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Throttle Body Coolant Bypass installation notes

S

Skant

Guest
Yesterday morning, I did the coolant bypass mod on my 1996 LT4. I believe the LT1 and LT4 have the same throttle body, so my experience should be similar to others with the same or close year.

First off, I did search and read all of the information about doing this on these forums. In spite of what I've read, I purchased the bypass kit from MidAmerica Designs. It just didn't seem possible to me that they could be selling a kit which didn't fit at all, and I figured for $20 (plus I was buying other stuff I needed from them anyway), I'd rather have the most official method of doing it.

Just to make it clear to anyone else who wants to do this mod... their kit does _not_ fit. It doesn't even come close to fiitting. It's not like it's a just a poor fit... the piping is nearly twice as large as the hose it needs to fit into. It was clearly meant for a different application.


Okay... here's how I did it.

First, you need to locate the coolant hoses. Not quite as simple as it may seem because there's a lot of hoses running around that area and several large vacuum lines also plugged into the throttle body that don't look much different from coolant lines. I had nightmare visions of getting it wrong and plugging a coolant line into a vacuum line and then starting the car...

One of the coolant lines is on the driver's side of the throttle body. This one is fairly obvious. It connects to a hose which routes under the air intake tube to a three way pipe fitting on the passenger's side of the radiatior.

This hose has a clamp on it. Stuff as much rag as you can under the fitting (to soak up the relatively small amount of coolant that will come out of the line). Use pliers to move the clamp away, and then remove the hose from the fitting.

I found this a little easier said than done. The hose didn't want to budge. I need to use grippers to twist the hose (to break its bond) and then leverage against the throttle body itself to develop enough force to pull the hose off.

More than a few drops of coolant came out of the tube. With the high mounted reservoir, I was wondering if all the coolant in the whole system would come out... I was a little worried that maybe I was expected to just know I needed to release pressure somewhere in the system before doing this. But no... it's not a problem. It did, however, let out enough coolant to soak the first rag, and I needed to replace it with a second.. and then ultimately a third to keep it from soaking enough to drip through.

Check on it every so often. More coolant will dribble out of this fitting as you work with the other side. And it must not be allowed to soak through the rag and drip onto the optispark which is almost immediately below!


The other coolant line is more difficult to locate, access, and remove.

It is located on the passenger side of the throttle body. You will need to remove the passenger side fuel rail cover (the plastic cover that you remove by just popping it out). There are three similar looking hoses connected to that side of the throttle body. The upper two are large vacuum lines. Remove these by hand (it's easy). You will need them out of the way. The lowest of the three is the coolant line. It can be positively identified because it's the only hose with a clamp on it... just like the other side. It is connected to a very short (~3-4 inch) hose that turns 90 degrees to connect to a metal tube which runs along the passenger side valve cover.

You need to remove this short hose completely from both ends. This is not easy. To remove the throttle body side, use pliers to open the clamp and then move it toward the throttle body and onto the fitting. I found that it was impossible to move the clamp along the hose because of its short length and the 90 degree bend... however, the way the base of the fitting is shaped, the clamp will be held away from the hose if the clamp is placed there against the throttle body. Getting the hose off the fitting is not very easy because of how much it has to flex because the fitting on the other side of the bend is right there interfering with its movement.

Once that end was off, I needed to remove the clamp on the other side (that's on the pipe that runs along the valve cover). This was the most difficult task of all. There's a conduit of wires running along side it that needs to be carefully pulled away to provide at least a little clearance. The clamp was upsidedown and nearly impossible to reach. It didn't want to release. It didn't want to move. It didn't want to be rotated.

Ultimately, I was able to use needle nose pliers and a desperate amount of force (you know... the kind that comes as you hiss under your breath 'This bolt is coming off DAMMIT!!!) to finally rotate the clamp enough that I could then access it from the top and pull it down the hose away from the fitting.

Mind you, I thought about using a dremel or some other cutting mechanism to just slice it off. However, a trunk of wires and vacuum lines are right next to it and serve to interfere with accessing it at all. One wrong move and...

Okay... the task was easy from this point. Now that I finally had the &$&#&# little hose off... all that needed to be done was connect the hose that was originally going to the passenger side fitting directly to the metal tube that runs along the valve cover... thusly bypassing the throttlebody.

This fitting is slightly smaller than the one on the other side. However, I read on these forums that others had connected it directly this way. I made sure to tighten the new clamp (I used a screw type clamp) a little extra to make sure it squeezed the hose down around the slightly smaller fitting.

I reduced the length of the hose by some inches since it didn't have as far to reach anymore... and if I had left its whole length, the hose's path would have pushed it against the air intake tube.

I took another car over to Kragen's to pick up some caps to cap off the throttle body fittings. You find them in the 'Help!' stuff. I bought a variety of sizes but ended up using the 5/16" and 3/8".


