have been excellant for the past 50 years on these cars and when they are properly tuned and setup yo don't need sloted rotors,braided hoses,O ring calipers,or glass springs. If you have a problem fix it right the first time instead of using a "Band Aid" approach. NOT trying to flame anyone here,it just seems we have a tract of "over-kill" at times.
;stupid
smiley above should say "I agree" but that's not available on this web site (hint hint)

add to the list of overkill:

synthetic oils
octane boosters (for smog engines)
pertronics (perstranded) ignition
poly bushings
DOT 5 brake fluid

and my all time favourite:

sacrifical anodes for the aluminum expansion tank. ;LOL
 
The Marketers really earn their money! The whizbang slotted/cross-drilled/cryogenically-treated rotors really look good at the cruise-in, especially with the billet/machined/powder-coated/technicolor calipers that show through the forged/polished/plated/chromed big-window wheels, and if that's your preference, no problem. The fact remains that the stock disc brake system is outstanding technology, even after almost 40 years, for anything short of all-out road-racing use where rapid heat dissipation under repetitive max-G braking from over 100mph is essential.

For a non-ABS street-driven car, none of that stuff has any real-world stopping advantage over the stock system; what stops the car is the TIRES, not the brakes, in a one-stop situation. In a one-stop situation, any brake system that is capable of locking the wheels will stop the car just as short as any other system, whether it's drum, disc, or disc/drum. The tire interface at the road surface is what stops the car - the brakes only stop the wheels.
:beer
 

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