TH350 Governor shift points

[GerryLP]

Even though I think I know alot about some things, I also think that I do not know a whole lot about other things. My tranny shift points are out (shifting too early) in automatice mode. I even have the modulator adjusted all the way, and it runs ok, but could use higher shift points. Otherwise, the tranny runs very strong.

Just paid for a rebuild 4,000 miles ago, and my shift points are not matching my peak rpm Hp points (not even close). I communicated with Fran Pepi, Drag Raicing News contributor, and he suggest governor kits from many manufacturers such as TCI, B&M, and others.

Has anyone had experience with shift points adjustments?

 

[tazdevl35]

OK to make this easy there are two things that will control shift points that are easy to adjust. First is the throttle valve cable that runs from the trans to the carb linkage. Release the lock on the carb end of the cable and adjust the cable sleeve as far rearward(towards the firewall ) as possible. Re-engage the lock the push the throttle lever all the way open. Now the Throttle valve cable is adjusted.Drive the vehicle, see if it shifts the way you like. If not, the next step is to remove the govenor from the side if the trans and using a govenor spring and weight kit from your local hot rod parts shop or trans shop recalibrate the govenor with new weights and springs,Its easy to do and most aftermarket kits supply directions (trans go, B&m etc). One thing to note, when you have the govenor assembly out make sure the gear at the end isnt apple cored(looks like an eaten apple core) and if it is , the gear or govenor will need to be replaced with a new one ,then recalibrate the new one. Hope this helps.



Taz :bang

 

[GerryLP]

Taz,

Sounds straight forward enough. I replaced the over drive cable recently when I noticed a sort of stretch and kink of the cable near the carburator hook-up end. I thought that this was causing the problem, for I was not getting WOT, but now I get WOT, but the shift points are out still.

So I will try to find a kit in town tomorrow. Thanks for the info!
I will look-out for the gear condition. Thanks!

 

[8T8T2]

Gerry,
Just out of curiosity at what speed are your shift points??

 

[GerryLP]

During low speed cruise around the neighborhood, the shift points are 1-2 ~ 15 MPH, 2-3 ~ 25 MPH.

If I gun it, then 1-2 is 25 MPH and 2-3 ~ 35 MPH. It seems to also affect the over drive (although I have adjusted the overdrive cable IAW the shop manual many times over -I even removed the monkey behind the wrench [me] and the result was the same).

 

[tazdevl35]

Can you hold manual low(1 on the shifter) till you decide to shift to second? You should be able to put it in 1 then accelerate to any speed up till red line then shift to 2 by hand when you want to. If you cant do this you may have another problem in the valve body. I have encountered this problem before and the most common problem has been the manual valve s-link is slightly bent not allowing the valve to block off the 1-2 passage to keep it in low. Also, a internally leaking valve body will cause this problem as well as a mis-machined manual valve bore or the manual valve itself.Let me know what you find when you try to hold it in low manualy and we can proceed from there.



Taz

 

[GerryLP]

Taz,

Manually I can shift the transmission, and it seems that no problems exists. The tranny will even make the tires bark from 2-3 (which I presume is not that hard since one is allowing the tranny to build up more pressure while the engine builds up Hp).

The sysmptom is that the engine still below 3,000 rpm and all gears have already shifted on an acceleration pull that one would do on a vacant neighborhood road approximately 1/8 of a mile (in automatic mode). Thus, the peak Hp is out of reach because there are no gears left to multiply the engine output.

Oh yes...it will get there on a longer road, but I am aiming at acceleration times (of course) on short distances. Yes, I can shift manually and make the engine and tranny meet that point, but I would prefer the tranny did all the work, so that I can maintain some sort of consistency (I don't have a shift light in the car ).

As power multiplication goes, the peak Hp is at a relatively higher rpm and the gears have already shifted, so the product of my car's engine power to the wheels is relatively lower or on the low side. The rear end is a 3.31:1, so that translates into a 8.34 (3.31 X 2.52 [1st gear]) revolutions on the engine for every one in the rear end, and then 5.03 (3.31 X 1.52 [2nd gear]) revolutions on the engine for every one on the rear end. Third should equal the rear end ratio -that is 3.31 engine revolutions for every one on the rear end. So if for example, below 3,000 RPM my car's engine is making 43 Hp, and at 4,000 the engine were to be making 59 Hp, then is easy to see how I am missing the oportunity to make the engine accelerate the car faster in relatively short distances.

I don't know. That's the way I understand it. I hope I explained the problem well...what do you think, governor? As I mentioned before, the modulator adjustment has reached the limit and it seems like its helping the governor hold the shifting until higher rpm's, but at the setting it is right now, it should not want to shift between 1 & 2 at all or should not shift 2 - 3 until the engine reaches 5,500 rpm (this is only a guess).