After all that, I checked under the car and noticed a 2 inch diameter puddle of orange fluid. I'm confused by that because I had rags under the fittings and hoses and could find no evidence of them having dripped through or anything... There was no wetness on the surfaces immediately under any of these fittings. So I don't know what happened there.

I was quite worried I might has messed up somewhat I couldn't figure out and drenched the optispark. But I took it for a spin... and it all seems fine. Kept checking around the fittings... totally dry. The 3/8" cap had popped off somehow during the test drive... so I put a 5/16" cap in its place which was veeery tight to get on... but the new one is not gonna pop off.

So it looks like it worked out.

Anyway... I guess this is pretty long winded for what most of you guys probably find to be a really simple operation. Maybe I'm just a really poor mechanic... I didn't find it incredibly difficult, but I did have some difficulties with stubborn old parts that didn't want to let go...and it took me longer than the time that had been described by others. Mostly because of that upsidedown clamp I couldn't reach.

Hope this detailed description helps someone.

- Skant
 
Thanks Skant. I've been pessimistic about this operation and afraid to order the kit because what if it doesn't fit the LT4, etc. I read many descriptions and seen photos that seem to0 over-simplified for someone who has not done it yet, so I REALLY appreciate this. I'm ready to go!!!
Chetzki
 
OUTSTANDING blow by blow description skant, thankyou.:upthumbs
 
Skant said:
... remove the hose from the fitting.

I found this a little easier said than done.
It's always that way with coolant hoses that have been in place for just about any length of time. That's why they always tell you to just slice 'em. :L

I hear what you're saying about it being too close in there to easily do that (slice the hose). ;)
 
I've done the by-pass on every Vette I've owned. Alot of people say that it doesn't do anything for you, but I believe that it does. There are other mods. that should be done in conjunction with the by-pass for optimum, cool entering air temperatures. Here is what I recommend.

1. 160 degree Thermostat

2. Aftermarket Mass Air Flow Ends, or Sensor 1000-1200 cfm

3. Temperature Adjustable Fan Activation Switch

The 160 degree theremostat will drop your engine operating temperature at least 20 degrees. I average 174 degrees at 90 degrees ambient air temperature.

Mass air flow ends made of a material other than metal. The sensor housing needs to be able to dissapate heat rapidly. The stock housing conducts heat and defeats the purpose. The inlet air picks up heat off the stock sensor, thus heating the inlet air.

Fan activation switch enables you to bring your fans on sooner. I keep mine set for 180 degrees. If I'm in stop and go traffic, I never exceed 180 degrees. This prolongs engine life.

Let's just say the throttlebody without the coolant by-pass flows .5 gpm with an entering water temperature of 220 degrees and a leaving water temperature of 200 degrees @ 800cfm of 100 degree entering air.

Calc.

(.5 gpm x 220 EWT - 200 LWT) (500) = 5000 btuh


Therefore:

5000 btuh
-------------- = 5.78 degree delta T

800cfm (1.08)

What this means is you have picked up almost 6 degrees off your throttlebody without the coolant by-pass. Instead of 100 degree entering air, you are now 105.78 degrees entering air for combustion that is less oxygen rich. Could be a big difference on a hot day at the track.
 
They sent you the wrong kit. That happened to me with Mid America when I owned my C4. The kit shown for the C4 on page 4-24 catalog 104A looks exactly like my C5 kit. The kit for the C5 shown on page 5-32 is not the C5 kit that fits, and is the kit they sent you. I think the LT4 kit is exactly like my C5 kit from your description. It is smaller pipe +/- 1/4" each end. I didn't have to cut any hose, exact fit both sides. I called them and told them they sent me the wrong one, even though the plastic bag was labled correctly. They sent out a new one, but wanted the old one back, lol! I didn't send it back, at that point I didn't want to deal with it anymore.
 
Forget the kit and do it like that. It's logical plumbing. The air is going through there at warp speed and can't heat up much but it keeps the area on top cooler and that's good.
 
Skant said:
Yesterday morning, I did the coolant bypass mod on my 1996 LT4. I believe the LT1 and LT4 have the same throttle body, so my experience should be similar to others with the same or close year.

First off, I did search and read all of the information about doing this on these forums. In spite of what I've read, I purchased the bypass kit from MidAmerica Designs. It just didn't seem possible to me that they could be selling a kit which didn't fit at all, and I figured for $20 (plus I was buying other stuff I needed from them anyway), I'd rather have the most official method of doing it.

Just to make it clear to anyone else who wants to do this mod... their kit does _not_ fit. It doesn't even come close to fiitting. It's not like it's a just a poor fit... the piping is nearly twice as large as the hose it needs to fit into. It was clearly meant for a different application.


Okay... here's how I did it.

