Hey guys and ladies,
Thanks for all the good suggestions let me tell you what I did thought you would like to know.
I changed the thermostat, flushed the radiator,flushed the radiator again,changed the water pump which was no easy task
since some idiot put the a/c pulley on backwards and I had to pull that to. I also put water wetter in it all these things got it down to about 230 which to me still seemed high so I decided to yank the radiator and have it power flushed at a radiator shop and flow tested. anyway it is at the shop nowbut guess what I found...........between the radiator and the condenser there was a clear plastic bag I could'nt believe it of all things and a clear one so light still goes through the fins and you can't tell it is there till you yank it.
What a pain in the ass just think if I did'nt pay attention I could have fried the motor for a lousy 2 cent plastic bag.
Just another reason not to litter I guess I know if I see anyone tossing a plastic bag out their window they are gettin the bird for sure
I am going through the same or at least similar problem-being from Phoenix you expect to push the high temp envelope. I just bought the car about 4 months ago( prior to the summer heat). When it began to warm up- I started having problems:
1. The fan behind the radiator was not functioning -tried to check the obvious, ended up replacing two sensors and the fan itself with no success. Turned out to be a shorted wire which my brother-in law found. But it still ran hot (250+ sometimes close to 260 during testing in the garage)
2. Flushed the radiator, added waterwetter. Some help but not much.
3. Found out the heater core was leaking out through the A/C evaporator case (discovered only after leaking into passenger side carpet). Replaced the core twice-what an enjoyable project! On the first attempt a weld broke (before, during, after? instalation) so had the pleasure of doing it all over again.
Still seems to run warm -between 220 and 230. Not sure if this is reasonable considering the normal temps this time of year are 110-115.
Any thoughts, suggestions?
(Not sure what thermostat is in it but it seems to be working correctly. Haven't thought about the water pump-wondering if it will help)
I think the ambient temperature is not factored in about the high water temperature you are experiencing. If you have been driving this car around during nature's "hot flashes," (sorry ladies, I was always told nature was...."Female") and the engine never overheated so far, I would not worry about it. You have yet to be straded on the side of the road, caused by a, "boil over.....right?"
The second part about letting the car sit while running stationary... is not healthy. The fan helps. But basically, a car's engine is designed to be cooled by the radiator, and by driving through moving air. Most car radiators are small in size because they run efficiently with the designed capacity, material used, and moving air through the car's frontal openings.
For example... most motorcycles engines do not need radiators, because the moving air is the cooling agent.
I'm not trying to be smug here, but if you go back to your general high school physics, you will understand how an engine works. Not only that, but you will never be snowed again by a mechanic's explaination. You'll know the difference.
220 is fine for these cars. I get the same hot weather down here so I went with a stage II chip and 160 stat. Never break 185 cruisin or 210 in traffic. Heck of a difference in overall running performance with or without A/C on and I only run a single fan.
What difference is a change in the thermostat temperature going to make? Call me crazy, but I can think of none (as long as the one in the motor is working correctly.) Whether it is rated at 160, 180, etc. as long as the coolant temp remains above this temperature (which is certain) the thermostat is going to remain open and is not going to make it run cooler.
Please correct me if I am wrong-I have no problem changing out the thermostat after two heater cores that will be a piece of cake.
I'm not very mechanical but I asked the same question to the shop that was putting a 160 in for me. (I had already asked for one so I don't think it was sales hype). His answer was that the car will continue to heat up for a short while even after the thermostat opens until it stabalizes. This made sense to me especially after mine spiked to almost 230 once. Like you, I live in the Phoenix area, N. Scottsdale, and on days like today, 112, when I'm stuck in traffic I want all the cooling I can get. I also bought a Hypertech programmer to start the aux fan at 195 vs the standard 230 factory setting. I really like this car and plan to keep it for a long time, I figure the cooler the better.
My small research into different thermostat calibrations are for different anti-freezes. One boils at a lower temperature than another.
Logically, you want slow liquid movement. The theory being that the slower it moves through the radiator, the better chance it has of heat dissipation from the air flowing through the tubes and fins of the radiator. Therefore, eliminating the thermostat is a no-no.