Synthetic oil for mid years anyone?

[mcditalia]

Anyone using synthetic oil for their mid year's? Is it advisable to change to synthetic oil if it wasn't used before?

 

[IH2LOSE]

Iwas running synthedic in my trans.I ended up with a nasty leak I could not get out with out rebuilding the entire trans.(not because of the oil) Any ways when I put in the new trans I used regular old oil (non synthedic) next oil change I am going to remove the mobil one synthedic in the motor and also put in regular oil.

I really dont know the benifits or non benifits SO out it comes

 

[JohnZ]

IMO, as few miles as we put on our classics, and changing the oil once a year, there's certainly no economic justification for the premium cost of synthetics; I've had lots of "toys" over the years, and have never used anything but the current API-spec conventional engine oils, trans and diff lubes. Have never had a lubrication-related failure, and don't expect to.

 

[00fxd]

I belive synthetic oil is overkill in a lot of applications, and because of it's ability to get everywhere it does tend to seep out through gaskets etc., BUT, after much soul searching, I run synthetic oil in everything I own including my lawnmower bucause it's the best. Any oil that that is be too slippery to break in new new piston rings [you must break in new engines with fossel oil in the crankcase] has got my vote. Slipperyness it's is what it's all about. Also, because the most engine wear occurs at cold start up, I like the way the more pourable @ cold temps synthetic gets thru the engine faster.

 

[Mac]

Having read the posts which SWCDuke did on lubrication over on that udder Forum, I now run a motor oil designed for diesels in my L82 because of the protective additives and detergent values. The slippery value of synthetics is great if you have solid lifters but can lead to problems for hydralic lifters.

 

[Andy.E]

I agree with John Z regarding the mileage issue. Aside from the fact that we don't change our oil that often anyway, if you're not putting a lot of miles on your car then then engine is getting minimal wear to start with.

Andy

 

[Mikey1]

Changing to synt can cause leaks...and we know that Chevys to leak already with conventional stuff.

Do you want to get an even bigger mark of excellence ? :cool

Back in the 6ties the oil quality even for the simple stuff was much less then it is today....therefore my car gets simple oil...and I change that every spring...almost no leaks... !

 

[JohnZ]

Any oil that that is be too slippery to break in new new piston rings [you must break in new engines with fossel oil in the crankcase] has got my vote. Slipperyness it's is what it's all about.

Not true - many new-car engines these days start out with synthetics (Viper, Corvette, and many others); moly-faced piston rings seat in five minutes or less, regardless of what type of oil you use, assuming the cylinder walls are properly finished.

"Slipperyness" isn't all it's cracked up to be, although the marketing guys love it because they can produce neat ads that almost anyone can relate to. What matters more is hydrodynamic film strength, which is what makes main and rod bearings work with zero metal-to-metal contact (most people don't know that those bearings never touch the journals, and the marketing guys count on it).

 

[WhalePirot]

Man, here we go.... Lots has been written (search the forum) on this and guys feel strongly, both ways.

Synthetics claim to be slicker, but are thinner. This aids CAFE and increases oil flow at low temperatures, start-up included. BUT....smaller particles go through smller orifaces; hence leaks wheretofore none existed. You may burn more oil than before. as the thinner oil slips past your oil ring

They can also clean out old deposits, at times in pieces too big to fit through holes designed for oil passage, causing problems. I'd pull a valve cover and inspect the lower section very carefully for cleanliness/deposits before switching, as a minimum.

I'd prefer Valvoline of the recommended weight and a good filter at every 3-5000 miles, or seasonally, depending on mileage driven and driving habits.
Mike

 

[00fxd]

Hey JohnZ [and others], I realize there are many good points for and against the synthetics. For a while Mercedes, about 1998, had conventional oil from new in the crankcase but the first oil change was to synthetic, presumably to ensure seating of the rings. I do understand that engine metal parts should not contact, metal transfer usually results. Like I said, it was after much soul searching [and reseach] to make the switch, and as expected there is some sepage but I can live with it. Whatever works......

 

[cntrhub]

Doesn't GM still use Mobil 1 exclusively in the Vettes? Pop the hood and read the sticker where they tell you what oil to use. As far as break-in oil, the Vettes come with Mobil 1 in the crankcase right from the factory. So much for that "break-in" theory about using plain old detergent oil.

 

[00fxd]

cntrhub, as JohnZ already mentioned, Corvettes, Vipers and many other high end cars come with sythetic in the crankcase. Talk around shop is they may have another way of bench seating the rings or as John mentioned, properly prepped cyl walls will do the job. Last I heard the break in theory still holds very true in most engine shops as a bit of insurance.
John's "hydrodynamic film strength" has got me thinking, again, my brain is starting to hurt, again. To he11 with it. I'm going for a drive with the top down.

 

[c5vetter]

I use Redline synthetics for all purposes in my 1963 Z06