First, you need to locate the coolant hoses. Not quite as simple as it may seem because there's a lot of hoses running around that area and several large vacuum lines also plugged into the throttle body that don't look much different from coolant lines. I had nightmare visions of getting it wrong and plugging a coolant line into a vacuum line and then starting the car...

One of the coolant lines is on the driver's side of the throttle body. This one is fairly obvious. It connects to a hose which routes under the air intake tube to a three way pipe fitting on the passenger's side of the radiatior.

This hose has a clamp on it. Stuff as much rag as you can under the fitting (to soak up the relatively small amount of coolant that will come out of the line). Use pliers to move the clamp away, and then remove the hose from the fitting.

I found this a little easier said than done. The hose didn't want to budge. I need to use grippers to twist the hose (to break its bond) and then leverage against the throttle body itself to develop enough force to pull the hose off.

More than a few drops of coolant came out of the tube. With the high mounted reservoir, I was wondering if all the coolant in the whole system would come out... I was a little worried that maybe I was expected to just know I needed to release pressure somewhere in the system before doing this. But no... it's not a problem. It did, however, let out enough coolant to soak the first rag, and I needed to replace it with a second.. and then ultimately a third to keep it from soaking enough to drip through.

Check on it every so often. More coolant will dribble out of this fitting as you work with the other side. And it must not be allowed to soak through the rag and drip onto the optispark which is almost immediately below!


The other coolant line is more difficult to locate, access, and remove.

It is located on the passenger side of the throttle body. You will need to remove the passenger side fuel rail cover (the plastic cover that you remove by just popping it out). There are three similar looking hoses connected to that side of the throttle body. The upper two are large vacuum lines. Remove these by hand (it's easy). You will need them out of the way. The lowest of the three is the coolant line. It can be positively identified because it's the only hose with a clamp on it... just like the other side. It is connected to a very short (~3-4 inch) hose that turns 90 degrees to connect to a metal tube which runs along the passenger side valve cover.

You need to remove this short hose completely from both ends. This is not easy. To remove the throttle body side, use pliers to open the clamp and then move it toward the throttle body and onto the fitting. I found that it was impossible to move the clamp along the hose because of its short length and the 90 degree bend... however, the way the base of the fitting is shaped, the clamp will be held away from the hose if the clamp is placed there against the throttle body. Getting the hose off the fitting is not very easy because of how much it has to flex because the fitting on the other side of the bend is right there interfering with its movement.

Once that end was off, I needed to remove the clamp on the other side (that's on the pipe that runs along the valve cover). This was the most difficult task of all. There's a conduit of wires running along side it that needs to be carefully pulled away to provide at least a little clearance. The clamp was upsidedown and nearly impossible to reach. It didn't want to release. It didn't want to move. It didn't want to be rotated.

Ultimately, I was able to use needle nose pliers and a desperate amount of force (you know... the kind that comes as you hiss under your breath 'This bolt is coming off DAMMIT!!!) to finally rotate the clamp enough that I could then access it from the top and pull it down the hose away from the fitting.

Mind you, I thought about using a dremel or some other cutting mechanism to just slice it off. However, a trunk of wires and vacuum lines are right next to it and serve to interfere with accessing it at all. One wrong move and...

Okay... the task was easy from this point. Now that I finally had the &$&#&# little hose off... all that needed to be done was connect the hose that was originally going to the passenger side fitting directly to the metal tube that runs along the valve cover... thusly bypassing the throttlebody.

This fitting is slightly smaller than the one on the other side. However, I read on these forums that others had connected it directly this way. I made sure to tighten the new clamp (I used a screw type clamp) a little extra to make sure it squeezed the hose down around the slightly smaller fitting.

I reduced the length of the hose by some inches since it didn't have as far to reach anymore... and if I had left its whole length, the hose's path would have pushed it against the air intake tube.

I took another car over to Kragen's to pick up some caps to cap off the throttle body fittings. You find them in the 'Help!' stuff. I bought a variety of sizes but ended up using the 5/16" and 3/8".


After all that, I checked under the car and noticed a 2 inch diameter puddle of orange fluid. I'm confused by that because I had rags under the fittings and hoses and could find no evidence of them having dripped through or anything... There was no wetness on the surfaces immediately under any of these fittings. So I don't know what happened there.

I was quite worried I might has messed up somewhat I couldn't figure out and drenched the optispark. But I took it for a spin... and it all seems fine. Kept checking around the fittings... totally dry. The 3/8" cap had popped off somehow during the test drive... so I put a 5/16" cap in its place which was veeery tight to get on... but the new one is not gonna pop off.

So it looks like it worked out.

Anyway... I guess this is pretty long winded for what most of you guys probably find to be a really simple operation. Maybe I'm just a really poor mechanic... I didn't find it incredibly difficult, but I did have some difficulties with stubborn old parts that didn't want to let go...and it took me longer than the time that had been described by others. Mostly because of that upsidedown clamp I couldn't reach.

