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Thermoglass Exhaust Wrap

Buckskin7T7V

Well-known member
Joined
May 18, 2001
Messages
144
Location
Ca US
Corvette
1977 Buckskin
Bobchad and I have been discussing the heat building problem on our vette's. I have heard that Thermoglass Exhaust Wrap will cool things down and help performance. I have used it small Honda two cylinder engines mounted in vans. What if any, is the downside to using the wrap?:confused
 
I'm assuming (dangerous) that you have headers? Or perhaps that you want to wrap the exhaust pipes that run under the car? Either way, the #1 problem is a bothersome little word: RUST! Many header manufacturers will consider the warranty "null and void" if any wrap is used on their parts. Yes, the wrap holds in heat better than a non-wrapped system, but it will also hold in any moisture that it picks up. My suggestion would be to install aftermarket heat shielding. There are some specifically designed to go on the underside of your carriage.

I would also suggest removing your carpet and sticking a light under your car. That way you can see if there are any openings that need to be closed off. There's a flexible grommet filler made by Eastwood that would aid in sealing off these little cracks. If the interior insulation is already worn through, consider aftermarket or repo pieces. I'd personally go with the aftermarket, since heat shieding, like everything else, has also advanced. The price difference should not be that far off, either.

Other places to use heat shield would be the area between the splash shield and the body, near the manifold exhaust. The transmission tunnel is also paramount, especially if you have that old insulation up there. The repo pieces would require you to either drop the tranny or cut the insulation to fit, thereby hampering it's effectiveness. With the aftermarket piece, you can "cut-to-fit" and mount it on places where the stock piece doesn't cover. Near the exterior footwells and such. Drop the driveshaft and you can also mount the stuff in that location, too. Just remember to secure it, so it doesn't fall and become encased around the driveshaft while your cruisin'. :eek Blind rivets would probably be the best way to supplement industrial-strength adhesive.

Hope this advice helps. :)

--Bullitt
 
Go with coated headers!!

Do yourself the favor. I have thermotec exhaust wrap on my headers and it does cut down the heat noticably. BUT they are messy. I have had to work on the heads, adjusting valves etc, and oil has spilled on them and it looks like you blew your engine when you drive it. Its embarasing!! Also one of the hoses on my power steering went south and fluid got all over the header wrap and smoked for about a week.

If I knew this was going to happen I would have gotten the coated headers, they also look a heck of alot nicer.Save yourself the trouble and shell out those few extra bucks.

Frank
 
I haven't had problems with cabin heat but I do use the wrap to protect the starter area only. It's done a good job and easy to replace if necessary.:w
 
Thanks guys.
I have the stock exhaust headers. (cast iron) I know what you mean about getting oil on the wrap stuff. I installed new carpet and heat padding under the carpet. I might try some shielding on the foot rest area under the gas, brake and clutch pedals. I know some of the heat comes from the moon roofs and they do have snap in liners for them. The car is fun to drive, except for the hot foot. Summers here can get up to 112 degrees in the shade and I don't like driving in the shade. Can not ever get out of first gear. Thanks again and all the advice is appreciated.
 
I tried to grow-up in Fresno. Didn't work. I have lived in the San Francisco area for the past 35 years.The car stayed cool up there.
I believe the 77 weighed in at 3650 (curb weight). When we get done with all of added insulation, it will weigh 5000 lbs. Cool, but SLOW.
 
I still call SF home, despite having left ther in 78. Would like ot go back, just have gotten used to a lifestyle in Atlanta that I would never be able to match there. That and the politics have gotten a little too socialist for me.

Post what you do and I'll do the same and lets see if we can cool the interior of these beasts off. I just pulled all the back side trim and will be pulling the far back carpet for replacement over the next 10 days. After that, the front. The attempts to refelct the heat will become more important.

I've noticed the slow part too and am itching to beef up the HP. Unfortunately, comon sense says to get it up to spped and then try to dial up the juice.

Bob
 
Bob,
I came across this in my search for our problem.
http://www.coolandquiet.com/success.cfm
Tell me what you think. It is less expensive than KoolMat. It would take two or three sheets.
Space shuttle tiles would work, but they are $15.00 a sq in.
 
Buckskin,

Another alternative, though I note that it is 3/4 inch thick. I wonder if this will be a problem? The KoolMat product advertises to be only .070 inches thick and may be easier to work with.

Bob
 
I am sorry Bob, it is the "Zero Clearance" material I was referring to. http://www.coolandquiet.com/product_detail.cfm?Prod=4

ZeroClearance is a thin thermal and acoustic insulator made from fiberglass and polyester with an aluminum facing. A pressure sensitive adhesive makes permanent application easy, especially where space is at a premium or attachment methods are limited.
 
Has anyone used this product

If anyone has used this product and documented their approach to the installation, please let me know. I would like to include your solution to heat/noise problems in the future Corvette Upgrades and Fixes book.

Louie
 
That would be great. I made some inquiries with Lydall, Inc (makers of the Cool and Quiet products) about creating some Corvette specific kits. I will let you know if I hear anything before you dive into the project.

Louie
 
I put my stock roofs back on....Helped a ton. The glass tops let to much heat in. I also put a piece of paper between the hood and air intake. With the hood closed, I could pull the paper through. I replaced the gasket. Things are starting to cool down. I looked in the assembly manual for 76 and 77. There is a heat and splash shield installation that is mounted were your feet go. The angled piece. They mount to the outside, with a air gap. I looked at my 77 and there is no shields or mounting bolt holes for the shields. Do you guys have them on your vet?
 
Material Discount

Sometime after the 10th of June (give or take a few days) I should have secured a discount on the "Cool and Quiet" materials for members of CAC. I will post contact information and order information as soon as I have it finalized. Maybe we can save a few $$$$$

Louie
 
My birthday. I will wait to hear from you.
Thanks
 
55
 

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