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Subfixer

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 28, 2002
Messages
634
Location
Groton, CT. USA
Corvette
1964 White Roadster
I finally took the 64 off the road to start doing what was going to be a front and rear suspension rebuild. After disassembling everything I could in the last 2 days, it became apparent that I need to do more. So far, I have removed the entire rear suspension and differential, and all of the front suspension.
After that was done, I started inspecting everything I could see. I need all new brake lines and fuel line (Bubba was here). Then I saw the "bad news". The left frame rail near the kickup is starting to rust through. So now the project is going to be a body-off so I can fix everything. looks like I won't be driving it in 2004.
Guess I have to start diving into the archives to see how to fix the frame most economically. This will not be an NCRS restoration, but i will get this car fixed, correctly, so it will last at least until I can't drive anymore.
I'll keep you all posted.
 
Yup, left rear kickup and endcaps are always the problem (passing lane side). Northern cars that have seen ANY winter usage in a salting zone during there life will show some degree of rust there. Drivers door gap should indicate how bad the frame is flexing. Options:
1) There ARE decent frame patch panels available, but don't be suprised if some welding shops turn the job down for fear of causing more harm than good.
2) Used frame.
3) Repro/aftermarket frame.
 
Kick-up itself seems to be OK, the real problem is at the end cap and about 4 inches forward of that. No problem with the door gap yet. I think I caught it in time before any secondary damage was done.
 
Subfixer,
Sorry to hear about your problems. Can you post some pictures? I fear I have the same issues but would like to see an example. I found a 1/4" hole in the area about 3" forward of the end - driver's side as well.

thanks,
brian
 
I'll try to get some pics up tonight. Just got a new computer over the holidays and it's not all set up quite yet.
 
Subfixer..

I did a frame repair on my 65 in the same area that you describe. I cut out the rust and welded in steel plate of comparable gauge. I made new end caps, but left a half moon opening in the bottom edge to help water drain out. I 'm pretty sure end caps are available ( Dr. Rebuild, I believe) or you can make them. I used a piece of a side from a filing cabinet. They're just used to keep debris from the wheel out of the frame rail. Ground the welds to smooth them out and painted the frame. No NCRS job, but not my intent. I built a solid, reliable driver, that like you said, will keep going until I can't drive anymore. Regards, Frank
 
Subfixer said:
................. So now the project is going to be a body-off so I can fix everything.

Come on in -- the water's fine.
;LOL
 
Thanks for the support guys..... Yeah 67H, I'm jumping in, but not nearly as far as you... WOW....
 
That Paragon kit looks like the hot setup to me. It will save you a lot of fabrication and will go up far enough to get past any inside rust that you won't see until you get the frame opened up. You can also cut their pieces to suit your needs.

Tom
 
Paul good luck on your journey.

Some advice I can give.

Take lots of photos,document what you are removing and how to reasemble it.I purchase large freezer bags and put the nuts and bolts and removed parts in the bag's along with photos and lable the bags.I also put in the bag the page from the aim manual when I think Ill need it.

I then put the bags and parts in large plastic container my wife purchased for me .(these are large stackable containers like tupperware)

I also keep a running list of what parts I need or I am going to need.And I always purchase in bulk to take advantage of large order discounts or free shipping.A little carefull planning here and You would be suprized how much you can save by taking advantage of the discounts.

Good Luck
 
I've looked at the replacement sections as well, and this is probably the route I will take. I fugure on spot welding some supports to the original frame before I cut the section out so everything stays in alignment.
Right now, I'm shopping around for a cherry picker engine hoist that will lift the body off.
Also, if there is anyone in the Northeast, New England area, that has a body dolly they are no longer using, that would save me some time and $ also.
 

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