Hope this detailed description helps someone.

- Skant

So after all that, what was the difference in performance?
 
I've seen a back to back dyno pull that showed... I think it was a 7 hp increase from this mod. That's not enough to be felt by the seat of the pants on a car with nearly 400 ponies. So I can't tell you what it did for performance.

I can tell you that it dramatically effects the heat under the hood. I can put my hand on the intake while it's running now. So, if nothing else, it cools down the engine components... which has gotta help something... if only life span.

I've seen arguments that suggest the increase in horsepower would be negligible (less than 1hp). I've seen results that show it adds a little. I believe that it does add a little. It's not much, but it's free, and it makes things run noticably cooler... so it's helpful one way or another.

I've done this along with a number of other mods at around the same time. So all I can say is... the combination of the things I've done had a dramatic effect. The car is pulling 0-60mph in 4.3 seconds now... in spite of weak tires. But I can't say for sure how much any particular piece did on its own.

- Skant
 
I did mine when the short hose sprung a leak. I just removed it, unplug the longer section from the throttle body and hooked it to the intake. I saw no difference in my ET or MPH. Matter of fact I ran my 12.9 with it hooked up to the throttle body.
 
CKA_Racing said:
... saw no difference in ET or MPH.
I don't think one would necessarily see that much of an improvement; it just makes things cooler under the hood, and therefore easier to work around. :D
 
Ken said:
I don't think one would necessarily see that much of an improvement; it just makes things cooler under the hood, and therefore easier to work around. :D
yup, i agree. I can actually blip the throttle plate by hand without gloves.
 
I can't tell you how many times I've laid hands on the throttle body, only to immediately draw back in pain, even after I bypassed the coolant flow! It still gets plenty warm to the touch. :L
 
That run down of the procedure was fantastic but I remember seeing pictures of the modification.Does anybody remember this or did I dream it up?....I'm planning to do this mod real soon.I took my vette out of storage just today and I would like to do the mod before anything else.....TIA....P.S...I love this site :beer
 
And DONT BUY The kit on Ebay either. Its garbage.
Get the plugs/caps at Auto Zone and use the existing hose.
Its a fast and easy mod!

Rain
 
i did the cut lid K&N 160 stat descreened the MAF and TB Bypass in 1 sitting and notice a more crisp throttle response. it's nice at the track so you can put an ice bag on top to keep the plenum cool :D

you LT1/4 guys be careful doing that ;)
 
Hmmm....... good timing on this thread rising back to the top, I am having 160 t-stat & TC bypass questions, i posted a thread about my cooling probs. after visiting the dealer. The confusion I have is the dealer sez my erratic temps and mediocre perfomance is related to that 160 t-stat. hmmmm. One thing i know is that the vette certainly is running differently as when I took it to them, doesnt kick down and get full power etc...... specially since I had them put in new plugs also.

I did not doo the TC Bypass, just had them put in a 160 since i did the manifold oil leak fix, Would anyone not doo it all over again?? I want to keep the vette forever, so if it prolongs engine life that is good, but i dont like this perfomance sacrifice, i have the dealer putting back in the t-stat they recommend and they are saving it for me, sooooo, i am thinking once i finally get ready (Or convinced) to doo the TB bypass & 160 swap I might Re-doo it IF it will not hurt my perfomance.

edit, thanks for the pic warren, that makes it very simple!!
 
Slim i don't know what to tell you except that i wouldn't want a dealer work on my car unless it was warrenty work only. find a local shop and build a relationship with and they will be able to do the mods you want and make them work unlike a parts changer from a dealer.

i know a few of my FBody friends with LT1's say they run best at 180 or so on the water. my L98 car runs strongest at 130 water temp. cruising i have 160 degree water temp usually.

good luck finding whats wrong with it!


Idaho Slim said:
Hmmm....... good timing on this thread rising back to the top, I am having 160 t-stat & TC bypass questions, i posted a thread about my cooling probs. after visiting the dealer. The confusion I have is the dealer sez my erratic temps and mediocre perfomance is related to that 160 t-stat. hmmmm. One thing i know is that the vette certainly is running differently as when I took it to them, doesnt kick down and get full power etc...... specially since I had them put in new plugs also.

I did not doo the TC Bypass, just had them put in a 160 since i did the manifold oil leak fix, Would anyone not doo it all over again?? I want to keep the vette forever, so if it prolongs engine life that is good, but i dont like this perfomance sacrifice, i have the dealer putting back in the t-stat they recommend and they are saving it for me, sooooo, i am thinking once i finally get ready (Or convinced) to doo the TB bypass & 160 swap I might Re-doo it IF it will not hurt my perfomance.
 

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